13 replies to this topic

[Monstrous]

Right since starting the engine up after putting it back in, it's running pretty well, but fuelling is out as it's got a stage one fitted so needs to be RR'd.

anyway, it's running pretty well none-the-less so everything is connected up properly i guess, but when i started it up today i noticed fuel coming out of the breather pipe, the one that runs down over the flywheel housing and down past the subframe. Now looking at the pictures i took before the engine came out it appears that i have this breather connected to where it was before (to the pipe on the float chamber next to the fuel inlet pipe( is this correct?

If i've got it connected up right, is this normal? or is there to much fuel coming in and the float could possibly be stuck and not closing when it fills up?

If it is the latter then i guess i need to remove the carb and fix it, which isn't too much of a problem as i was planning on rebuilding the carb, but if it's something simple than i'd rather fix it now and leave the carb rebuild for a bit.

any help appreciated

M

[Big_Adam]

Right, thats not a breather its an OVERFLOW pipe.

Means either the needle valve is stuck or the float has a hole in it.

So yeah, got to rip it off and fix it. Either grind the valve in or...erm....new float and valve.

[Monstrous]

Right, thats not a breather its an OVERFLOW pipe.

Means either the needle valve is stuck or the float has a hole in it.

So yeah, got to rip it off and fix it. Either grind the valve in or...erm....new float and valve.

thanks for the help

guess i best get it off and have a butchers

just when i thought i'd finished with the engine...

[Big_Adam]

Just take the needle valve out. Fill it with a bit of toothpaste (yes, toothpaste) then put the whole lot in a drill. Spin the valve and hold the center part. This will grind the valve to the seat nice.

[Dan]

Clean it up very well afterwards.....

[Big_Adam]

Clean it up very well afterwards.....

That too. Cheer Dan.

[dklawson]

I'm not sure how I would specify this were I looking for parts over there, but.... It's not an efficient use of time to lap in a float valve. Float valves shouldn't be that expensive. The last set I bought had Viton tips which seal better than the metal-to-metal variety. I used these to replace Grose Jets I'd installed three years ago. The Grose Jets (which use metal-to-metal contact as well) were leaking a bit.

[Big_Adam]

It's not an efficient use of time to lap in a float valve. Float valves shouldn't be that expensive.

...it take 20mins Vs waiting a few days for the part in the mail.

[dklawson]

I guess it's how you value your time vs the cost of the new part. If I had to get my car running I'd lap the valve in as you suggest. However, for the $10 or so it costs for a Viton tipped valve (that provides a compliant sealing surface which never needs attention), I'd rather spend a little money than time. To each his own.

[Monstrous]

I guess it's how you value your time vs the cost of the new part. If I had to get my car running I'd lap the valve in as you suggest. However, for the $10 or so it costs for a Viton tipped valve (that provides a compliant sealing surface which never needs attention), I'd rather spend a little money than time. To each his own.

To be honest im in no rush to get it running seeming as there are no headlights, indicators, grille or anything required to make it road legal, actually on the car as it's being rubbed down for a respray.

Might aswell just go to my local mini spec on monday and get a new valve, if that is the case but for now i can just remove it and have a look.

STrange thing is it worked fine before i took it off the car, put it in a box and put that away so it wouldn't get damaged.

then when it comes to putting it back on, without even tampering with it apart from removing the dashpot to put the new needle in, it suddenly starts doing it, but oh well.

[Big_Adam]

However, for the $10 or so it costs for a Viton tipped valve

Ah, now for the $10 (about £5) I can run my car for a week. Compared with the £7-8 for a new valve and time.

Ah well each to their own. Back on topic (away from me being a cheap git). Monstrous, if it's just sort of started then it might just be some crud clogging the valve up. Got to take it apart anyway so you might as well have a look.

[cdaspink]

I guess it's how you value your time vs the cost of the new part. If I had to get my car running I'd lap the valve in as you suggest. However, for the $10 or so it costs for a Viton tipped valve (that provides a compliant sealing surface which never needs attention), I'd rather spend a little money than time. To each his own.

To be honest im in no rush to get it running seeming as there are no headlights, indicators, grille or anything required to make it road legal, actually on the car as it's being rubbed down for a respray.

Might aswell just go to my local mini spec on monday and get a new valve, if that is the case but for now i can just remove it and have a look.

STrange thing is it worked fine before i took it off the car, put it in a box and put that away so it wouldn't get damaged.

then when it comes to putting it back on, without even tampering with it apart from removing the dashpot to put the new needle in, it suddenly starts doing it, but oh well.

Same thing happened to a mate. The problem is caused (usually in HS carbs) where sedimant collects in the float chamber over a period of time and by removing it, it gets disturbed inevitably blocking the valve from fully closing. Make sure you give it a thorough flush and a new valve couldnt hurt either while you have it all apart!

[Monstrous]

Same thing happened to a mate. The problem is caused (usually in HS carbs) where sedimant collects in the float chamber over a period of time and by removing it, it gets disturbed inevitably blocking the valve from fully closing. Make sure you give it a thorough flush and a new valve couldnt hurt either while you have it all apart!

Thanks for your help guys

i'll have it out tomorrow and have a gander

[Monstrous]

Right finally got time to look at it today

it seems the float and needle valve ar all moving fine, so im guessing the valve is just worn and not sealing properly

but now i think about it, when i used to start the car up before there was always a strong smell of petrol on idle, so it may well have been worn before i dismantled the engine, but i just never noticed

anyway, im going to replace the valve and seat, and looking on minispares i saw this, would this be wise to purchase?

M