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Removing Flywheel


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#16 koss

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Posted 14 June 2007 - 12:17 PM

I shocked myself so much when i stuck the puller on and did it up exceptionally tight, then stuck a small blow torch on it!!! :(

BANG!!! I almost fell over backwards :wacko:

lol

A little off topic but I was removing a flywheel from a Honda big red quad bike. Using the proper tool it would not budge.
So I sat looking at it for while, Then I woke up with broken teeth and blood every where. Got the fly wheel off tho.

#17 Cisco

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Posted 14 June 2007 - 06:40 PM

Posted Image

I've broken a pair of molegrips so far!

On Saturday I'll get a nice big socket and a great big old bar for plenty of leverage, hopefully get the old beast off!

#18 Dan

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Posted 14 June 2007 - 07:30 PM

You were using molegrips? Surely you didn't use them to get the flywheel bolt out? You'll never get the puller tight enough with molegrips!

Also, to avoid an incident similar to the one Koss can't remember, put something under it to catch it when it releases. An old thick blanket or something. It's heavy, it will fall and land on things, hard.

#19 icklemini

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Posted 14 June 2007 - 08:27 PM

two things...

as dan has said - you need a big breaker bar and socket to give enough grunt.
and (more seriously) - the puller bolt looks like its going straight into the end of the crank - buggering up the crank thread.. :s - there needs to be a thrust block on the end of the main puller bolt to stop the bolt shagging up the crank...

and although hitting the centre of the puller bolt (when correctly installed) is ok to try and shock it off, dont hit the flywheel through the starter motor hole or such like..

hth,
Dave

#20 Boab

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Posted 14 June 2007 - 09:32 PM

and (more seriously) - the puller bolt looks like its going straight into the end of the crank - buggering up the crank thread.. :s - there needs to be a thrust block on the end of the main puller bolt to stop the bolt shagging up the crank...

and although hitting the centre of the puller bolt (when correctly installed) is ok to try and shock it off, dont hit the flywheel through the starter motor hole or such like..

hth,
Dave


Noticed that as well.

#21 Cisco

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Posted 14 June 2007 - 11:47 PM

Thanks for that:)

Will try it this weekend with a big breaker bar and with the bolthead in place.

#22 annodomini2

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Posted 15 June 2007 - 08:06 AM

Currently having fun removing mine on 998 A+ (verto), where would you guys apply the heat as I have a blow torch?

#23 ian

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Posted 15 June 2007 - 08:23 AM

not sure if this will work for you but it got mine off, put a jug of water in the freezer for a few mins and boil the kettle, with the puller done up nice and tight pour a jug of boiling water over it then throw the jug of freezing water over it straight after. i had to do this twice before mine decided to budge.

#24 Road Runner

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Posted 15 June 2007 - 08:49 AM

Must say I find the hot water and cold water trick a bit hard to beleve, you would have to pore it on slowly to have any effect. I usally hot the big bolt on the puller with a hammer to shock it off.

#25 Dan

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Posted 15 June 2007 - 09:16 AM

I hadn't noticed the thrust block being missing, but if you've wound that bolt in with any real strength then you've probably already cheesed your crankshaft. The tap needed to re-thread the crank is a funny design and will normally cost more to buy than a replacement crank does.

#26 Cisco

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Posted 16 June 2007 - 06:03 PM

Yea, I found out the hard way about needing the centre bolt in before pulling it. Luckily the bolt has barely gone into the shaft and the thread is still perfect. Now just awaiting my great big socket! I'm new all this mini engine business and this is my first re-build.

Again, thanks for the tips :teehee:

Edited by Cisco, 16 June 2007 - 06:04 PM.


#27 Big_Adam

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Posted 16 June 2007 - 06:25 PM

On a completely different topic.

Cisco, as in cisco the networking people?

#28 Cisco

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Posted 16 June 2007 - 07:25 PM

Nah just a random name :teehee:

#29 TOMMO0302

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Posted 17 June 2007 - 11:19 AM

I can't really add too much to the suggestions, but if you hadn't tightened it enough to damage the thread, you had no chance, they take some serious torgue to get off. What i can add, is that it seems you have some different shaped nuts on the puller, you have to make sure they are exactly the same size else you will be trying to pull the fly off un-squarely to the crank,making it both harder and more likely to damage it.

#30 Ethel

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Posted 17 June 2007 - 11:54 AM

Shouldn't need those nuts as spacers once he's sorted the crank bolt hole thing. Sure my puller came with a bush thingy for the the crank end mind you it's been ages since I used it so I may be imagining things again :w00t:. Suppose if you put the bolt in with out the lock tab that'll do the trick.




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