10 replies to this topic

[AlexM]

I am having a spot of bother stripping the diff. I've removed the locktabs and seperated the large gear from the rest of the housing but am unsure how to remove the centre pin.
There is a roll pin which I can access but I'm unsure which way to knock it out. The 5mm punch I have will go in one side but not the other. The haynes says something about "removing the tapered roll pin" but I don't want to knock it out and get it jammed or something. Which way does it come out?
One more thing, is this amount of wear on the gears usual, or do I need to replace these too? I'm trying to keep costs low but don't want problems like I had before.
A quick reply would be appreciated as I need to order the parts I need today ready for the weekend.

Thanks

Edited by AlexM, 31 May 2007 - 09:50 AM.

[Big_Adam]

From me mini builder DVD it's bashed out from the cast side of the diff. So from cast to the machined surface of the diff.

No idea on teeth wear as I've only been up for 3min, don't forget to get some new fiber washers.

[AlexM]

Can anyone else help? My 5mm pin punch won't fit through on the cast side, but will on the machined side...

Edited by AlexM, 31 May 2007 - 11:38 AM.

[icklemini]

the hole in the diff cage (on the cast side) may need 'dressing'/clearing out so a punch can get in there..

[Guess-Works.com]

You won't knock the pin out from the crownwheel side as the hole is smaller, hence you will also need a smaller punch...

The wear on the plant gears... it's more important to look at the inner surface where it sits on the diff pin once you've split the diff. If it's scored then bin them... replace the diff pin as a matter of course, preferably with an uprated competition item. Also check the condition of the bronze thrusts, if they have a worn ridge, again replace.. The mica washers will probably need replacing too, but beware that some new ones are too thick and will make the diff very tight.

[AlexM]

You won't knock the pin out from the crownwheel side as the hole is smaller, hence you will also need a smaller punch...

The wear on the plant gears... it's more important to look at the inner surface where it sits on the diff pin once you've split the diff. If it's scored then bin them... replace the diff pin as a matter of course, preferably with an uprated competition item. Also check the condition of the bronze thrusts, if they have a worn ridge, again replace.. The mica washers will probably need replacing too, but beware that some new ones are too thick and will make the diff very tight.

Bought a smaller punch and managed to get it out. Minispares just informed me that the planet gears are difficult to get hold of at the moment. Ordered a rebuild kit plus a few other things I needed. I've got the roll pin out but there doesn't seem to be an obvious next step....

[icklemini]

I've got the roll pin out but there doesn't seem to be an obvious next step....

its in the haynes - but once the roll pin is out - the diff pin slides free...

[AlexM]

I've got the roll pin out but there doesn't seem to be an obvious next step....

its in the haynes - but once the roll pin is out - the diff pin slides free...

So it does! muppet

[Simon@minispares.com]

Are you replacing that diff output shaft?

[AlexM]

Are you replacing that diff output shaft?

I havent ordered them, I think I remember them being on the pricey side.

[AlexM]

The insides of the planet gears don't look scored, although they sit about as loose on the new pin as they did on the old one...