9 replies to this topic

[CBJ805T]

Hi, 

 

next on the list is the front end - Front wings, front Panel and A-Panels. 

 

My current plan was to dry fit the front wings and Front panel along with the bonnet and get all the gaps correct, then fit the A panels

 

Is this the way you'd go?

 

Do I need to fit the front subframe? or can I just align and clamp the panels in free air 

 

for my first trial fit, the actual fit was terrible, so I've got some fettling to do. I was planning to ignore the A-panels and doors etc until this front end was all sorted, but do I need to look at all of these panels in one go, before welding anything in place? 

 

any tips or tricks appreciated 

 

Chris 

[Gaz66]

Fit front subframe and bolt front panel to it using all new mounts (if rubber mounted)
This will give you a solid datum at the front and back and then fill the void with panels 👍

[stuart bowes]

might be an idea to start with the A-panel to door gap

 

bolt the doors back on and adjust them best you can for good gaps, then fit the new A panels with a good gap along that edge of the door

 

then the front panel on (see above) and fit the wings in between

[Tupers]

Get the doors on and gapped to the quarters and steps first then to A panels.

Once they’re in place permanently you should fit the front subframe and start aligning the wings, bonnet and front panel.

[CBJ805T]

Thanks all - do doors need reskinning first  - if all of the above is ok to do on the original skins can I leave the reskinning until later? 

Edited by CBJ805T, 24 September 2025 - 02:43 PM.

[sonikk4]

You can reskin the doors later and adjust as required. If you want £1 coin gaps then some 3.2mm TIG steel filler rods will do the job nicely

[Ethel]

Working from the back to the front will carry dimensional errors off the front in to thin air. Even so, fit up everything before attaching it permanently. It's the curves where errors creep in. Under flex them & the fit will be too long & lacking in height, over flex.....

 

Fit the bonnet & use it as a reference for the back of the wing to work on the wing to screen scuttle fit. Have a good straight edge to align the A panel external seam up to the roof. Once you've got the rear of the wing clamped up nicely, you'll have a good target for the A panel between it & the door.

 

It would help to take the weight of the door off the hinge panel to  stop it flexing. Find some packing for the bottom edge, or hang / clamp the top off the gutter - or you could fashion a bit of wood to stand in for the door's front edge.

[CBJ805T]

Hi all, Managed to spend some time in the garage yesterday, fitting the passenger door and working forwards. 

 

The fit is still horrible - but I'm going to fit the front subframe as well and look at it all again before pestering you on it. 

 

However....bit of a side bar - the door fit was also not great. 

 

I had to fit 3 spacers to the bottom hinge to prevent the door from catching at the opposite side - would you recommend fitting the door catch / stay etc when trial fitting?

 

I also found that the bottom of the door turned in significantly at the bottom - Is this normal? If not, what do people do to address this?

 

https://www.amazon.c...VNNDS0DPU4ZeYOB

 

the doors skins will be replaced, but this is the fit all round 

 

Bottom of A-panel - https://www.amazon.c...zr6hqSXoRlETkOL

 

Top of A-Panel - https://www.amazon.c...zr6hqSXoRlETkOL

 

opposite end - https://www.amazon.c...ZVBRMtT2zPGjMfv

[Ethel]

Fit the door seals, if they're not fitted. It's easy to squeeze in the A posts too much if you have a fits where it touches approach to welding.

[Homersimpson]

I've done loads of these over the years, both genuine panels and non genuine.

 

The way I did it was:

 

1. Repair the doors and a posts

2. Fit the a panels, set the door gaps and weld the a panel top and bottom so its fixed.

3. Bolt the front panel to the subframe 

4. Fit the bonnet and get the gap as good as you can at the back.

5. Position the wing and tack the rear corner by the bonnet and front corner by the bonnet to the front panel to set the gap by the bonnet. Repeat for the other side.

6. Pull the wing to the a panel with mole grips with a wide head.

7. Recheck the bonnet gap.

8. Weld the wing to the inner wing along the top.

9. Weld the apanel to the wing.

10. Weld the front panel ears to the inner wing.

11. Clamp the front panel to the wing and weld, working your way from inside (nearest the inner wing) to out tends to help.

12. Dont forget the little angled strengthening pieces welded to the wing lip where it joins the apanel which add quite a bit of strength to the joint.

 

If things aren't going right then stop and take a step back, sometimes you get a bad panel, sometime moving something slightly makes a big difference to the fit elsewhere..

 

It should be possible to get a reasonable fit even with patten panels without major reworking, if you have to cut panels up and extend or shorten them chances are that either the panel is wrong made or your trying to achieve a far better fit than the cars had when new.

 

The last point above is important as these cars had poor gaps from new and try to get them perfect is a time consuming and generally unnecessary endeavor, to top is that the gaps are more critical on light coloured cars than dark coloured ones.  Dark colours hide panel gaps but show dents more!