18 replies to this topic

[amsgw]

Try running a positive wire directly from the battery to the coil and disconnect the positive wire coming from the ignition switch... see what happens. Also, have you noticed if the spark plugs smell like gasoline? A few years ago, I had an issue with an HIF carb where the choke O-ring had worn out, causing too much fuel to get in.

Thank you! I did just this, it does seem to the the ignition switch.

The plugs did smell of fuel but weren't wet so this was a bit of a red herring. The carb has recently been rebuilt so I was fairly sure it wasn't worn components

[amsgw]

Could the oil in the bores / excess fuel have soaked the ceramic insulator on the spark plug, affecting the strength of the spark?

I’ve read that modern spark plugs are designed for modern engines - very precise amounts of fuel, in exactly the right place. Using them in old stuff can be problematic - although opinions are mixed.

Certainly on my old bikes if they don’t start in 2 or 3 kicks I end up replacing the plug.

I'm not sure on the legitimacy of this however am aware of current fake NGKs on the market that I would never be able to tell apart, so did consider swapping the plugs for the avoidance of doubt - but at this point, funds seem to be evaporating with nothing gained!! Turned out the existing plugs were fine anyway

[amsgw]

So the final unanswered question - does anyone know why the coil whined? It doesn't seem to now, though the testing period is limited. It whined when I connected it up to the hot lead for a few seconds, too.

[68+86auto]

 

I haven't read through everything but from what I read, your battery, cables or connections are likely bad.

You should see well above 9v while cranking, minimum 9.6. You need to do some more measuring to find where the drop is. If

The flashing on the test light is likely because the battery voltage is low. You have it connected incorrectly to test the module. To test the module it should be connected across the coil positive and negative terminals.

I would like to see photos of everything too.

Thank you - this is part of the puzzle I wasn't sure about! I couldn't find reference to a proper expected value at cranking. The main huh? Was that she runs fine when started, so all connections must be fine otherwise...

I hear you about the module though the set up I used was as recommended by AC Dodd, so perhaps they both achieve the same end?

 

 

Once started, there is only a small load on the connections so it will run with very poor connections.

 

IF the distributor and module is working, the light should still flash how you have it connected but it will be dimmer than how I do it. That way the light is running through the coil so gets a reduced voltage.