Anyone know much torque is used for the sump plug at all because I cant find it in the haynes
Doing an oil change 2moz after around 7K miles on it lol
Cheers
Torque for sump plug
Started by
Mini Mad Rich
, May 30 2007 11:58 AM
6 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 30 May 2007 - 11:58 AM
#2
Posted 30 May 2007 - 12:36 PM
just nip it up, but don't do it too tight !
#3
Posted 30 May 2007 - 01:19 PM
just nip it up, but don't do it too tight !
Seconded!
#4
Posted 30 May 2007 - 01:20 PM
yep, just tight enough
#5
Posted 30 May 2007 - 07:48 PM
28 Lbft, which is surprisingly little. HOWEVER if it's been graunched by someone on the past that won't be tight enough to seal it, and it it's a taper plug don't go anywhere near that tight. Also if the washer, plug and casing aren't clean it won't be tight enough at that torque. So as the others say above, just do it tight enough to seal it and no more. And use a new copper washer, makes a big difference.
Edited by Dan, 30 May 2007 - 07:48 PM.
#6
Posted 31 May 2007 - 02:44 AM
This is a timely topic.
I spent Sunday afternoon installing a HeliCoil in the sump of a friend's car to address a stripped out drain plug. I'm an advocate of doing away with the copper washer. Most parts suppliers over here have various other sealing washers that are suitable. You can force various styles of 14mm nylon washers on the Mini drain plug... or you can buy my preferred washer, metal with bonded rubber. The metal/rubber seal is like a flat washer with a rubber o-ring bonded to it's inside diameter. The rubber squishes to seal between the head of the drain plug and the spotface on the gearbox casing. When you get it "snug enough" the rubber is squished to the point that you can feel the metal washer come into contact. That's all you need. No excessive amount of torque, a good elastomeric seal that can't squirt out, and the rubber keeps things from vibrating loose. The real plus is that so much less torque is required you stand little chance of stripping out the drain plug hole.
I spent Sunday afternoon installing a HeliCoil in the sump of a friend's car to address a stripped out drain plug. I'm an advocate of doing away with the copper washer. Most parts suppliers over here have various other sealing washers that are suitable. You can force various styles of 14mm nylon washers on the Mini drain plug... or you can buy my preferred washer, metal with bonded rubber. The metal/rubber seal is like a flat washer with a rubber o-ring bonded to it's inside diameter. The rubber squishes to seal between the head of the drain plug and the spotface on the gearbox casing. When you get it "snug enough" the rubber is squished to the point that you can feel the metal washer come into contact. That's all you need. No excessive amount of torque, a good elastomeric seal that can't squirt out, and the rubber keeps things from vibrating loose. The real plus is that so much less torque is required you stand little chance of stripping out the drain plug hole.
#7
Posted 31 May 2007 - 07:03 AM
I hate it when you have to get the breaker bar out to remove a sump plug....
just nip it up, but that which DK describes sounds like a worthy alternative...
Failing that your looking at 25+ for someone to helicoil the plug..
just nip it up, but that which DK describes sounds like a worthy alternative...
Failing that your looking at 25+ for someone to helicoil the plug..
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