24 replies to this topic

[PhoenixSimon]

yeah I can get either side in but not both together, the mount that I get on I only put about 4 turns of the bolt just so it doesnt fall out and it still doesnt make any difference. Tried using the jack under the side thats in but it doesnt work. Think its coming out and the hammer and wood are going in!
If that fails jazzcool4 you might be on.
Simon

[midridge2]

simon, have come across this many times, i think you have said that the radiator side bolts are ok to go in and its the clutch side that is out.
stick a strong screwdriver etc into the subframe holes on the clutch side and bend the holes and use longer bolts this can then be tightend up and compact the rubber on the mount and then you can replace each bolt with a shorter one if you want. good luck

[Brumski]

Ah... bet they're not Rover mounts... the cpoies on the market are famous for being C**p with the mounting holes being in totally the wrong position.

Using screwdrivers/puches etc to try and libe the holes up is the only way... however, I had a set of mounts from a show once that would never have lined up, the holes were so badly out of line...

Brute force and ignorance is the only way with cheaper ones.... rover ones is a 10 minute job !!

[Guess-Works.com]

There was a post the other week about getting an engine in and difficulty with the mounts, and someone suggested their dad had a trick with a Jack, which pulled the engine down...

Now I've been having a think about this... so...

If you take a trolley Jack and a length of pollyprop rope, at the radiator side ( may be easier with rad removed ) take the length of polyprop over the rad mounting bracket in a loop, under the subframe, under the trolley jack and loop round the top suspension arm, this means there is now a strop which can be used to 'pull' the engine down....

Using the trolley jack, lift under the subframe, due to the fact the subframes going up, the engine MUST come down...

Worth a thought ??

[Guess-Works.com]

And agree with above statement about some 'non genuine' engine mounts... tollerances seem to have been taken to the extreem...

[ian]

now why didnt i think of that, all the times ive struggled to line those mounts up, jumping up and down on the engine lol.

its got to be worth a try, i cant see any reason why it cant work, only problem i see is remembering to try it next time.

[PhoenixSimon]

aha success!!!!
figured out the taking one of the bolts out from where the rad bracket mounts onto, that enabled the mount to pivot and it slipped in a treat. The bolts not back in yet as it needs some persuasion but I can at least get to teh end of it. Nightmare getting the nut on the back of the rad side bolt though but its done.
Tidying up all my tools I did see the nice new exhuast manifold gasget looking at me form the work bench but shouldnt be too much hassle getting that on with the engine in.
Cheers for all the helpful comments
Simon

[Guess-Works.com]

Just a quickie, but if using non-captive nut mounts the bolt should be put through from the inside out, rather than up and in...

This is a 'just in case' precaution if the nut does happen to come off, at least the bolt wont fall out and would stop the engine waggling about too much... I know unlikely that all 4 will go, but it's a mini, and anything's possible..

[PhoenixSimon]

yeah thats what I thought to be on the safe side so bolt heads are engine bay side. Need hands like a 5yr old to bend them that much!!!
cheers Simon

[_Ad_]

There was a post the other week about getting an engine in and difficulty with the mounts, and someone suggested their dad had a trick with a Jack, which pulled the engine down...

Now I've been having a think about this... so...

If you take a trolley Jack and a length of pollyprop rope, at the radiator side ( may be easier with rad removed ) take the length of polyprop over the rad mounting bracket in a loop, under the subframe, under the trolley jack and loop round the top suspension arm, this means there is now a strop which can be used to 'pull' the engine down....

Using the trolley jack, lift under the subframe, due to the fact the subframes going up, the engine MUST come down...

Worth a thought ??

Thats EXACTLY what he did mate, even he couldn't remember how he did it lol!

THIS WORKS TRUST ME!!!

Nice one, I've got to change my engine in a few weeks and this little trick he come up with comes in handy!

Cheers!

Edited by _Ad_, 16 May 2007 - 04:25 PM.