16 replies to this topic

[insamoufonyx]

Basically, my mini has standard suspension but am considering upgrading it but i have no idea about suspension at all so don't even know where to start looking!

Any advice/info on this grate full, can be fairly technical as i'm a full time defense aerospace engineer lol!

[*DJH*]

It depends on how far you want to take it really, what application is this for?

Edit: sorry, where's my manners. Welcome to TMF

Edited by DJH MINI MOTORSPORT, 24 April 2007 - 07:55 PM.

[mark clark]

It does depend how far you want to go and what sort of budget you have too.

The 1st step would probably be to replace the dampers for adjustable items and swap the suspension bushes for stiffer polyurethane ones.

Ideally an adjustable set-up would be the way to go, with adjustable tie bars,front lower arms and rear negative camber brackets:-

http://http://www.mi....aspx?pid=38461

http://www.minisport...it-product.html

Then you could always lower the car but then you have to buy different dampers and it all depends on what size wheel/tyre combo you're using too!

How long's a piece of string???!!!

[insamoufonyx]

already got adjustable tie bars,front lower arms and rear negative camber brackets what sort of adjustable suspension? coil overs? and what exactly are hi-lows?

Im running 13x7's on my mini rio and its goinf to be used for normal road use

[Minwah]

adjustable suspension? coil overs? and what exactly are hi-lows?

Adjustable shocks, you already have adjustable tie bars & I assume your camber brackets are adjustable (?)

Hi-lo's allow you to adjust the ride height of the car, which is pretty much a must imo

[mark clark]

These are examples of what you're after:-

http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=37151

http://www.minisport...em-product.html

They replace the alloy suspension trumpets and allow the ride height to be adjusted. To install the front ones though will need a cone spring compressing tool. The rears are straightforward enough to install though.

I'd say this is a must for your particular set up, seeing as you already have adjustable elements in your suspension. You also didn't say if you had adjustable dampers fitted?

Then of course get the whole alignment set up correctly and the handling should be transformed.

[biggav]

or.... just get rid of the ruber cones and get some coil overs... you can then get rid of your rusty rear subframe and get a nice rear beam!!!!!!! mmmmm

[mark clark]

see that's the trouble with posting on here.............there's no telling where it'll end up!

i was thinking rear beam myself but where does it all stop?????!!!!!!!

[biggav]

see that's the trouble with posting on here.............there's no telling where it'll end up!

i was thinking rear beam myself but where does it all stop?????!!!!!!!

I had a rusty subframe and a good second hand one at a scrappy was £85..... I have 13 X 8 on the back with 205/50 dunlops which were touching the radius arm bracket a little when the car was jacke up.... the rear beam moved the wheel back in the arch a bit so i had to fettle the back out and the inner arches are being "tubbed" as the coils were catching a bit.... also my front sub is being altered to allow it to run lower.. i have tiny 13 X7 on the front with 195/45 dulops.

All in all, it should hopefully mean that i never have to change a rear subframe again, nor worry about changing cones.... Car is too low to get on the rolling road now though.... were going to try and lift it on

[Guess-Works.com]

If you already have fully adjustable setup, then spend some money with a suspension specialist getting it all set up properly, with attention to camber, castor toe in/out... and more importantly corner weights ( which HILO's will help with )

[Minwah]

or.... just get rid of the ruber cones and get some coil overs... you can then get rid of your rusty rear subframe and get a nice rear beam!!!!!!! mmmmm

More hassle than it's worth if you ask me

[taffy1967]

I agree because I've had Adjusta-ride Suspension and Gas Spax adjustable dampers fitted all round on my Mini for over 11 years and haven't had any problems. Plus it goes around corners with barely any body-roll (I've only got the dampers turned up a few clicks too) and yet the ride is still reasonably comfortable.

If you find that your rubber springs/donuts have sagged or collapsed then it's worth fitting replacements and Mini Spares are probably the best place to get them from since they stock genuine O/E Moulton/Dunlop types. Cheap after-market copies have been known to collapse in no time.

With the Mini Sport Adjusta-Ride kit you also get new knuckle joints and cups too and that's something you generally don't get with Hi-los. At least I don't think so anyway?

Edited by taffy1967, 26 April 2007 - 05:48 PM.

[insamoufonyx]

right, basicly from reading all your info i think hi lo's would suit me best, what else do i need and are they easy to fit??

Cheers

[taffy1967]

Your going to need a cone compressor for a start and possibly knuckle joints too if your using Hi-Lo's?

[Scarface]

cud u live with smaller wheels? seriouslly ask urself this question the benefits of smaller wheels are vast, less wear, cheaper tyres, unsprung weight etc. anything over 5.5" wide is not needed on normal minis racers, vtecs etc need it to put the power down but 165 tyres are suggested by yoko to only go up to 5.5 but alot of people like the 6" deep dish and are more readily available in different designs. Goin down to 12s also means u can run camber on a road car with 13" u want them parrallel really and the reduction in width will reduce tramliing aswell. However if ur set on big wide wheels or have a sportpack or something then fair enough, but even this u cud drop to 12x6's not ideal but still better or go the whole way n get sum 10x5.5 split rims mmmmmm!

And if uv got fully adjustable suspension (far from standard, we all wish it was) then get evrythig set up rite, camber, castor, toe in/out

Edited by Scarface, 03 May 2007 - 03:03 PM.