12 replies to this topic

[Vurt]

Hi all,

I'll apologise in advance for the lack of info in this rather speculative question but...

i stuck a stage one kit on my 92 sprite the other week (thanks to the folk who helped me with my newb questions on this forum). at the rolling road which returned a MASSIVE 53 BHP the guy that did said mentioned i had an oil leak in the gear linkage.

He also reckoned that this is really common and you could but a "thing" that you could fit that would sort it out. I know thats a rubbish amount of info, but i don;t suppose anyone migyht have an idea of what this mythical part is?

Cheers

Rich

[Xiao_Bin]

there is a repair kit, including oil seal and a rubber gaiter, cost about 4 or 7£ i forgot from minispares

[Vurt]

there is a repair kit, including oil seal and a rubber gaiter, cost about 4 or 7£ i forgot from minispares

this you mean?

http://www.minispare....aspx?kid=35775

Cheers

[Xiao_Bin]

yeah that one, i was looking for the link
There is an article in a minimag where its detailed how to install it

[Vurt]

yeah that one, i was looking for the link
There is an article in a minimag where its detailed how to install it

Mini spares search is a bit C**p at the best of times! Didn't see the article unfortunately, would have been useful seeing as i'm a mechanical novice... oh well trusty haines will sort me out

[Big_Adam]

I tell you now Vurt, this is a *Female doggy* of a job to do. Main problem is the roll pin that hold the selector rod to the gearbox. You go to get it out. Use the correct size punch. Don't try to half ass it with one you have kicking about.

Apart from that it isn't too bad. The wee rubber seal is a bit of a sod to get out. Use a socket or somthing similar to press in the new seal. Place the seal in place then put the socket over that then tap with a hammer to drive the seal in nice.

[Vurt]

I tell you now Vurt, this is a *Female doggy* of a job to do. Main problem is the roll pin that hold the selector rod to the gearbox. You go to get it out. Use the correct size punch. Don't try to half ass it with one you have kicking about.

Apart from that it isn't too bad. The wee rubber seal is a bit of a sod to get out. Use a socket or somthing similar to press in the new seal. Place the seal in place then put the socket over that then tap with a hammer to drive the seal in nice.

cheers for the advice Big Adam!

[Dan]

You should find you already have the centering ring in your gearbox as it is a standard part on late cars that Mini Spares simply copied and started selling as a kit for earlier cars. This is what increases the life of the actual seal but the standard one is Nylon rather than alloy. You probably just need a new seal. Search the site for instructions, this has been discussed a lot of times.

Edited by Dan, 23 March 2007 - 03:43 PM.

[TOMMO0302]

Any advice on getting the metal centring ring out? I had a job getting the seal out and thought phew, all done then came across that! Its still in there...

[PLW]

Im in the same boat at the moment, built and fitted an engine then had the repair kit left over...oooops.. going to have a go at fitting it this weekend. I take it you have to drain the oil to do it? Had bother with the car jumping out of 4th and was told that people just keep packing it with new seals instead of replacing it causing 2nd and 4th to jump out of gear???

Anyone heard of this??

[Dan]

It can do that or simply refuse gear changes because the shaft can't move far enough. Sometimes people try to add the ally spacer on top of the Nylon one not realising it is there which has the same effect as stacking the seals. Stacked seals isn't just laziness though, it was the fix for the problem before the spacer kit was available.

It is very uncommon to need to remove and replace the alloy or Nylon spacer. It would take many years of use to wear one out. All it does is hold the shaft central in the seal to prevent the seal getting distorted in use and leaking as a result. It is wise to replace the spacer during a rebuild since it has to come out to withdraw the shaft anyway but isn't needed every time you replace the seal. So long as the spacer is still limiting the radial movement of the shaft properly it is fine.

Edited by Dan, 23 March 2007 - 11:31 PM.

[Guess-Works.com]

Im in the same boat at the moment, built and fitted an engine then had the repair kit left over...oooops.. going to have a go at fitting it this weekend. I take it you have to drain the oil to do it? Had bother with the car jumping out of 4th and was told that people just keep packing it with new seals instead of replacing it causing 2nd and 4th to jump out of gear???

Anyone heard of this??

Unfortunately your symptoms have nothing to do with the seal ( and that wont fix the issue )

Jumping out of gear is generally connected with a knackered gearbox... to put it bluntly... there are a number of things which can cause it, from relaxing of the detent ball and spring on the selector rod... worn/broken synchro hubs... worn doogteeth... or infact as in a twin point gearbox I've just rebuilt, complete failure of the mainshaft !

[PLW]

Im in the same boat at the moment, built and fitted an engine then had the repair kit left over...oooops.. going to have a go at fitting it this weekend. I take it you have to drain the oil to do it? Had bother with the car jumping out of 4th and was told that people just keep packing it with new seals instead of replacing it causing 2nd and 4th to jump out of gear???

Anyone heard of this??

Unfortunately your symptoms have nothing to do with the seal ( and that wont fix the issue )

Jumping out of gear is generally connected with a knackered gearbox... to put it bluntly... there are a number of things which can cause it, from relaxing of the detent ball and spring on the selector rod... worn/broken synchro hubs... worn doogteeth... or infact as in a twin point gearbox I've just rebuilt, complete failure of the mainshaft !

Well thats put a downer on things!!