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Rebuilt engine bedding


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#1 Clubby1275GT

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 10:49 AM

Right im in the process of buying Topi's engine from his project mini, spec is

> +20 overbore, brand new pistons and rings,
> lightened and balanced crank by DKE,
> race preppeed connecting rods (arrow precision),
> SW5 camshaft(7000rpm baby!!),
> new cam followers, new valves, guides and springs,
> new duplex timing kit, skimmed, ported and polished head,
> copper head gasket, rebuilt gearbox with 3.1 ratio,
> new pumps and filters, new rad and hoses,
> all new core plugs,
> maniflow 1.75" single box full system and LCB manifold.

Topi has had the engine turned over but not had it running as of yet.

hopefully will be picking it up over the weekend if i can find a car that will not bottom out with it in the back!!

what the procedure once its in, ive done some searches and opinions seem to vary, but the general concencus seems to be 50 miles of taking it easy with cheapo oil, then 250 again oil and filter changed for more cheapo oil, then after that bobs your uncle?!?!
im vary wary of the turn the engine on with no water, im going white at just the thought, but if it does the trick ill have to just cross my fingers!!

anything i should know or do in advance?? any one recommend any serious DONT's or DO's??

sounds like a nerve racking experience but hopefully will be worth it in the end

I use the car as my daily drive so was wondering on tips to get the mileage up quick whilst bedding it in, i do the drive to the train station and back every day, about 4 mile round trip with more evening driving.
or it it best to just do a 50 mile trip at once, change the oil, then a 250 miles ttrip with varying speeds to get it over and done with?

Daz

#2 incrediblerog

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 10:55 AM

250 miles would be a very long trip!

#3 TimS

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 11:02 AM

Everyone usually has their own idea of how to bed engines in.

How I do it is to use cheap oil for the first 1000 milest. On start up with a new cam I hold it at above 2000rpm around 20 mins then check everything is ok.

I like to vary the load on the engine in traffic throughout the bedding in period, but never let the engine rev above 3000rpm for the first 250 miles. The change the oil and filter, then off again for another 250 miles staying around 3500 to 4000rpm.
Long motorway journeys through the bedding in period are not a good idea as the engine just sits at the same load and rpm.

After 500 miles take it easy on the amount of revs it get up to 1000miles.

This is my way but other vary massivly, I have read that some people give it full wack from start up..

Edited by Flappyplasticbits, 28 March 2007 - 11:06 AM.


#4 Dog

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 11:05 AM

Everyone usually has their own idea of how to bed engines in.

Hw I do it is to use cheap oil for the first 500 miles as least. On start up with a new cam I hold it at about 4000rpm around 5 mins then check everything is ok.

I like to vary the load on the engine in traffic throughout the bedding in period, but never let the engine rev above 3000rpm for the first 250 miles. The change the oil and filter, then off again for another 250 miles staying around 3500 to 4000rpm.
Long motorway journeys through the bedding in period are not a good idea as the engine just sits at the same load and rpm.

After 500 miles take it easy on the amount of revs it get up to 1000miles.

This is my way but other vary massivly, I have read that some people give it full wack from start up..

Snap!

Totally agree with the above other than, when bedding in a new cam - it should be run at 2000rpm for 20mins, otherwise the cam could "weld" itself to the followers... (from what I've heard and been told anyways)

#5 TimS

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 11:07 AM

This will give you an excelent explenation PUMA RACING BEDDING IN

#6 Clubby1275GT

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 11:11 AM

can anyone confirm the above???
any preference on fuel used?? cheap ******* or optimax??

so whats the best way to split the mileage?? stay away from motorways do b roads, not going above 3000rpm?

should oil changes be 50miles/250 miles/250 miles then drive as normal with good oil???

#7 TimS

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 11:17 AM

I would see if you can get soem specific bedding in oil. petrol just use your standard 95ron. I changed the oil in mine at 250, 500 and 1000miles at 1000 miles I went for higher grade 20/50w.

You have got to think that there will be the most metal wearing in from start to 250 miles and as you do more miles the less wearing in the engine will have to do so less need for fresh oil.

#8 danwebster

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 11:28 AM

I used 6000 revs for the first 500 miles, whilst I let it rev I made sure I didn't labour the engine. I ran it on the cheapest unipart oil money can buy and did one change during the 500 miles. I let the max revs increase gradually over those 500 miles, making my way to 6k after about 200....

After that I put pucka oil in it and took it straight to the rollers where it made 160brake at almost 8000rpm and its still going strong.

#9 TimS

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 11:33 AM

What crank and engine bearings do you use Dan? I would presume they have tighter tollerances than most?

#10 fatmini

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 11:34 AM

I have just had a new engine and gear box very similar to your spec! and this is what i did

use strait 30 running in oil for the first 500miles not taking it above 3.5k NO MOTORWAY THO then change the oil with 20w50 and then run it in for another 500 taking it 4.5k NO MOTORWAY AGAIN then change the oil and filter again and then go mad !!!

#11 t@z

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 11:58 AM

on my turbo i used running in oil. you can get it from mosses

#12 Clubby1275GT

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 12:53 PM

just means ill have to learn to not drive like a loon through the gears, no down changing for bends etc for the first 1000miles, how does it feel with a new engine then, as most people say u can feel when its loosened up!

what is the reason for using the shittest oil money can buy when first running then?? is it to make sure friction does occur to remove any excess metal??

#13 fatmini

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 01:10 PM

well its not about how good or bad the oil is its about what the purpose of the oil is,running in oil is very thin ( bit like water)

this allows all the metal sufaces to match and wear evenly (i think ) then the 20w50 reduces the wear for longer life of the engine components (i may have this totaly wrong !!!lol)


also u can get running in oil from "Ernest Doe's" the tracker place for about £10 for 5 litres


not realy noticed it loosen up !

#14 TimS

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 01:27 PM

I never really noticed the engine loosen up. I would not use a thin oil to bed the engine in as the gearbox still require a high viscosity to run. Using a low viscosity oil will reduce the life of the gearbox.
You use a low grade oil due to the increased friction it gives. What you are trying to do is wear the parts in together, removing any high spots.

Edited by Flappyplasticbits, 28 March 2007 - 01:28 PM.


#15 danwebster

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Posted 28 March 2007 - 04:40 PM

I've always run vandervell comp bearings as the standard bearings are only good for 7000rpm.

Crank is an EN40b forging.




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