Hi folks, just bought a radiator upgrade to get rid of the dreaded leaky clip in fan switch and I'm now at the stage of refitting the bottom hose.
Has anyone found any way to refit the hose on a SPI because I'm totally beat on this.
I've tried with the radiator one piece shroud on the rad and off but failed on both.
I've put the hose on the rad with the shroud off and then can not get the shroud over the fan to refit.
With the shroud on I can just reach the bottom hose from the top but not enough to wiggle it on the rad never mind tighten the clip.
After 2 days and very bruised hands I'm very near to giving up so any suggestions would be great.
Spi Bottom Hose Refit Problem
Best Answer Mixagon , 09 October 2025 - 12:58 PM
At last job done, I managed to get the bottom hose onto the new rad by sliding the rad two thirds down and lifting and fitting the hose then lowering the rad fully down. I taped rubber matting on both sides of rad to prevent damage while fiddling and re fitting the cowling which was a very tight.
I've learned a lot while all I wanted to do was put antifreeze in for winter.
The bottom auxiliary fan switch wouldn't stop leaking even with a new switch and rubber seal and clip fitted so I changed the rad for a screw in type switch which is much easier for future drains and coolant tight.
The radiator cap fitted was the wrong type because it seems the SPI is a pressurised system that needs a double seal cap which allows it to suck coolant back from the expansion tank under the wing when it cools down. The expansion tank sits on the shock mount but mine wasn't fitted correctly, it had to come off anyway to drain the rusty water out and put 500mm of coolant in it. The spi tanks which are now obsolete (luckily mine was good) has no filler cap on it just one small outlet pipe with which to drain and refill which is very time consuming.
Anyway job done and cooling system working as it should, lots more to sort out still though.
Thanks for all replies.
#1
Posted 30 September 2025 - 04:57 PM
#2
Posted 30 September 2025 - 09:07 PM
#3
Posted 30 September 2025 - 09:08 PM
#4
Posted 01 October 2025 - 07:28 AM
Thanks for replies, the problem is I can't quite reach the bottom hose to slide it on the rad, I've removed all I can but there's no room for my hand to get low enough to get a hold on the hose.
I've fitted lots of hoses on various vehicles in my time and I'm not a big chunky guy, just the opposite really weighing 79kg and slim build but I can not reach that bottom hose. The other three outlets of the spi hose itself are actually in the way of my hand/arm, even with baby oil on my arm I can't get low enough and after repeated tries my skin is starting to break and bruise.
After much thought and when my arm recovers enough to try again I'm thinking of taking the hose fully out of the car and fitting to the rad and trying to put the rad back in with hose attached ??? anyone tried this.
Or cutting some off the bottom corner of the shroud to make more room or maybe just denting the corner in a little ?
#5
Posted 01 October 2025 - 08:30 AM
The difficulty accessing the bottom hose clamp in situ reminded me of this useful tool. An easy way of undoing/tightening the lower hose clamp on the bottom hose is from above in the engine bay, with a 500mm long flexible Hose Clip driver but this does depend on the way the hose clamp is facing when it was last tightened up......I always orientate the lower bottom hose clip so it can be accessed easily from above.
Laser Tools - Extra long flexible shaft hose clip driver, allows access to even the most difficult areas:-
https://www.lasertoo...Driver-Long-7mm
(Other similar tools of varying quality and price are also probably available).
#6
Posted 01 October 2025 - 08:36 AM
You might find some useful tips in link below for Mini rad fitting (you may have to register to see the Technical posts section).
Mk1 Forum - Rad Fitting Blues:-
https://mk1-forum.ne...ic.php?p=340968
Mk1 Forum:-
Edited by mab01uk, 01 October 2025 - 08:39 AM.
#7
Posted 05 October 2025 - 06:25 PM
Fit the hose to the radiator then drop the radiator in. That’s the only way I’ve found to do it.
#8
Posted 06 October 2025 - 09:19 AM
Fit the hose to the radiator then drop the radiator in. That’s the only way I’ve found to do it.
Thanks for the reply, I did wonder if anyone had done it that way as it seems the only way to me. I was hoping for some easier way hence the post as I didn't want to disturb the other three connections because I know I would end up buying a new hose and 4 new clips adding more expense.
Now my hand/arm has healed enough to try again I'm going to have another go this afternoon and if I fail I will be taking the hose off and trying your way if the hose is useable.
#9
Posted 08 October 2025 - 04:52 PM
I hear you on the arm pain. I've had to force my arm down there far too many times! ha.
I use a series of extension on my 1/4" socket and deep socket so that I can work it on from the top. Only for the clamp of course. I would try putting the hose on and then the rad and hose together. I can also vouch for the silicone hoses. They do seem to slide on easier.
#10
Posted 09 October 2025 - 12:58 PM Best Answer
At last job done, I managed to get the bottom hose onto the new rad by sliding the rad two thirds down and lifting and fitting the hose then lowering the rad fully down. I taped rubber matting on both sides of rad to prevent damage while fiddling and re fitting the cowling which was a very tight.
I've learned a lot while all I wanted to do was put antifreeze in for winter.
The bottom auxiliary fan switch wouldn't stop leaking even with a new switch and rubber seal and clip fitted so I changed the rad for a screw in type switch which is much easier for future drains and coolant tight.
The radiator cap fitted was the wrong type because it seems the SPI is a pressurised system that needs a double seal cap which allows it to suck coolant back from the expansion tank under the wing when it cools down. The expansion tank sits on the shock mount but mine wasn't fitted correctly, it had to come off anyway to drain the rusty water out and put 500mm of coolant in it. The spi tanks which are now obsolete (luckily mine was good) has no filler cap on it just one small outlet pipe with which to drain and refill which is very time consuming.
Anyway job done and cooling system working as it should, lots more to sort out still though.
Thanks for all replies.
Edited by Mixagon, 09 October 2025 - 01:02 PM.
#11
Posted 09 October 2025 - 05:33 PM
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