1 reply to this topic

[Clubman_Jake]

Hi All,

 

I'm currently at the rather tedious stage of my 1974 Clubman restoration: getting all the panel gaps right.

 

I've already completed the driver's side door, which involved a lot of cutting, welding, and grinding to get it anywhere close to where I wanted it.

 

My first question is about the passenger door.

Firstly, I've had to put around 5mm of shims on the top hinge, and 1mm on the bottom to get it level (which seems like a lot?). The bottom of the door is currently catching slightly on the doorstep/sill when closing, but the swage line on the door already aligns nicely with the quarter panel.

My question is: how much clearance is normally present between the bottom of the door and the doorstep/sill? It's difficult to capture in photos, but on the driver's side the gap is also quite small - perhaps around 2mm above the doorstep. Is this typical? I've included a photo with the seal fitted as a reference.

 

 

For background, both the doorstep and floor have been replaced, but extensive bracing was used and measurements were taken throughout the process. Everything checked out correctly at the time. The door skin was also replaced several years ago. The hinge mounting holes in the inner wing are original and have not been modified.

 

My second question is about the boot lid.

The boot doesn't appear to have the same curved profile across the top as the body. With no seal fitted, the top corners of the boot make contact with the body long before the centre section does. When the seal is installed, the profile appears to line up better, but I have to apply so much force to close the boot that it has bent the bracket holding the latch mechanism. I can also see the rear panel flexing significantly. This happens with both a new seal and the old seal.

 

I'd really appreciate any advice or experiences from anyone who has encountered similar issues.

Thanks,

Jake

 

 

[mab01uk]

I am not sure there were any 'typical defined' panel gaps on classic Minis, even when they originally left the factory for the showroom as new cars, as they were basically 'hand built', spot welded together with jigs where needed. Add to this the often poor standards of quality control, wear of factory tooling over 40 years production, along with lack of investment and a workforce which often went on strike, which did not help matters. Today we also tend to judge things by the near perfect panel gaps seen on modern robot built cars.

 

The mis-match on the curve at the top of the bootlid that you mentioned seemed to get progressively worse over the years, probably due to wear of the factory tooling over the years. Even Heritage which took over most of the original BMC/BL/Rover factory tooling produce Mini panels today which need work to fit properly.

 

Hopefully others on here with direct experience of rectifying similar panel gaps to yours will be along soon with some suggestions which can help you.

 

For reference only, (I am not suggesting you go to the lengths shown in this Mk1 shell restoration linked below), but it does show over 10 pages, in great detail and with many photos how a much better than original factory panel fit can be achieved on an early shell with a lot of work, skill and patience. (You may have to register on the Mk1 Forum to view the thread and photos).

Mk1 shell restoration:-

https://mk1-forum.ne...pic.php?t=40146

Edited by mab01uk, Today, 03:02 PM.