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metro electronic dizzy wiring, HOW?


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#16 Road Runner

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Posted 25 April 2007 - 07:53 PM

Guy's I have been trying to wire up mine and can't get it to run at the moment, I'll check the coil and see if it's the right one but as H&H supplied it to go with the Dizzy the did for me I presume it is ok. If you suppost to leave off the white & Pink wire which has the white and yellow attached to it waht is the purpose of the yellow and white which coes from the starter.

#17 Jupitus

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Posted 25 April 2007 - 08:07 PM

Ah yes there's that old favourite stupid wiring diagram again. Why exactly do you now have both a ballasted and an unballasted supply feeding your coil?

If you are going to change to unballasted ignition disconnect the pink/white and white/yellow from the original wiring to the coil and insulate the ends, taping the wires securely back to the loom. Then run your new circuit as in the diagram to replace these.
If you are going to retain ballasted ignition leave the pink/white and white/yellow supplying the ballasted coil and run the new circuit as in the diagram but DON'T connect it to the coil, ONLY connect it to the module supply wire from the dizzy. You don't need both systems.



I'm quoting from earlier, RoadRunner, but is your answer in this post?

#18 Road Runner

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Posted 25 April 2007 - 08:16 PM

Yep It's basicly what it's like, going to try again tomorrow evening.
Just checked the coil and it's a DLB198 whic came with it but I also have a gold coil DBC105, what is that one for? says 12v

Edited by Road Runner, 25 April 2007 - 09:11 PM.


#19 Dan

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Posted 25 April 2007 - 09:38 PM

Pink/white is ballasted supply. White/yellow is cranking ballast bypass, part of what the ballast system is there for. Actually the main reason the ballast system exists.

Edited by Dan, 25 April 2007 - 09:39 PM.


#20 Road Runner

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Posted 26 April 2007 - 06:59 AM

It's been pointed out that the dizzy drive should be rotated a tooth! is this what I might be missing?, I need to check this again in the metro manual I have as I did see that in there.

#21 Road Runner

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Posted 26 April 2007 - 06:06 PM

I gave it another try tonight after. Mover the drive round 1 tooth as per manual. Set the timing static and got a spark well more like a continious arc which seemed a bit suspicious to me but finished putting it back together and started it. Ran like a bag of nails like it was on a couple of cylinders tried to check the timeing again but got no spark at all. It's not back on points and running ok. I am rather suspicious there is a probelm with Dizzy as when it was delivred it was left over the back gate which is 6foot high so it must have been dropped a good 4foot. Think I will send it back to H&H to be checked over again. Really pissed off wih it all at tha moment. >>_<

#22 James_1

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Posted 26 April 2007 - 07:32 PM

okay, when i fitted mine i just ran a new wire from the ignition fuse to the positive on the coil and ran the dizzy from the coil too. white on dizzy to positive on the coil and white/black on the dizzy to negative and so far i've had no trouble at all. i guess this is unbalasted!

#23 Road Runner

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 08:38 PM

Sorry to drag this up again but I found out the problem, after sending it back to H & H they told me the amp was playing up so they replaced it. I got it back today and fitted it to RR set it up, turned the key and up she fired. I have had it running for a few min's but will finish off sorting it out over the weekend.

#24 Petes.one

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Posted 12 May 2007 - 08:00 AM

Just to add to the comments made so far - I fitted the MG Metro electronic unit to my mini last year as part of an engine conversion. I took the dizzy and coil to an electronics engineer for testing before fitting. The coil was a Ducellier (520067A/K6) and found to be faulty. I was given a replacement Lucas 32C5 coil, which has Primary resistance of 0.71 to 0.81 ohms. The Ducellier was rated at 0.70 to 0.86 ohms.

To avoid any issues with any ballast resistance that may or may not have been in the wiring loom, I ran another wire from the ignition to the positive side of the coil and left the original loom connection disconnected and taped off. The unit fired up first start and has not missed a beat.

The Minispares recommnded coil for the 65DM4 electronic ignition is the GCL143 - also rated at 0.70 to 0.86ohms.

Non ballasted coils for points systems are rated at 3.0 to 3.5 ohms, while ballasted coils are rated 1.2 to 1.5ohms.

If in doubt about the coil, try a Google search to check the rated resistance, and determine its application from that.

Good luck!

#25 skyrosemini

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Posted 30 May 2007 - 07:09 PM

hey i have just done the conversion myself do u want a copy of the wiring diagram for the metro dizzy if you
do let me know

Thanks Chewy


Hello
Im a new member and i need a copy of this diagram to in order to save whats left of my hair.Could you email me a copy?.The engines an ordinary Metro 1275 (12HE).
Thanks bundles in advance!.
Martin
[email protected]




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