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Engine Steady On Water Pump Side


Best Answer dan1zo , 21 July 2026 - 01:20 PM

Hey Ethel

 

I actually found that i had a spare bolt that i had originally bought to replace a snapped top engine steady. ( i just happened to be looking through my spare parts box! )

It seems to be the same thread and length as the bolt for the water pump.

 

So i've added that now and it seems to have JUST enough clearance.  I think this is the same replacement for the water pump bolt from minispares and would usually require a spring washer, but in this case i left it out.

 

So i'm happy now it doesnt catch.

 

I also fitted the new "broken bolt" engine steady to the original side.  That was a pain, mainly because of moving the clutch breather and me forgetting how small your hands have to be to get back to the bulkhead and mount the steady bar.

Like others said, the repair plate is really good. And now basically zero mm engine movement.

 

Thanks everyone for your input

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#1 dan1zo

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Posted 15 July 2026 - 04:41 PM

Hey friends.

 

Ages ago i had the typical issue of the upper engine steady bolt snapping in the block.

I never managed to get it out and had to resort to getting an alternate support for the water pump side of the engine.

 

I bought one of these type of kits and it fixed the issue

https://www.moss-eur...6YaAsL3EALw_wcB

 

The problem however is that the water pump pulley rubs against one of the bolts, the upper rear water pump attachment bolt.

 

It because the thickness of the plate is about 3mm and so the top of the bolt now touches the pulley.

 

Has anyone else fitted one of these? and if you did, how did you get around this issue?

 

Cheers

Dan



#2 mab01uk

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Posted 15 July 2026 - 05:02 PM

Minispares sell various different kits (linked below) to repair the standard engine steady when bolt(s) shear off in the block, which may help?

 

ENGINE STEADY REPAIR - 2 BROKEN BOLTS WITH BREATHER.

"If the longer engine block bolt that goes through the engine stabiliser bushes is broken and there is no engine breather fitted use kit use MSSK002. If both engine block bolts for the engine stabiliser bar are broken and there is no breather fitted use MSSK004 If a breather is fitted on the clutch housing and only the longer engine block bolt is broken use MSSK003 If a breather is fitted and both the engine block bolts are broken use MSSK005 Please note this kit will only fit manual cars."

https://www.minispar...s-with-breather

 

 

 

 

 



#3 dan1zo

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Posted 15 July 2026 - 05:13 PM

Minispares sell various different kits (linked below) to repair the standard engine steady when bolt(s) shear off in the block, which may help?

 

ENGINE STEADY REPAIR - 2 BROKEN BOLTS WITH BREATHER.

"If the longer engine block bolt that goes through the engine stabiliser bushes is broken and there is no engine breather fitted use kit use MSSK002. If both engine block bolts for the engine stabiliser bar are broken and there is no breather fitted use MSSK004 If a breather is fitted on the clutch housing and only the longer engine block bolt is broken use MSSK003 If a breather is fitted and both the engine block bolts are broken use MSSK005 Please note this kit will only fit manual cars."

https://www.minispar...s-with-breather

 

Cheers!
I'm not sure why i didnt get one like that.

 

Is it just going to be a case of using one of these instead of the water pump side one that i've already got?
Did I just waste my money?



#4 yeti21586

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Posted 15 July 2026 - 07:03 PM

https://s-can.co.uk/...ngine-steadies/ make.some really nice ones

#5 dan1zo

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Posted 15 July 2026 - 07:16 PM

https://s-can.co.uk/...ngine-steadies/ make.some really nice ones


Very nice. But really should address the snapped bolt, or sort the current engine steady first.

#6 sonscar

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Posted 15 July 2026 - 07:20 PM

If there is a washer then try a thinner one or remove it.Perhaps grind some from the bolthead.Countersink the hole in the plate and use a tapered cap head screw.Many possibilities.Steve..

#7 dan1zo

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Posted 15 July 2026 - 07:43 PM

If there is a washer then try a thinner one or remove it.Perhaps grind some from the bolthead.Countersink the hole in the plate and use a tapered cap head screw.Many possibilities.Steve..


No washer is there.
Actually if i could find a matching bolt threads with a tapered head, that would be the perfect solution. But i dont really know where to look for something like that.
Wonder why they didnt design the kit like that.

#8 dan1zo

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Posted 15 July 2026 - 09:30 PM

Ah, ive looked at the replacement water pump bolts from minispares. They dont have the flange like the original bolts. So will sit lower.

Maybe just a £1 bolt will be the solution?

#9 Ethel

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Posted 16 July 2026 - 08:42 AM

I can't quite visualise how it fits. You might have sussed it with the bolt though. The flanged head fasteners appeared with the A+ engine so it may have been designed for the earlier setup. The pulleys also come in different diameters, but that's partly because they don't all fit under all cylinder heads.

 

A plain bzp bolt would be better last resort?

 

 

The best solution would a stabiliser at both ends.



#10 MrBounce

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Posted 16 July 2026 - 09:11 PM

I used one of the "broken bolt" steadies for years on my old Mayfair. I found it was well designed and very simple to fit. I did not have the funds or expertise at the time to repair it properly. I only removed it as I changed the engine when the original 998 wore out and a waiting (and rather rorty) 1302 went in in its place. 

I had no issues with the steady bar when using it. It worked beautifully. 



#11 whistler

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Posted 17 July 2026 - 01:47 PM

I fitted one to my wife's 1330. Very good design and still gives you clearance to work around the exhaust, unlike the thermostat version. I bought one for my mk1 but it doesn't fit if you have hydro suspension as the hydro pipe and union are in the way. Tried all types but none fit to the bulkhead.



#12 dan1zo

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Posted 17 July 2026 - 04:30 PM

Ethel. This is what i currently have fitted and thats the bolt that catches on the water pump pulley, you can see the lip on the bolt.  I've ground it down somewhat previously, but its really the width (11mm i think) thats the issue.  I have it unscrewed, just put it back to show where it goes.

 

Good to hear from others that the broken bolt steadies work well. I've ordered one and if i can find a bolt to replace this one, then i'll have a steady on both sides.

 

Attached Files


Edited by dan1zo, 17 July 2026 - 04:31 PM.


#13 Ethel

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Posted 17 July 2026 - 08:28 PM

A plain hex head 5/16 head should max out at just shy of 6mm, some can be closer to 5mm.



#14 dan1zo

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Posted 17 July 2026 - 09:00 PM

A plain hex head 5/16 head should max out at just shy of 6mm, some can be closer to 5mm.


Yeah i think I'll get hold of one of those hex bolts you mentioned before. Cheers for that advice.

#15 Ethel

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Posted 17 July 2026 - 10:20 PM

Hold the pulley on & measure the clearance. Drill bits make decent gauges if you see what diameter will fit through the gap. A conventional bolt would be the best option as it'll have a shoulder that fills the hole in the bracket better. A button head setscrew might gain you less than a mm across its centre, though obviously more near the edge of the button.

 

They tend to be stainless steel, which is less strong. If you can find a HT (grade 8) versio that would be an improvement - hen's teeth.

 

 

Verging on the ridiculous:

 

https://www.ebay.co....ar=417103460072

 

https://www.ebay.co....ar=587751286321

 

Note not all countersink angles are the same could be 820,could be 900






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