16 replies to this topic

[Gaz66]

Ok chaps,
Ive just installed new timken bearings on new radius arms and torqued up to 60ft/lb then to nearest hole.
One hub turns "ok" with a little resistance while the other one is just shy of being locked up.
How much resistance should there be with new bearings?
Is a little resistance ok or should they be easy to spin?

[Ethel]

They should turn without resistance, perhaps just shy of spinning.

[Gaz66]

I have problems then 😳
They are new alloy minisport hubs and im wondering if they are to blame ☹️

Edited by Gaz66, Today, 02:49 PM.

[stuart bowes]

.. torqued up to 60ft/lb then to nearest hole..

 

is that torqued up and then tightened to nearest hole, or torqued up and backed off to nearest hole

 

and which should it be ?   only asking because purely by coincidence I'm taking mine off again to have another look at something (mid build) and want to double check them

[Gaz66]

Tightened to nearest hole 👍🏻

[stuart bowes]

see that's what I was wondering because surely that then takes it like 1/8th of a turn past the torque point ?  I'm sure I read somewhere you're supposed to back it off but that's just a vague memory and possibly remembered wrong

 

I did consider the possibility of linishing the nut down slighty until the torque takes me to the right hole location.. mine isn't on as a 'final fit' yet anyway so I think I just did it 'tight ish' and left it without a pin in.  have to have a look later

[Spider]

Being an after-market hub, are they designed to take the standard wheel bearing ? I take it these are rears ?

If you are willing to take it apart - to a point, you can make some measurements to find where the issue lay or you could fit some shims between the cones of the bearing assy, doing a trial and error fit / feel.

 

If these are rear hubs, the central register (shoulder) in the factory hubs was 0.4175". Even if you have something that can reach in there to measure it directly with, I'd suggest measuring off fitted bearing cups as the shoulder here may not be square, it's the fitted distance between the bearing cups that's important, not the actual apparent register thickness. One method of measuring can be found in the front wheel bearing guide I wrote up in FAQ.

If you are happy to try just shimming them, the shims used on the crankshaft nose for adjusting the timing gear while a tad large, will work here, however, they are only available in 0.005" thickness.

I'll just add that I found components from that particular supplier to be none to good in the past.

[Gaz66]

Spider,
Im presuming these hubs will take taper rollers as they are "competition" orientated.
I took the taper roller races out and cleaned the grease out to make sure the outer races were seated which they were.
The only thing I can think of is poor machining of the hubs even though they are supposed to be cnc machined.
If this is the case then its the second item from them that has been sh!te and ive only had two! 😳
They have been in stock for a few years so I cant take them back now so, like yourself I thought about the shimming route to save the day *sigh*
The things you have to do these days to sort out other peoples failures 😳😳😳
Ill take some measurements now and see if I can source some shims of various thicknesses.
👍🏻

Edited by Gaz66, Today, 04:26 PM.

[Shooter63]

The Timken bearing comes with a very thin shim for just this situation , check the packet the bearings came in. I think I did mention this in your " where is the spacer" post.

 

Shooter

[Gaz66]

The Timken bearing comes with a very thin shim for just this situation , check the packet the bearings came in. I think I did mention this in your " where is the spacer" post.

Shooter

No shim in the packaging 👎🏻
Just the two bearings, rear seal and split pin.

Edited by Gaz66, Today, 06:34 PM.

[weef]

I don't know if there is any set way to get the correct preload on a taper roller bearing as in each installation  there are several variables , hub cleanliness, hub sizing/ alighnment tolerences, fitting the race square, packing the grease and torque wrench calibration.

It really comes down to experience/ feel but if you want to get all technical you will have to measure the end float.

The end float is 0.001" to 0.002" for a correctly adjusted taper bearing, how you measure it is up to the individual, but it will require precission equipment not usually available to the home mechanic.

You are working to the nearest position where  the stub pin hole and castle nut slot align, again huge tolerences here, and the unit still rotates with minimal drag.

To me it's really "how it feels" but them i've done quite a few over the years. 

[Spider]

The Timken bearing comes with a very thin shim for just this situation , check the packet the bearings came in. I think I did mention this in your " where is the spacer" post.

 

Shooter

 

Fitting that shim will make them tighter.

 

 

I don't know if there is any set way to get the correct preload on a taper roller bearing as in each installation  there are several variables , hub cleanliness, hub sizing/ alighnment tolerences, fitting the race square, packing the grease and torque wrench calibration.

It really comes down to experience/ feel but if you want to get all technical you will have to measure the end float.

The end float is 0.001" to 0.002" for a correctly adjusted taper bearing, how you measure it is up to the individual, but it will require precission equipment not usually available to the home mechanic.

You are working to the nearest position where  the stub pin hole and castle nut slot align, again huge tolerences here, and the unit still rotates with minimal drag.

To me it's really "how it feels" but them i've done quite a few over the years. 

 

The Rear Wheel Bearing Preload is 0.000 to 0.001" - loaded, no end float !

[Ethel]

If it's their current version, they offer  them as a kit with Timken bearings, same part number

[Gaz66]

I think the shim offered by the likes of Minispares etc is to take up any slack in the fitted bearing.
Its the opposite I need 😁
Ive ordered some shims so lets see if this can be sorted 👍🏻

Edited by Gaz66, Today, 09:24 PM.

[Earwax]

You appear all over this,   so hopefully you can get a work around.  Just a thought - are the drums and liners out of play completely.