Help needed electrics
#1
Posted 02 January 2007 - 11:53 PM
Need to wire up the su fuel pump too at the rear again one earth to the body and power from the fuse box or the ignition also the pump has two breathers do I just run a pipe inside the boot.
Also need to wire in the distributor as it is the electronic ignition can't remember what I have done in the past.
Just need to sort these jobs out to get it up and running thks.
#2
Posted 03 January 2007 - 12:15 AM
Run a feed from the starter solenoid to an inline fuse (10 amps blade or 15 amps glass cartridge should do it for most fans used in Minis) and then to the load side of the relay. This can then run the fan which must indeed be earthed. You need to get the polarity of the fan right or it will be running backwards! The control side of the relay needs to be fed from a fused ignition source and earthed through the thermic switch in the rad base. Simple.
A fuel pump with a vent? Odd but this should also be powered through a relay and ideally with an innertia switch in the circuit to prevent small crashes becoming serious fires. It will need to be a whole new circuit, don't try to run it off anything that runs to the boot already. You can take power directly from the battery (using a fuse and a relay) and run a small cable from the front of the car to provide an ignition source to run the relay. The innertia switch should be in the power side of the system so in this instance it would need to be in the boot. That's possibly not the best place for it (it could get knocked about by luggage) but if you want it elsewhere all you need to do is run the power from the solenoid as before and mount the switch where you like before taking the circuit all the way to the back of the car. Got any pictures of the pump?
Electronic ignition just needs 12v to the module. Make sure it's 12v. It needs to be on an ignition circuit obviously and should really be fused.
#3
Posted 03 January 2007 - 11:39 PM
#4
Posted 04 January 2007 - 01:01 PM
Yup you should use a relay so you can add control options like the fan only running with the ignition.
Run a feed from the starter solenoid to an inline fuse (10 amps blade or 15 amps glass cartridge should do it for most fans used in Minis) and then to the load side of the relay. This can then run the fan which must indeed be earthed. You need to get the polarity of the fan right or it will be running backwards! The control side of the relay needs to be fed from a fused ignition source and earthed through the thermic switch in the rad base. Simple.
I would agree with this other than I would reccomend that you use a constant live instead of a ignition switched source. This means that even after you have switched off the fan may continue to run & prevent 'heat sink'
Alan...
#5
Posted 04 January 2007 - 03:58 PM
I would agree with this other than I would reccomend that you use a constant live instead of a ignition switched source. This means that even after you have switched off the fan may continue to run & prevent 'heat sink'
Alan...
that would be cooling the water in the radiator, so pretty useless unless you have an electric water pump that continues to run together with the fan right?
#6
Posted 07 January 2007 - 12:04 AM
I would agree with this other than I would reccomend that you use a constant live instead of a ignition switched source. This means that even after you have switched off the fan may continue to run & prevent 'heat sink'
Alan...
that would be cooling the water in the radiator, so pretty useless unless you have an electric water pump that continues to run together with the fan right?
Yes, but as it is of the 'sucky' type (assumed) it will be mounted on the outside of the radiator & draw out of the engine bay & pull cool air in the grille & from under the car.
Alan...
#7
Posted 07 January 2007 - 12:19 AM
the fan may continue to run & prevent 'heat sink'
Assuming you mean heat soak, it's only really an issue on alloy engines. Iron releases the heat it has stored up very slowly compared to aluminium which is a far superior conductor. So it is much less likely for the coolant to boil once the engine is off. It is possible to cool the engine too quickly! You'd be surprised just how soon the fan would turn itself off once the engine has been stopped anyway purely because it is only really cooling the coolant in the rad and the switch is at the coolest part of it. You can always wire it like that if you like but as has been said without the pump running it doesn't cool very much, the thermo syphon effect will draw coolant through the rad but only fairly slowly compared to the pump.
For switches and relays try:
Car Builder Solutions,
Vehicle Wiring Products,
Auto Electric Supplies,
Pole Volt,
Auto Sparks,
or
Holden Vintage and Classic.
Edited by Dan, 07 January 2007 - 12:21 AM.
#8
Posted 08 January 2007 - 11:40 PM
Edited by Maxmini, 08 January 2007 - 11:49 PM.
#9
Posted 09 January 2007 - 12:12 AM
#10
Posted 09 January 2007 - 11:30 PM
#11
Posted 10 January 2007 - 11:41 PM
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