Good price?
#1
Posted 11 May 2007 - 12:15 PM
Below are the prices I've been quoted - fitted - good or bad? The first four are things he says should be done pretty soon, and definately before my 200 mile round trip to Download in June..
Offside lower ball joint (worn out) - £25
Offside track rod end rown out - £28
Nearside front subframe floor mounting split - £30
tracking - £15
Nearside rear radius arm worn - £75
Exhaust joint at manifold - new clamp needed £20
rear exhaust mounting - £10
He also advised to get a completely new exhaust - a full set - because it's got the standard pipe coming down from the engine and along the underneath - and they've cut into it in the past and added the sportsbox and twin exhaust which he says is alright but it's best to keep it all the same.
Any advice like? I'm only going on what he's said, I might go get a second opinion anyway just because I can.
#2
Posted 11 May 2007 - 12:54 PM
A track rod end is about 8 pounds too I think
Tracking is something you will have to get done by a garage as there are specialist tools and 15 quid sounds quite cheap but i bet it will be more if he doesnt fit the track rod end
Sub frame mounts are about 10 quid too I seam to remember and 30 pounds sounds quite a bit to fit it as its quite a simple job.
Can really comment on the other bits as have not replaced them, but I would guess that a standard exhaust may loose you power over what you have now, or at very least sound different.
Hope that helps. Depends how handy you are with a spanner and most of those things arent too hard to do if you get your self a Hanes manule and go through the stages.
#3
Posted 11 May 2007 - 01:39 PM
I think last time i bought a ball joint kit it was about 8 or 9 pounds for a pair
A track rod end is about 8 pounds too I think
Tracking is something you will have to get done by a garage as there are specialist tools and 15 quid sounds quite cheap but i bet it will be more if he doesnt fit the track rod end
Sub frame mounts are about 10 quid too I seam to remember and 30 pounds sounds quite a bit to fit it as its quite a simple job.
Can really comment on the other bits as have not replaced them, but I would guess that a standard exhaust may loose you power over what you have now, or at very least sound different.
Hope that helps. Depends how handy you are with a spanner and most of those things arent too hard to do if you get your self a Hanes manule and go through the stages.
If you don't own a ball joint separator then you'll have to get one and they range between £10 and £20 depending on type. plus any other tools you don't have.... Rear radius arms need machinening out when you refurb them.
To be honest, those prices are very reasonable and you'd still need to have the tracking set up afterwards.... i'd be letting him do it and going to work for the day while its being done to pay for it.
#4
Posted 12 May 2007 - 06:45 AM
Nearside front subframe floor mounting split - £30
If he means the mounting itself needs replacing, that seems slightly OTT as it's not a big job to change.
If he means the floor itself where the bolts come through has split then that's a good price to get that sorted.
All in all I think he's being very fair with his prices. I don't think you'll find anywhere else as cheap to be perfectly honest. And at least he's used to working on minis.
The tracking is a good price. I pay £15 where I take my cars.
#5
Posted 12 May 2007 - 09:48 AM
#6
Posted 12 May 2007 - 10:11 AM
#7
Posted 12 May 2007 - 09:01 PM
Cheers
#8
Posted 12 May 2007 - 09:31 PM
Steve's a good guy. I always found him very fair and knowledgeable when I used him. If you decide to let him do the work, see if you can be there when he does at least some of it. Then invest in a Haynes manual and a few basic tools. A fair amount of those jobs on the list you could do yourself with a few tools and a bit of time.
#9
Posted 12 May 2007 - 09:35 PM
Not a problem. Glad you got sorted with the deathtrap. Think you had a lucky escape!
Steve's a good guy. I always found him very fair and knowledgeable when I used him. If you decide to let him do the work, see if you can be there when he does at least some of it. Then invest in a Haynes manual and a few basic tools. A fair amount of those jobs on the list you could do yourself with a few tools and a bit of time.
Yeah, I've got a haynes maunal but to be honest finding it quote hard to understand... then again it is my first car. I might even think about enrolling myself on a local mechanic course if theres any available anywhere, even if it's just a basic insight into it all.
#10
Posted 12 May 2007 - 10:11 PM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users