12 replies to this topic

[Dolts]

If i were to take a standard 1275 and have the following work done on it...

• Offset bored to 73.5mm
• 11 stud conversion
• surfaced up to 0.30"
• New cam bearings
• Steel centre main strap

what other standard componants will need replacing/modifying? considering it will have a modded head, sw5 cam, twin su's and a cross pin diff. I will prbably use ARP Head studs and rod bolts too.

Cheers
Gareth

[The Matt]

When they bore it, they'll probably cross-hatch hone it too.

Umm, new oil pump, decent steel backed job,
Water pump upgrade,
decent shells, (size dependant on crank regrind)

[Dolts]

When they bore it, they'll probably cross-hatch hone it too.

Umm, new oil pump, decent steel backed job,
Water pump upgrade,
decent shells, (size dependant on crank regrind)

So i would need to get the crank reground too?

[Puddings]

If i were to take a standard 1275 and have the following work done on it...

• Offset bored to 73.5mm
• 11 stud conversion
• surfaced up to 0.30"
• New cam bearings
• Steel centre main strap

what other standard componants will need replacing/modifying? considering it will have a modded head, sw5 cam, twin su's and a cross pin diff. I will prbably use ARP Head studs and rod bolts too.

Cheers
Gareth

mine has only 9 stud head with ARP's and thats 120bhp so i dont see why you would need 11

i would put the list up of what i have changed but it would take agers and it would depress me looking at all the bills

[The Matt]

If i were to take a standard 1275 and have the following work done on it...

• Offset bored to 73.5mm
• 11 stud conversion
• surfaced up to 0.30"
• New cam bearings
• Steel centre main strap

what other standard componants will need replacing/modifying? considering it will have a modded head, sw5 cam, twin su's and a cross pin diff. I will prbably use ARP Head studs and rod bolts too.

Cheers
Gareth

mine has only 9 stud head with ARP's and thats 120bhp so i dont see why you would need 11

i would put the list up of what i have changed but it would take agers and it would depress me looking at all the bills

snap!

[The Matt]

RE: the crank. Whilst the engine is apart, I'd at least send the crank to your engine builder and get them to check it out. They might say it doesn't need a regrind. But to be honest it makes good sense to do it whilst it's out. It'll cost you IRO £100 all in, with decent beaing shells for the big ends and mains.

[biggav]

lightened flywheel and good timing gear.... i only have 9 studs on my 1380...

[*Raz*]

''1380 questions''

Thats a LOT of questions!!

Raz xXx

[Car Nation]

lol Raz.
i think you would have to change the cams too

[The Matt]

lol Raz.
i think you would have to change the cam too

He's said he's gonna opt for an SW5 up in ze top post!

[*Raz*]

you've lost me there!!

teehee

Raz xXx

[Road Runner]

Just do what I did, get a kit you should have all the parts you need.

[alexcrosse]

competition fuel pump, go for a metro turbo oil pump, not just a new one. Yes you need the crank reground and bearing to fit. Check all bearing r inline with chalkin, mite want straight cut drops if its gonna be powerful (i.e. modded head) and too much to list. Just work out how much you can do it for, and double it =p