3 replies to this topic

[CaptBen]

Hi All 

 

First post and need of some assistance please 

 

Quick history- bought from UK and shipped to S France, where it now lives.

 

Car seems to be overheating to around 110 degrees indicated.

 

I have not pushed it hard when hot and put cabin heater on to help limp home gently

Yes I know car is not designed with current weather in mind, but has only been driven short distances  in 20-25 degrees temps and cabin heating turned on when temps rise above 90 degrees.

Longest run in 25 degrees heat has been 30 mins, with temps rising after 15-20 mins

 

Only symptom is the gearbox gets really notchy, but only when +90 degrees

 

As most of the cooling system has been replaced (including water pump and oil cooler - which were not listed) my thoughts turned towards the thermostat, as perhaps the PO put a cold temp thermostat in for the UK

I bought a 74 degree thermostat, but to my surprise..... there was no thermostat installed 

I installed the lower temp thermostat and now wondering my next move!

 

Ideas are to borrow or buy a infra red thermostat gun to verify temps (but pretty sure it is overheating)

Then flush radiator 

Then replace water pump for a higher flow pump 

Any other advice appreciated please 

 

Another question: engine running with radiator cap off - should I see any water flow? turbulence? 

As currently the water is dead still!

 

The answer to this might make me just head straight for the pump and impeller replacement!

 

Here is a list of the engine refit done by PO - will try and figure how to upload a couple of pics in the meantime

 

Many thanks, Ben

 

Engine & Gearbox
• Original block acid dipped, crack tested, skimmed, main caps line bored
• Repainted correct late BMC Mk2 colour
• Genuine Rover cam bearings fitted and line bored
• Conrod little ends re bushed 0. 001” clearance
• 1098cc crank ground 0. 010” on mains and big ends. 0. 0015” clearance on mains and 0. 002” clearance on big ends
• Mahle Motorsport main and big end bearings, crank end float 0. 003”
• County 1098cc floating + 0. 020” pistons. Block honed to suit 0. 022” piston to bore clearance Rings gapped to 0. 012”
• 12G202 Cooper cylinder head acid dipped, crack tested, skimmed, ports polished, new original spec valves, 8x new unleaded seats, new bronze guides, new Cooper S double springs, new competition top hats, new competition cotters, new R clips.
• New cylinder head and gearbox stud kit
• ARP block and rocker studs
• Ac Dodd 998 Road torque cam, set at 106 degrees TDC
• New cam thrust washers
• New gasket set throughout 
• New water and oil pump
• New pressure relief sleeve, bullet and spring
• New water hoses 
• Borg and Beck clutch kit
• New 45D points distributer 
• Lucas Gold coil
• 5ES NGK Spark plugs, new leads

 

 

 

 

 

 

Attached Files

•  engine small.jpg   91.21K   1 downloads
•  mini small.jpg   69.87K   1 downloads

Edited by CaptBen, Today, 10:15 AM.

[sonscar]

In my understanding the thermostat is to help the engine get hot( ok it does other things too) and if your engine gets hotter than it's rating it does not keep it cool.It would be worth getting the timing curve checked as retarded timing quickly causes overheating.
Minis were sold in hot countries and we're ok.Steve..

[68+86auto]

• New 45D points distributer 

 

There is a very high chance that this is your issue.

The curve is likely very bad and even if it is ok, the timing is probably set incorrectly.

 

If the timing tests ok, the fuel mixture must be checked.

 

 

 

I would be fitting an 82 or 88 degree thermostat.

[nicklouse]

Re water in the tank.

 

with the cap off when you rev the engine you should see it drop and come back up as the pump sucks water.

 

i adition to the comment about the dizzy. I would do a full water system clean out with some suitable engine flush/rad flush or some thing used for household radiator systems.

 

after that I would fit a new water pump if you were not getting any movement earlier.