17 replies to this topic

[Steam]

Driving the Clubman, probably further than I have in ages.
Fault One. Stopped after a couple of hundred ks to fuel up. Only needed about 16l so 1/2 full. Started missing and would not pull up hills and generally low on power all revs. I would have said sediment in tank but I know tank is clean. Fault got steadily better and was gone after about 20 mins, then ran fine again.

Second Fault. Developed knock from front left on deceleration. Coming from drivetrain / wheel etc as it speeds up and slows down with car speed. Still there when coasting out of gear but seems to dissapear when accelerating or cruising. Also disappeared when turning steering wheel but I cannot remember whether it was left or right, but I think it was when turning left.
Any ideas welcome.

[ADRay]

two thoughts from a non expert: how is your timing, how is the state of your wheel bearings and ball joints?

Edited by ADRay, 14 September 2026 - 10:16 AM.

[stuart bowes]

jack the car up and start wiggling the wheel about, gently lever at things with a prybar, try and rule out suspension components ? 

 

sorry if that's teaching to suck eggs lol

[mab01uk]

Mini CV joints if worn can make noises, especially if any rubber gaiters have split and allowed in dirt to cause wear.

Check the outer joints for clicking during tight turns. Steer on full lock in a car park, driving slowly in a tight circle each way, any noise/clicking usually comes from the CV on the outside/loaded side, if I remember right. Also maybe worth checking the inner pot joints if the knocking/clunking noise is is happening on acceleration, deceleration.

 

 

[68+86auto]

Loose/bad condenser? But then you did say it slowly got better.

 

How long have you driven it since without an issue?

Edited by 68+86auto, 14 September 2026 - 10:54 PM.

[Steam]

Loose/bad condenser? But then you did say it slowly got better.
 
How long have you driven it since without an issue?

Probably a few hundred ks, I am now thinking fuel evaporation or a temporary issue with the float bowl. Now running fine apart from the knocking issue.

[timmy850]

I had some dodgy lower arm rubber bushes that deteriorated in short time and caused a knocking noise

It could also be front tie bar bushes, steering rack bolts loose etc

[Steam]

I am trying to get my head around the issue, only seems to show up on decel or when not under load driving. Also there when coasting and follows car speed so slows down as car does. And seems to be felt around the passender footwell.
We are away so not getting into pulling apart.

[bpirie1000]

What engine and carb set up do you have?
The bogging down sounds like a fuel starvation issue. Could be some sediment in the float or it could be a sign that your fuel hose is perishing with these new fuels that we are being supplied. Have you checked the rating of the fuel pipe? If you have not changed it deafo something worth considering..

Newer fuel blends like E10 contain higher ethanol content, which can degrade rubber hoses quickly and cause outer or inner perishing even shortly after replacement..... another big thanks to the cover mentioning for that one...

Bring back leaded 4 star fuels... they're were also a hell of a lot cheaper.. £20 lasted me a whole weekend needlessly driving about at speed limits (or slightly above................)

[Steam]

Further info gleaned on the knocking, jacked passenger side up and there is a definate tight point in the rotation where the wheel and disc will turn slightly but the driveshaft is not moving. Also at this tight spot, at 6 and 12 on the wheel shows a small amount of rocking back and forth. If I rotate the wheel/ hub past this tight spot the 6 and 12 rock all but dissapears and the wheel/hub/driveshaft all turn together as 1.
Starting to sound like the outer cv joint or wheel bearing to me.

Edited by Steam, 15 September 2026 - 08:31 AM.

[Ethel]

Vapour locked is a decent shout on the running. Presumably it will have gone from running to standing while you refuelled, allowing manifold heat time to soak in. If the carb has a waxstat jet you could see if a bit of choke makes any difference if it happens again.

 

Plenty of potential culprits for  the knocking - engine steadies, exhaust hitting floor, driveshaft joints...

[Steam]

Vapour locked is a decent shout on the running. Presumably it will have gone from running to standing while you refuelled, allowing manifold heat time to soak in. If the carb has a waxstat jet you could see if a bit of choke makes any difference if it happens again.
 
Plenty of potential culprits for  the knocking - engine steadies, exhaust hitting floor, driveshaft joints...

Your thoughts on heat soak are exactly what I was thinking.

[andyapanel]

Your comment about the passenger bulkhead suggests it could be an engine mount.

Its an easy job.

Good luck

[Steam]

The drive shaft nut was loose, moving slightly with the split pin in. Once the pin was out I got an extra 2 castellations, about 1/8 of a turn on it. I didn't have a torque wrench but tightened as tight as I could which fixed the tight spot and the movement. On driving the knock was gone so fixed.
Question is why has the nut loosened. It was torqued up correctly about 12 months ago when I replaced the outer drive shaft boots.

[ADRay]

The drive shaft nut was loose, moving slightly with the split pin in. Once the pin was out I got an extra 2 castellations, about 1/8 of a turn on it. I didn't have a torque wrench but tightened as tight as I could which fixed the tight spot and the movement. On driving the knock was gone so fixed.
Question is why has the nut loosened. It was torqued up correctly about 12 months ago when I replaced the outer drive shaft boots.

I was in the same boat earlier this year. I learned that you need to first torque down the nut with a large flat washer to press everything into place correctly. Pic is of the specs given in the Haynes manual.

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Edited by ADRay, 18 September 2026 - 10:42 AM.