20 replies to this topic

[Burt]

i have a red 93 sprite and where the logo has been taken off the rear quarters, it is possible to see the the logo. i have used alot of different polishes already but none seem to make a difference. its still visable

what should i do?

[nursey]

Pic please.

But is the faded bit a part of the sticker or from where it has been removed?

Try AG Tar remover first.

Follow with AG SRP.

Halfords are doing a 3-2 so also buy either a wash mitt or AG Glass Cleaner.

[panelbeaterpeter]

i have a red 93 sprite and where the logo has been taken off the rear quarters, it is possible to see the the logo. i have used alot of different polishes already but none seem to make a difference. its still visable

what should i do?

The paint around the decal will have faded over time, (red is particularly bad for that). Just polish it up with a bit of cutting compound, T cut or G3, just to remove the top faded layer of paint.

[nursey]

Sorry, but i find G3 VERY harsh (she says just learning how to polish with a PC lol)

I would go with AG SRP for the whole panel first.

Less swirls.

[ian]

peter, just as a matter of interest but why is red particurly bad for it? i know ive seen plenty of red cars turn pink, mainly the flat panels, ie roof/bonnet.
is it something to do with the pigment in the paint?

ian

[Mayfairmad]

red are worse for fading because of there pigment content. correct me if im wrong please (then i can go show my tutor up at college lol)

[Burt]

sorry i cant get a pic at the moment.
the paint has faded on the whole panel, apart from where the sticker was (still orginal shade)
i have already used AG paint renovator also AG super resin polish, last resort i used a red T-cut. i just dont want to sand the panel or respray it if possible

can anyone tell me whats special about G3 never heard of it apart from this forum. please

[Mayfairmad]

G3 is a finishing compound where u sand back the top of the coat (as red dont have laquor) with 1200g sandpaper and lots of water. then using a polishing machine u use the G3 to bring out the coat below and your paint is then restored to the origanal colour. may take a while but worth it.

I use 1200 to sand out dust marks and runs in paint after i have sprayed. then use the G3 paste and a polisher t obring back the paint or laquor to a good flat deep shine.

Its quality stuff and i highly recommend it

[Legend]

1200 is abit ruff to flat back after spraying id use more 2000, you dont need to use a buffer with G3 just use it like t-cut but dont rub in one spot for a while as you can rub through the paint, as pete says just buff up the whole panel, or the whole car if you want, will make a big differnce

[Burt]

thanks. wheres the best places to get it?

[panelbeaterpeter]

Okay, this is G3. http://www.autojoy.c...ct.php?xProd=59

It is used by myself and every other bodyshop proffesional I know. It is only too harsh if you don't know what you're doing.
You DO need to use a buffer to get a decent factory finish. Use one of these http://www.tooled-up...e-Polisher-240v If you use G3 without a buff, ie with a cloth by hand you will probably scratch the panel. It needs a uniform movement applied with even pressure. It is also pointless trying to use G3 using a two handled polisher that you can get from B&Q for £10, I've seen people doing this, it is pointless, it'll take far too long and won't do a very good job. You don't have to flat the paint back first with wet n dry paper beforehand, unless there are nibs (bits of sh*t in the paint) or excessive orange peel. If you DO need to use sandpaper, use wet and dry with water as said by mayfairmad, using grade 1500 to 2000. I personally start off with 1500 by hand just flatting any imperfections, and then go over the top using 2000 with a polisher DA (dual action) sander. If you decide to use 1500, you have to go over it after with 2000 unless you want to make alot of work for yourself.

Solid (non metallic) red is particuarly bad for fading due to pigments in the paint being faded by UV rays from sunlight. Yellow and Black are also particuarly prone to fading. This is because if it's a solid colour it is usually applied using a direct gloss, ie one component finish as opposed to metallics which are lacquer over base. You can paint solids using this lacquer over base method, but car manufacturers tend not to as it's cheaper. If you are getting a re-spray in a solid colour, ask for it to be lacquered, this prevents pigment being lost in the paint, as it is protected by the lacquer.

As for dealing with the faded paint around your removed decal, if you cannot get hold of a buffer and G3, I would try Tcut, or if that doesn't work, bring it to a bodyshop and they will buff it up for you for around £0-£30.


Pete

[Burt]

thanks everybody. ill give it a go when i have some time off. and will post before and after pics

Thanks Burt

[smudger]

Sorry, but i find G3 way way way to harsh.

Each to their own, but i prefer Megs 83, Megs 80 then finish off with victoria wax.

But thats expensive, lol

For you, just elbow grease.

Pity your not local.

[panelbeaterpeter]

I don't get this. G3 isn't harsh at all if used properly. I've been using it for finishing cars for 3 years now and I have only burnt through once, on my own car. Just keep away from the edges, and keep the mop moist. If I lived nearer, I'd come and give you a demo!!

[smudger]

Having watched MANY painters use G3 and seen the amount of paint that it removes, I just dont like G3.

Its fine if you know your paint depth and you need something harsh to cut the paint pack, but the thread is about faded paint.

I have had wonderful results with Scratch X and AG SRP with elbow grease.

As I said, each to their own, I just prefer to remove the fade and swirls with a nice gentle cutter rather than a sledge hammer effect!