New Calipers
Started by
TrialsLife
, Apr 04 2007 08:27 AM
9 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 04 April 2007 - 08:27 AM
Currently I have a pair of metro 4 pot calipers on my mini. They are starting to bind alot on the disks.
Should I
Buy new metro 4 pots with disks and pads
Buy mini sport 4 pot alloy caliper with disk and pads
or
Get a KAD 4 pot set up on there.
Is there that much difference other than weight between the metro and mini sport/kad
Cheers.
Should I
Buy new metro 4 pots with disks and pads
Buy mini sport 4 pot alloy caliper with disk and pads
or
Get a KAD 4 pot set up on there.
Is there that much difference other than weight between the metro and mini sport/kad
Cheers.
#2
Posted 04 April 2007 - 08:39 AM
The pad and (as far as I know) piston size is the same for all 3 calipers, however, the MiniSport 4 pots run a slightly smaller disk, with the pad moved inboard a little, so that may reduce braking efficiency a little.
Main difference is weight really (looks too I guess).
If you're existing 4 pots are binding, the best option is probably to just get them serviced?
Main difference is weight really (looks too I guess).
If you're existing 4 pots are binding, the best option is probably to just get them serviced?
#3
Posted 04 April 2007 - 09:38 AM
There are snapped bleed nipples on the calipers I have aswell. I can get new calipers for £50 each.
I thought you could get the mini sport calipers in 7.9"
I thought you could get the mini sport calipers in 7.9"
#4
Posted 04 April 2007 - 09:43 AM
Yup the Minisport ones that I have are 7.9", but the pad is moved slightly inward from the standard 8.4" Metro Turbo 4 pots (only a few mm) which means that is working aon a slightly smaller diameter. Realistically, nobody would really notice the difference I guess?? But you will lose a tiny bit of stopping power from the pad being moved inward.
#5
Posted 04 April 2007 - 09:49 AM
Would it be just be a case of taking the old calipers and disks off or would I have to change the drive flanges because of the metro 4 pot conversion?
I'm currently running the car without a servo, do they make that much of a difference. Whats the best servo to get?
I'm going to be installing a hydralic handbrake into the car along with the cable operated one. I'm going to be routing the hosing inside the car, is it worth using braided hosing through it all or just on the exposed parts where rocks could catch them?
Final question whats the best way to route all the hosing, is there a specific order if I were to use a servo and hydralic handbrake.
Cheers for the advice so far.
I'm currently running the car without a servo, do they make that much of a difference. Whats the best servo to get?
I'm going to be installing a hydralic handbrake into the car along with the cable operated one. I'm going to be routing the hosing inside the car, is it worth using braided hosing through it all or just on the exposed parts where rocks could catch them?
Final question whats the best way to route all the hosing, is there a specific order if I were to use a servo and hydralic handbrake.
Cheers for the advice so far.
#6
Posted 04 April 2007 - 10:01 AM
Wowzers, right:
The Minisport ones run on normal mini drive flanges, it's best to speak to them about the use of Metro flanges, my thoughts are that the caliper may not sit centrally over the disk.
All a servo will do is reduce pedal effort, not increase stopping power as such. Fit one if your leg aches!
I would not use braded hoses inside the car where the brake lines don't need any flexibility, I'd use a normal copper line throughout, apart from where the existing flexi-hoses are.
If you use a hydraulic handbrake though, you will also need a secondary type of parking brake for the MOT etc. (ie a cable operated parking brake).
Routing will depend on the type of brake circuit that you currently have, just keep the connections the same etc. just with the pipes inside the car instead of underneath!
The Minisport ones run on normal mini drive flanges, it's best to speak to them about the use of Metro flanges, my thoughts are that the caliper may not sit centrally over the disk.
All a servo will do is reduce pedal effort, not increase stopping power as such. Fit one if your leg aches!
I would not use braded hoses inside the car where the brake lines don't need any flexibility, I'd use a normal copper line throughout, apart from where the existing flexi-hoses are.
If you use a hydraulic handbrake though, you will also need a secondary type of parking brake for the MOT etc. (ie a cable operated parking brake).
Routing will depend on the type of brake circuit that you currently have, just keep the connections the same etc. just with the pipes inside the car instead of underneath!
#7
Posted 04 April 2007 - 10:13 AM
Cheers for all that.
I'm buying a mini write off soon with normal drive flanges so I'll just use them.
I think I'll leave the servo, I like stamping on the brake anyway never bothers me.
Cheers for the help mate.
I'm buying a mini write off soon with normal drive flanges so I'll just use them.
I think I'll leave the servo, I like stamping on the brake anyway never bothers me.
Cheers for the help mate.
#8
Posted 04 April 2007 - 07:20 PM
if your thinking about going for alloy calipers why not use minispares ones? not only do they run on your current 8.4" discs but you can also keep the drive flanges that you are currently using.
#9
Posted 15 May 2007 - 08:09 AM
What are the mini spares calipers like compared to the mini sport ones?
I would like to keep 8.4" brakes as they would be more powerfull.
I would like to keep 8.4" brakes as they would be more powerfull.
#10
Posted 15 May 2007 - 09:43 PM
Another question, what size bore of master cylinder should I use? Looking at 0.75
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