
What would cause the accelerator to kill the engine?
Started by
OllyD
, Jun 15 2007 12:23 PM
24 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 25 June 2007 - 01:33 PM
i'd be using carb cleaner all over the thing, checking your getting a good supply of fuel and then setting it all up properly.
#17
Posted 26 June 2007 - 09:24 PM
Happened to me. Make sure that when you lift the piston the needle lifts. Mine got loose and lifting the piston left the needle down leading to a VERY LEAN mixture. I had the same symptoms
Edited by Teos, 26 June 2007 - 09:28 PM.
#18
Posted 27 June 2007 - 05:32 AM
What would cause the accelerator to kill the engine?
Coming home to find it in bed with another engine?
Sorry I couldn't resist
I had a similer problem with mine when i got it, turned out that the advance/retard unit on the distributor had died. But ths was with a HS4, and if you've only touched the carb I'd guess that it was there too.
Good luck
#19
Posted 13 July 2007 - 07:08 PM
HI guys, finally got around to trying to fix my car today.
Fitted my new coil, new leads and replacement HIF - I figured just throwing down money for a new carb was better than the frustration i was putting up with, but no such luck!
Even with the new carb, I'm experiencing the same problems as before.
I lined up the jet so it was in line with the jet bearing- though it sits a touch lower than the bridge. To do this, the mixture was full out as far as it could be. Then wound it two 360's. The idle adjuster screw was set as indicated above.
Now I can't even get the car running, it just turns over (i've had to hook it up to another car to keep it juiced as I drain the battery.) The one time I did manage to get it turning over was by cranking the idle up to 2000 revs! Dropped the idle down a little bit and it didn't cut out, so I dared a pump on the accelerator. The engine died. At this point, the mixture screw was all the way out.
Please help guys!
Fitted my new coil, new leads and replacement HIF - I figured just throwing down money for a new carb was better than the frustration i was putting up with, but no such luck!
Even with the new carb, I'm experiencing the same problems as before.
I lined up the jet so it was in line with the jet bearing- though it sits a touch lower than the bridge. To do this, the mixture was full out as far as it could be. Then wound it two 360's. The idle adjuster screw was set as indicated above.
Now I can't even get the car running, it just turns over (i've had to hook it up to another car to keep it juiced as I drain the battery.) The one time I did manage to get it turning over was by cranking the idle up to 2000 revs! Dropped the idle down a little bit and it didn't cut out, so I dared a pump on the accelerator. The engine died. At this point, the mixture screw was all the way out.
Please help guys!
#20
Posted 13 July 2007 - 07:09 PM
New carb, might not be set up. Richen the mix a few tweaks.
#21
Posted 13 July 2007 - 07:20 PM
New carb, might not be set up. Richen the mix a few tweaks.
But that's what I'm saying. I'm trying to set it up, but fine-tuning and adjustment doesn't seem to be getting me anywhere.
#22
Posted 14 July 2007 - 07:58 AM
bump
#23
Posted 14 July 2007 - 09:50 AM
Had you thought of checking the dashpot oil...
#24
Posted 14 July 2007 - 10:07 AM
Dashpot oil has been filled with 3 in 1. Rises with resistance, and falls freely, as it should.
#25
Posted 14 July 2007 - 10:41 AM
Get yerself a hand squeezy spray bottle and put a drop of petrol in to give your carb a spray down the throat with it, with the obvious caution, and try to start the car. Do the same to try and accelerate the engine - if it behaves better it'd suggest it is your fuel system.
A shot vac advance could also be to blame so adapt a way of putting a vacuum to it (syringe perhaps) and see if moves the dizzy base plate. You can make a rough check of the centrifugal advance by trying to turn the rotor arm it should move with some resistance from the return springs.
Ooooer again - I type dizzy and Vic Reeves starts singing it on the radio, that's twice that's happened while I've been posting on TMF, defo way too spooky.
Afraid it could be lots of things either fuel or poor performing ignition badly timed (vac advance or centrifugal weights 'n springs) or weak spark (reluctor gap, poor connections or dying electronics)
Cranking the engine and watching the spark plug gaps is a pretty crude test, but may show up a spark week enough to cause running that bad.
I'd even check your fuel pump is producing some pressure. and blow through every hose to be sure there are no blockages
nothing else changed recently, spark plugs etc?
The easiest way to track down an elusive fault like this would be to swap out components with a friendly donor Mini to isolate the fault.
A shot vac advance could also be to blame so adapt a way of putting a vacuum to it (syringe perhaps) and see if moves the dizzy base plate. You can make a rough check of the centrifugal advance by trying to turn the rotor arm it should move with some resistance from the return springs.
Ooooer again - I type dizzy and Vic Reeves starts singing it on the radio, that's twice that's happened while I've been posting on TMF, defo way too spooky.
Afraid it could be lots of things either fuel or poor performing ignition badly timed (vac advance or centrifugal weights 'n springs) or weak spark (reluctor gap, poor connections or dying electronics)
Cranking the engine and watching the spark plug gaps is a pretty crude test, but may show up a spark week enough to cause running that bad.
I'd even check your fuel pump is producing some pressure. and blow through every hose to be sure there are no blockages
nothing else changed recently, spark plugs etc?
The easiest way to track down an elusive fault like this would be to swap out components with a friendly donor Mini to isolate the fault.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users