15 replies to this topic

[mk=john]

Hi
For my rear wheels, I have new rear hubs, taper roller bearings (from Minispares) and new wheel studs. As for the bearings, there is no spacer piece as this is taken up by the design of the inner race. What is the best way to put the outer race into the hub? They are a tight fit and I don't want to damage anything.


Also, the wheel studs have splines near the head, but the stud holes on the hubs have just smoothround holes. Is this correct? Do I have to strike the studs with a hammer to get them to fit correctly in the hub?

Thanks

John

[Guess-Works.com]

Use a drift (punch) to put the bearing races in, taping round the clock to get them in..

and yes with the studs they need to hit them in with a hammer

[mk=john]

Would the punch be just an ordinary steel one? Will this cause damage?

[minimanclive]

It might be wrong, but I use the outer race from an old bearing to tap around with a hammer to put the new bearing in.

[andyps]

Don't use a punch unless it is softer than the bearings otherwise you will damage the new bearing - it can cause stress raisers which massively shorten the life of the bearing. To make it easier to fit, wrap the outers in cling film and stick them in the freezer for a couple of hours - they will probably drop straight in then. If you have to knock them in, as suggested use the old bearign to do it as this spreads the load around the whole bearing reducing the chance of damage - just make sure you use it in such a way you can get the second one out!!

Early tapered bearings have a spacer, but later ones had an extended inner and were matched to take away the need for a spacer - they normally result in a small pre-load I think, so the hub will be tight to rotate when they are fitted correctly.

[mk=john]

Great Idea....the freezer! I actually remember from my model engineering days (I used to build live steam railway locomotives), I used to heat up the metal tyres with a torch before putting them onto the ,main wheel, and then they contracted to make a tight fit.

I guess this is the opposite, where the bearing outers will contract making the diameter smaller? Basically, do the teo outers go in first, before the rest of the bearing?

Thanks
John

[Bass Man]

The Freezer works, but for more time, I suggest overnight. You could also warm the receptor as well, although one thing to beware of is to get it in quick, as soon as the two parts meet they will expand/contract almost instantly. I did this on an old bike once, it worked a treat.

[andyps]

The freezer will contract the bearing outer so it will be smaller and should drop in or need very little force to get it in.

Fit the two outers into the hub and then the inners will just drop into place - the one which goes towards the middle of the car is held in place by the seal (although it will still move around) and the outer one can be put onto the hub when the hub is on the shaft and then tightened ot the appropriate torque with all parts in place.

For the studs in the hub, just belt them with a big hammer - they will create their own splines!

[mk=john]

Hi
Thanks. i actually left the outer races in the freezer overnight, but it didnt seem to make much difference. It still seemed quite tight to put in.

Alternatively, If I were to use a piece of aluminium bar, about 1/2" in diameter and tap the end of it with a small hammer to get the outer races into the hubs, what problems might occurr?

Thanks

[The Matt]

I've fitted bloomin hundreds of wheel bearings with a punch and never had any problems.

Strangely enough I have never used a freezer though!

[mk=john]

Hi
Ok, so if I use a metal rod of soft metal such as brass or aluminium, then it should be OK then if I tap in the outer races?? Tapping all around its circumference, right??

John

[The Matt]

I always used a flat nosed drift, just a normal one. But take car to do it with gentle taps. That being said, I now have easy access to a hydraulic press, so it's a load easier to use that if the hubs are off.

Yeah, around the circumference in gentle taps as GW said above.

[mk=john]

When you mention "drift", what exactly does that look like, and where can I obtain? Could i just use my idea of perhaps 1/2" diameter aluminium bar, with a flat end?

Thanks

[mk=john]

Hi All
I have managed to get the outer races into the hub to sit against the hub shoulder. The freezing method didnt work. But all i did was cut an approx 100mm length of 10mm diameter aluminium bar (which is very soft), and used that as th drift.

After inserting one race, I had to cut the bar again t,o make a new flat end as it was so soft it deformes easily!!
Great as its virtually impossible to damage the race or hub as the ally is so soft.

John

[andyps]

If youdeformed the bar it is unlikely to have caused any problems with the bearing. Whilst you may get away with using a standard drift I used to work for the company who make the tapered roller bearings for Minis and we used to see plenty of failures which were caused during fitting.