15 replies to this topic

[lemmingzappa]

I honestly couldnt be arsed to post this in the tech section because no-one seems to notice the thread

but none of the electrics seem to be working, no wipers, no indicators, no headunit.

But the car itself can start and move.
The fuses look fine.....something to do with the rain maybe ?

pshhh I dunno but its fustrating as I have the MOT coming up very soon.

[Phaeton]

The fuses look fine.....

Have you proved this or just looked at them?

Alan...

[Jammy]

I couldn't see any topic in the Technical section that shows you even attempted to get advice in there before trying Mini Chat. In fact, on the two occasions you did post in there (actually, you posted in Mini Chat and the topics were moved) the topics were then answered to a satisfactory level! So this is where this topic is being moved to!!

I'd double check the connections to the fuses. Can you list exactly what doesn't work? If its definitely not the fuses then have you got a multimeter?

[lemmingzappa]

Well I just tried changing 3 of the fuses and stuff started to work (which is very strange considering i've tried it before with the exact same fuses before). Can I confirm that they are all supposed to be 25A ?

Still cant get my headunit to work, and the hazard lights button works when it feels like it.

I havent managed to replace all 4 fuses, only 3 of them, but i've tried a new fuse in the slots I couldnt fill and the headunit still doesnt want to turn on ? not ALL of the fuses have to be working at the same time to complete the circuit to the HU do they ?

I dont have a multimeter, but I have one of those circuit tester screwdriver pointy thingys

[tomsbluemini]

Well I just tried changing 3 of the fuses and stuff started to work (which is very strange considering i've tried it before with the exact same fuses before). Can I confirm that they are all supposed to be 25A ?

Still cant get my headunit to work, and the hazard lights button works when it feels like it.

I havent managed to replace all 4 fuses, only 3 of them, but i've tried a new fuse in the slots I couldnt fill and the headunit still doesnt want to turn on ? not ALL of the fuses have to be working at the same time to complete the circuit to the HU do they ?

I dont have a multimeter, but I have one of those circuit tester screwdriver pointy thingys

dont forget that there are 2 more inline fuses...

in mine, they're behind the air filter, but it's a cone one...

look in the rough carb area, just between the carb and the bulkhead...

perhaps these 2 have blown?

Regards

Tom

[lemmingzappa]

true, I havent been able to replace those as i've run out of new ones, and I have no idea if trying the new ones that I've put in the fuse box in those inline fuse pods would work, because doesnt it all need to be fused to create the circuit ?

[tomsbluemini]

true, I havent been able to replace those as i've run out of new ones, and I have no idea if trying the new ones that I've put in the fuse box in those inline fuse pods would work, because doesnt it all need to be fused to create the circuit ?

...on top of that, if you've somehow got such a surge that you've blown nearly all the fuses, on some head units, there's a fuse on the back of the head unit itself.

have you tried there aswell???

Regards

Tom

[lemmingzappa]

I've looked at those fuses and they seem ok, but havent actually tried changing them, looks like I need a trip to halfrauds !

[Dan]

Fuse 1, 35 amp
Fuse 2 & 3, 25 amp
Fuse 4, 15 amp.

Some head units require both the permanant and switched power supplies to be working before they will function at all, so it could be that you need more than one fuse working at once. It's not that weird, fuses can look fine and still not function. If they have failed inside the end caps where you can't see it or just failed due to age or stress rather than over current you may not see the break at all.

[lemmingzappa]

oh C**p....so i've got the wrong fuses in !?

they are all 25A at the moment, that's what was in there anyway I think.

[Doc]

It could be your fuse box is knackered, do you know how old it is? I had a very similar problem where things were working intermittently. Changed the fuse box and everything was back to normal. When I checked the back of the fuse box you could see the corrosion on the points on the back.

This is caused by the insulating foam that the fuse box sits on and gets the contacts wet and they start to corrode as the wetness never goes away.

Here is a pic of the back of my old fuse box that I still have lying about. You can clearly see the second set of contacts (left to right) are a different colour and corroded.



You should check that, it's only held in by 2 screws so doesn't take long to rule it out.

[stef]

listen to Doc !

i had problems like this, turned out to be a buggered fuse box, but i just scraped off the C**p till it worked.

also, carry spare fuses with you, helps a lot! especially at night and / or in rain.

[lemmingzappa]

My fuse box is definately corroded on the rear, I couldnt tell you how old it is though.
Is there also a wiring diagram for the fusebox, so I know that my wires are connected to the right points ?

Thanks.

[Road Runner]

I had to replace my fuse box for similar problems, look at the simple things first befor panicing.

[Doc]

If you know it's corroded, replace it, even if that has no effect it will save you having no wipers, horn etc in the future. Better to prevent than get caught out. Eventually it will cause you problems if it's in that state.

As you take the connectors off the old one connect them to the same place on the new one, that's what I did. There should be enough slack. It can be a bit fiddley but nothing too strenuous.

Also make sure you remove and tear out the foam sound deadening behind the fuse box as this is causing most of your problems, so that when the fues box is re-screwed down it goes straight on to the bare bulk head. Stops water sitting for ages on your fuse box points.