Bad Girl Mega Mini - Back on the Road!!
Started by
Jules
, Oct 24 2004 08:30 PM
22 replies to this topic
#16
Jules
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Posted 25 October 2004 - 12:14 PM
Their Yoko A048r cut slicks. On page 2 of mini chat I got a post up of all the stuff that went on her!!
#17
Jules
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Posted 02 November 2004 - 02:12 PM
well this weekend, Rich cut the metal parcel shelf for bigger speakers and made a new parcel shelf out of MDF. Then fitted it into my mini, he took the rear screen out to get them in, they look really sweet now, and the sound quality is really really good.
The only problem was that the guy gave us the wrong wondow seal, it was for the front windscreen so unfortunately we had to cut it, but it took hours to get the screen back in, and the tool you use to get the silver thing round ( dont know what its called) well it broke so getting it in made things very difficult, it was dark by now and we needed the screen seal in to drive up to brum that night, it then got to the point where we had to ask our neighbours for a metal coat hanger, and make our own tool. It worked and by 7 o'clock that night it was all fitted, not to bad since we started at 11.
but I want to say a big thanks to my Rich for all the hard work he put into my mini on sunday!
The only problem was that the guy gave us the wrong wondow seal, it was for the front windscreen so unfortunately we had to cut it, but it took hours to get the screen back in, and the tool you use to get the silver thing round ( dont know what its called) well it broke so getting it in made things very difficult, it was dark by now and we needed the screen seal in to drive up to brum that night, it then got to the point where we had to ask our neighbours for a metal coat hanger, and make our own tool. It worked and by 7 o'clock that night it was all fitted, not to bad since we started at 11.
but I want to say a big thanks to my Rich for all the hard work he put into my mini on sunday!
#18
EVO6RSS
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Posted 02 November 2004 - 05:11 PM
No worries monkey..
The 6x9's do sound a lot better than the crapola that was fitted before.. 6.5 in mids and twetters in the front will really make the big difference.
Back out in the cold then monkey.. LOL! :fear:
Rich.
The 6x9's do sound a lot better than the crapola that was fitted before.. 6.5 in mids and twetters in the front will really make the big difference.
Back out in the cold then monkey.. LOL! :fear:
Rich.
#19
miniman5
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Posted 02 November 2004 - 05:26 PM
Nice!!! :grin: are them tyres any good in the wett??
#20
EVO6RSS
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Posted 03 November 2004 - 08:49 AM
Miniman5,
The yoko's are nothing short of awesome in the dry or wet. The only thing they really don't like is standing water, the grip offered will give lap times that are about 1/2 sec off a full slick.
As a point to note, sticky rubber will only offer an advantage upto a point. It is no use having the best tyres in the world if your dampers, subframe mounts, subframe mounting points, brakes etc are corroded worn out or shot to pieces.
I would upgrade suspension and brakes before power on any car.
On a mini I would recomend doing the brakes before anything else. Uprated pads and lines will be fine on a standard ish power mini. After that KAD 4 pots are the way to go with minifins or KAD rear disc brake conversion.
Suspension wise:
1. Solid front subframe kit. (You don't need sold tear drops at the front standard are fine). You will need to have sandwich plates welded into the front floor, this stops the metal subframe mounts cracking the mounting points.
2. Deflex rear subframe kit, this will solidly locate the rear subframe.
With the above the suspension actually has a stable platform to perform best on.
Next:
1. Hi-Lows - get good ones not the cheap C**p you set at shows.. Mini spares are the origional and the ones I would recomend. Set your ride height before adjusting any suspension geometry settings, there is a direct and relationship between ride height and camber caster settings and also to a toe settings. Also the Hi-Lows have a bigger sholder and give and increase in spring rate. helpfull on the later mini's with softer doughnuts.
2. Adjustable uprated tie bars with deflex(rose jointed ones are a waste of money on a road car imho, but will offer gains over a deflex mounted tie bar in terms of acurate caster settings).
3. Neg camber bottom arms. 1 1/2 deg will be sufficent. The negitive camber arms will give you more front grip and better/sharper turn in if coupled with the correct front toe in/toe out settings. Run the front paralell or 1/2 deg of toe out to improve turn in.
