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Boot Lid Twisting Issues


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#1 Clubman_Jake

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Posted 12 August 2026 - 07:29 AM

Hi All,

 

I'm at the point in my 1974 Clubby restoration where I'm gapping all of the panels and getting them to fit nicely. The last one to tackle is the boot lid.

 

The issue I'm having is that when I turn the handle to latch the boot lid, the lower rear screen aperture twists - its not a huge amount, but its enough to make me think about it.

 

As I've tried to show in the following photos, both of the hinges close without touching together, the boot is fitted evenly, and has a new repro seal fitted to the lid. There is also a photo showing the latching bracket which is spot welded to the parcel shelf and rear screen aperture - is this correct?

 

IMG-0053.jpg
IMG-0052.jpg
IMG-0051.jpg
IMG-0049.jpg
IMG-0048.jpg

 

I have tried fitting both the rear screen and the original boot seal - neither of which seem to make much of a difference.

 

I have also tried 'gently persuading' (hammering with a mallet), the boot frame, to make sure the seal touches evenly and that boot closes as easily as possible - this photo shows where the boot closes too without any force at all to compress the seal.

 

IMG-0050.jpg

 

So my question is, am I being paranoid, or is something wrong here? Is anyone else at a similar point in their restoration, or could anyone point my in the right direction?

 

Any help is much appreciated!

Jake

 

 



#2 pete l

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Posted 12 August 2026 - 08:10 AM

Mine did something similar, i just bent the rear hinge support in a bit



#3 Rubbershorts

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Posted 12 August 2026 - 10:24 AM

Just a small point, which may make no difference whatsoever, but do you have the gaskets on the hinges? They don't appear to be there is pics one and two. Daz.



#4 nicklouse

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Posted 12 August 2026 - 11:49 AM

You must fit gaskets, and you should use new ones.



#5 Ethel

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Posted 12 August 2026 - 11:59 AM

I wouldn't get too obsessed with it, give the seals time to settle. As Pete says often it's the hinge panel that has most effect. It's farther from the hinge pin & it's easier to get some tilt with just 2 screws compared to the bigger contact on the boot side.  That open boot photo is handy: if you lay a straight edge across the hinge pins it will hopefully show they are concentric (so there's no panel flexing as they articulate). It should also reveal some nice symmetry in the gaps between the straight edge & bodywork.

 

If you decide the lid does need some tweaking, try some ratchet straps & timber blocks for bow'n arrow cosplay. both the bonnet & boot lid can be sprung more than you might think.

 

 

...that's some very tidy work, so I can understand wanting it just so.  



#6 Clubman_Jake

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Posted 12 August 2026 - 06:37 PM

Mine did something similar, i just bent the rear hinge support in a bit


Thanks - I have already bent the support quite a lot to be honest, but I’ll have another look thanks - should the hinge support sit at a slightly angle, or is it vertical?

Edited by Clubman_Jake, 12 August 2026 - 06:38 PM.


#7 Clubman_Jake

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Posted 12 August 2026 - 06:40 PM

Just a small point, which may make no difference whatsoever, but do you have the gaskets on the hinges? They don't appear to be there is pics one and two. Daz.


Thanks for the reply Daz - no I don’t have the gaskets fitted, like you say, I don’t think it will make much difference, but I’ll order some so I can try them at the weekend just in case

#8 Clubman_Jake

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Posted 12 August 2026 - 06:41 PM

You must fit gaskets, and you should use new ones.


Ok I’ll try and get hold of some to try at the weekend - should it make much difference to the twisting of the aperture though?

#9 Clubman_Jake

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Posted 12 August 2026 - 06:46 PM

I wouldn't get too obsessed with it, give the seals time to settle. As Pete says often it's the hinge panel that has most effect. It's farther from the hinge pin & it's easier to get some tilt with just 2 screws compared to the bigger contact on the boot side. That open boot photo is handy: if you lay a straight edge across the hinge pins it will hopefully show they are concentric (so there's no panel flexing as they articulate). It should also reveal some nice symmetry in the gaps between the straight edge & bodywork.

If you decide the lid does need some tweaking, try some ratchet straps & timber blocks for bow'n arrow cosplay. both the bonnet & boot lid can be sprung more than you might think.


...that's some very tidy work, so I can understand wanting it just so.


Thanks for the reply!

I have already bent the hinge panel quite a bit - but I’ll definitely give it another look while I give your straight edge method a go!

Do you have any idea if the hinges should be quite wobbly on the hinge pins? I always assumed it was to account for the different angles in the boot lid as it moves, but maybe my hinges are just worn as they move all over the place…

Thanks for the compliment - yes I’ve been going a little too hard on the details on this one - it’s my first full welding/restoration project so I wanted to take my time and get it as good as I can!

Cheers,
Jake

#10 Ethel

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Posted 12 August 2026 - 10:05 PM

I don't recall the hinges being intentionally loose. If they weren't on the same axis  something would have to flex as they opened. As they're at the bottom it wouldn't matter too much if they are: gravity will keep them in the same place & the seals will prevent the rattling. The only thing would be the seals could push the boot lid back if there's excess play in the hinge.  



#11 Clubman_Jake

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Posted 13 August 2026 - 07:03 AM

I don't recall the hinges being intentionally loose. If they weren't on the same axis  something would have to flex as they opened. As they're at the bottom it wouldn't matter too much if they are: gravity will keep them in the same place & the seals will prevent the rattling. The only thing would be the seals could push the boot lid back if there's excess play in the hinge.  

Hmm ok - my hinges have tons of slop on them (side-to-side mainly), I might try to get my hands on some new hinges just in case, even just to see if there is a difference - maybe it will help?.



#12 sonscar

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Posted 13 August 2026 - 08:23 AM

I'm sure you know this but the hinges are handed.Steve..

#13 Ethel

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Posted 13 August 2026 - 08:56 AM

They can only have worn bigger, so it should be possible to push the lid into position, taking up the slack.

 

I'm resisting saying try without the seal because I've fitted a Mini boot seal  :D



#14 cal844

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Posted 13 August 2026 - 09:22 AM

You must fit gaskets, and you should use new ones.

Ok I’ll try and get hold of some to try at the weekend - should it make much difference to the twisting of the aperture though?

I've never fitted gaskets to my saloon minis, never had the issues

#15 pete l

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Posted 13 August 2026 - 01:26 PM

If you have gaskets on all the parts of the hinge; it won't make a difference. 

 

Mine are very wobbly as well.

 

I think what might have happenned is when you pulled all the panels together to spot weld them, you might have pulled down the hinge part which would have twisted the bottom of it towards the front of the car, tilting it.






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