1446 replies to this topic

[JetBLICK]

gutted mate! Its always the way ent it

[The Matt]

Yup!

On another note, one of the Hellfrauds ignition leads is broken too!

[mini93]

did you ring southam at all?

[The Matt]

Nah, not yet. I'd rather try and diagnose it myself to be honest. But with the flywheel needing swapping anyway, it's a good chance to inspect the primary gear endlfoat.

I'll sort it

[CanadianMiniFan]

ahhhh too bad mate...

[The Matt]

Sorted!

Primary gear was pinching up/gummed up so I cleaned and lubed it and removed some high spots from the primary gear retaining ring and it seems to be sorted now. Also found a lovely damaged keyplate! The crank tail looks OK, but the old flywheel's opened up a little:



ZOIX!!!!

Aaaaand, I've taken a new photo of the dirty FReaK!



Ok, two:


Well, three:



She's sooo tiny next to Jo's Focus!

The more I look at her, the more I realise that I need to get the bodywork up to scratch and all shiney, she deserves it!


Plus, I've fitted the ULTIMATE modification! A nodding Mr T (converted from a shower gel bottle)



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Going to do a guide on the whole clutch setup, so I'll post a few bits in here then copy them across to the FAQ section when I'm done.

Soooo, to set drivestrap alignment:

Start off with your backplate/pressure plate resting on some spacers (I used 1/2" ones) that are deep enough to keep it off the work surface and stop the centre splined part of the clutch from touching said surface:



Pop yer backplate (horns facing upwards) onto the spacers, like so:



Then, you place your clutch plate on top of the backplate, like this:



So it'll look like this in section:



Then, place your drive straps on the flywheel, bolted down (pinched up tight, but not necessarily 100% tight and torqued up:



Then, you should be able to see how 'flat' the drive straps are, basically, align the holes in the drivestraps with the holes in the backplate horns. You're checking to see if the drivestraps are flat (parallel to the flywheel surface):



I used a dial gauge to compare the distance from the top surface of the drivestrap to the face of the flywheel, on both ends I managed to get it down to within 0.002" of 0.495". Checking process shown in these pics:

[Tomf]

Looking good mate, glad you found out what the problem was.

Nice little guide there, what do you use to space the backplate out when using a lightweight flywheel and where do you put them?

[The Matt]

lightened flywheels shoudl come with spacers that are the same thickness as the amount of material that's been taken off.

On this U/L flywheel, you can see the spacers under the driverstraps, bolted into the three threaded holes in the flywheel.

[Tomf]

hmmm dam iv ordered a second had one, so i dont think it will have the spacers .

DO you know how i should work out the spacing gap?

[JetBLICK]

u just need to do what matts done and get the straps level, spacers can be made from anything... a lot of people just drill out the threads on an appropriate size nut to fit the shank on the bolt. Then file it down or add washers or whatever to bring it up to where it should be.

[Tomf]

Cheers sounds like it should be pretty easy to sort then.

[The Matt]

Found out why the diff end cover was leaking like mad.....

There was no fapping O-ring on around the detent plunger. That, coupled with the fact that it was all scaled up and had no chance of sealing, was why it was leaking!

Also, fitted a thermostat today. I did have a sleeve in there instead of a 'stat, but it wasn't getting hot enough at all, so I'm trying a stat in there this week.

Still got an ikkle misfire though, but I've found out that the ignition's firing at about 10-12degrees BTDC at 1500 rpm, so I need to wind the advance up a little, I'm really aiming for about 14-16 with the Weber, up to about 30 degree advance at 4.5k apparently. Problem is, my laptop sometimes won't connect to the megajolt (probably because it's an old laptop and the USB ports are on the way out, I have problems with other USB devices sometimes)

[JetBLICK]

Found out why the diff end cover was leaking like mad.....

There was no fapping O-ring on around the detent plunger.

I did that too

Also, fitted a thermostat today. I did have a sleeve in there instead of a 'stat, but it wasn't getting hot enough at all, so I'm trying a stat in there this week.

PMSL i did that too!

[The Matt]

Found out why the diff end cover was leaking like mad.....

There was no fapping O-ring on around the detent plunger.

I did that too

Aaah, but this wasn't my fault!

Also, fitted a thermostat today. I did have a sleeve in there instead of a 'stat, but it wasn't getting hot enough at all, so I'm trying a stat in there this week.

PMSL i did that too!

It's mad ent it! At the moment, I'd quite happily swap out my whole engine and gearbox for a mild 1330 in good running order!!!

Actually though, I went back out in the garage after I'd written this and had another play with it and it's running sooo much better than it ever has. The temp's getting up nicely to just about 1/4 of the gauge and the oil leak's stopped! It's still waaay too rich though!

Rolling road ASAP methinks!

[The Matt]