15 replies to this topic

[Minuel]

Hi, as I'm sure this has been asked several times before please feel free to direct me to any relevant threads.

I have ordered a new engine and need to address a few areas of corrosion in the engine bay.

My first question is, what is the best way to get the engine out - from above or below?

Secondly, I am going from a 950 cc engine up to a 1380. I have ordered new carbs, distributor, ignition, Cooper S brake conversion kit and exhaust system. Are there any other ancilliaries I need to upgrade which I haven't considered?

I have also been told that I may have to change the subframe, however, I don't think this is the case. Any ideas?

Many thanks - I'm now starting to get very nervous!!!

MK

[Big_Adam]

Well if your sorting run why not just the sub frame and engine in one shot.

Think it's 10 or so bolts. Fuel pipes disconnected, brake pipes disconnected, couple wires and the carb off them drop it down. You'll be able to weld everything lots of space spare until you plonk the new engine in.

Thats my plan. You'll need a mate or two to lift the body off the engine.

[Minuel]

So I hold the car with some axle stands, lift up the front and literally wheel the subframe out with the engine. Can I take the engine off the subframe and temporarily refit the subframe if I need to move the car around while I'm working on the engine bay?

MK

[Big_Adam]

Yeah, if your going to do that though might as well lift the engine out. Need to remove the carbs, exhaust and dizzy as well as the rad and it's gubbin's. Then you can lift it out one you undo all the engine mounts. Renew them while your there.

It's in the haynes.

[Edmonds87]

So I hold the car with some axle stands, lift up the front and literally wheel the subframe out with the engine. Can I take the engine off the subframe and temporarily refit the subframe if I need to move the car around while I'm working on the engine bay?

MK

I used this method when i took my engine out. Except i jacked up the car as high as possible and placed a piece of 4" x 2" across widthways on the underside of the front of the car (near the factory jacking points):

 1053268249a3687545694b402586465l.jpg   51.45K   12 downloads

Having removed the wheels, hubs, calipers etc, I supported the subframe with a trolley jack and another piece of wood width ways across the front subby, took all the bolts/mountings holding the subframe to the body, then carefully dropped the subframe on the jack to the floor and slid it out underneith the body.

Only did it this way as i had no engine crane and was easier than hiring one out. Once all was good in the engine bay and the subframe had a coat of hammerite i refitted just the subframe and hubs etc to the car so i could tow it to my new house then fitted the engine when it was ready with a crane:

 1053268249a3805476640b562837922l.jpg   50.82K   15 downloads


Ive tried to add a pics of mine whilst it was being done so u can see where i supported it.

Hope this helps

Chris

Edited by Edmonds87, 11 June 2007 - 09:10 PM.

[minidaves]

is this to the 72 mini if soo what chear change does it have?

you will need a spacer for the fan and a cooper s rad bracket for starters too

which drive shafts does your new engine have too

dave

[alexcrosse]

Secondly, I am going from a 950 cc engine up to a 1380. I have ordered new carbs, distributor, ignition, Cooper S brake conversion kit and exhaust system. Are there any other ancilliaries I need to upgrade which I haven't considered?

that youve got too much money =p lol. wish i could 'buy a new engine' good luck. Engine from under every time, lift the car.

[Minuel]

LOL, I've been saving up for this mid-life crisis for years!

[Minuel]

Hi Dave, I have no idea about the drive shafts as this is something I havent considered. I suppose I will only find out when I get the engine out?

MK

[minidaves]

Hi Dave, I have no idea about the drive shafts as this is something I havent considered. I suppose I will only find out when I get the engine out?

MK

does it have a wand box atm?

dave

[Minuel]

I believe that it has a link box (doesn't require the stick to be pulled up when engaging reverse).

Mark

[alexcrosse]

what? lol. Wand or remote?

[Minuel]

Sorry, I believe it to be remote.

Mark

[cooper1400]

always one for debate, I prefer to remove all the bits and pieces, then jack the whole car up in the air,place some blocks under the sump, remove the engine mounts, then lower the car right down. 2 of you can the pick the engine and gearbox all in one and remove it, as it is a nice height to get hold of. then jack the car back up and reconnect the hubs ect then you have a rolling shell. best using 2 trolley jacks, but i have used this method for 20 plus years. i did try the drop the subframe method once, but I find bleeding the brakes afterwards is always a pain.

[Chrome_GT]

I've recently done the engine out the top trick. It was a pain in the arse trying to manouvre the engine so that it didn't bend the slam panel - and it ended up doing it anyway. Next time i'm going for the subframe removal approach