4. Rear Camber/toe brackets brackets - about 1/2 deg neg on the back, to much rear camber will generate too much rear grip and can generate understeer. Same for rear toe in. About 1/2 deg rear toe to running parrellel will be fine. Do not run toe out on the rear as this will make the car inclinded to oversteer mid corner and be very twitchy on the limit. Again rear toe in generates rear grip.
Next:
5. Uprated dampers if you want them.. The standard mini damper will be OK as long as it is new and working well. Spax, Avo etc are OK on a road car, the better valving means that damper can control the tyre/road contact patch better. (i.e the tyre is actually in contact with the road.. LOL!) The adjustment on these dampers is limited to say the least and you can only adjust rebound settings. Don't run anymore than 4 clicks on the road or the rebound will be far to high and you will find yourself taking off.
6. Expensive tyres.. It is possible to over a tyre a mini. The sports pack minis suffer from this. If you run 10's or 12's you should be ok and will still be able to get the mini to 4 wheel drift out of corners with the right suspension settings. You need a tyre that will be progressive on the limit and let you know when it is about to let go, the yoko's are very good in this respect.
Thats about it really. Any questions reply or PM.
Cheers,
Rich.
The yoko's are nothing short of awesome in the dry or wet. The only thing they really don't like is standing water, the grip offered will give lap times that are about 1/2 sec off a full slick.
As a point to note, sticky rubber will only offer an advantage upto a point. It is no use having the best tyres in the world if your dampers, subframe mounts, subframe mounting points, brakes etc are corroded worn out or shot to pieces.
I would upgrade suspension and brakes before power on any car.
On a mini I would recomend doing the brakes before anything else. Uprated pads and lines will be fine on a standard ish power mini. After that KAD 4 pots are the way to go with minifins or KAD rear disc brake conversion.
Suspension wise:
1. Solid front subframe kit. (You don't need sold tear drops at the front standard are fine). You will need to have sandwich plates welded into the front floor, this stops the metal subframe mounts cracking the mounting points.
2. Deflex rear subframe kit, this will solidly locate the rear subframe.
With the above the suspension actually has a stable platform to perform best on.
Next:
1. Hi-Lows - get good ones not the cheap C**p you set at shows.. Mini spares are the origional and the ones I would recomend. Set your ride height before adjusting any suspension geometry settings, there is a direct and relationship between ride height and camber caster settings and also to a toe settings. Also the Hi-Lows have a bigger sholder and give and increase in spring rate. helpfull on the later mini's with softer doughnuts.
2. Adjustable uprated tie bars with deflex(rose jointed ones are a waste of money on a road car imho, but will offer gains over a deflex mounted tie bar in terms of acurate caster settings).
3. Neg camber bottom arms. 1 1/2 deg will be sufficent. The negitive camber arms will give you more front grip and better/sharper turn in if coupled with the correct front toe in/toe out settings. Run the front paralell or 1/2 deg of toe out to improve turn in.
4. Rear Camber/toe brackets brackets - about 1/2 deg neg on the back, to much rear camber will generate too much rear grip and can generate understeer. Same for rear toe in. About 1/2 deg rear toe to running parrellel will be fine. Do not run toe out on the rear as this will make the car inclinded to oversteer mid corner and be very twitchy on the limit. Again rear toe in generates rear grip.
Next:
5. Uprated dampers if you want them.. The standard mini damper will be OK as long as it is new and working well. Spax, Avo etc are OK on a road car, the better valving means that damper can control the tyre/road contact patch better. (i.e the tyre is actually in contact with the road.. LOL!) The adjustment on these dampers is limited to say the least and you can only adjust rebound settings. Don't run anymore than 4 clicks on the road or the rebound will be far to high and you will find yourself taking off.
6. Expensive tyres.. It is possible to over a tyre a mini. The sports pack minis suffer from this. If you run 10's or 12's you should be ok and will still be able to get the mini to 4 wheel drift out of corners with the right suspension settings. You need a tyre that will be progressive on the limit and let you know when it is about to let go, the yoko's are very good in this respect.
Thats about it really. Any questions reply or PM.
Cheers,
Rich.
#21
jeffberg
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Mini Mad
Posted 05 November 2004 - 04:19 AM
are those exhaust lights necessary in england?
#22
tipcat
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Posted 05 November 2004 - 08:37 PM
They're rear fog lights, Jeffberg, and unfortunately, they are required over here!
#23
Madmax
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Posted 05 November 2004 - 08:44 PM
yup, a legal requirement for any car made after 1972. hehe mines exempt
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