Hi,
When replacing a clutch friction plate, is it an absolute neccessity that the pressure plate be changed at the same time?? The reason I ask is I have a brand new friction plate for the Mini, and the pressure plate thats currently fitted is absolutely fine...
The release bearing is only about 2500 miles old, so I don't see the point in buying a whole clutch kit if I don't have to?
Can someone advise me?
Ta!
Tom
General clutch question
Started by
Purple Tom
, Jun 26 2007 06:32 PM
7 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 26 June 2007 - 06:32 PM
#2
Posted 26 June 2007 - 08:58 PM
id think that was fine,
no real reason why not!
no real reason why not!
#3
Posted 27 June 2007 - 12:03 AM
I would think it's OK. However, I have been bitten by this before on a non-Mini. I had a Toyota where I only replaced the friction disk. It all went together fine but the re-assembled clutch components felt VERY light, almost loose. I used it for a little while but finally couldn't stand it and bought a new pressure plate.
#4
Posted 27 June 2007 - 07:48 AM
Ok, thanks! I've got a while to chew it over before it goes back together so I'll have a think
Ta!
Tom
Ta!
Tom
#5
Posted 27 June 2007 - 08:24 AM
Which sort of clutch ?? if it's a diaphram, make sure the driving straps are just touching the pressure plate, if not adjust by adding or taking away washers from the strap to flywheel connection.
If verto, there's no adjustment anyway....
If verto, there's no adjustment anyway....
#6
Posted 27 June 2007 - 10:47 AM
Another thing with the preverto clutch is to make sure is correct is, with the assembled clutch/flywheel, the diaphragm spring is completely flat. If its not completely flat, not all of the stored energy in the spring is being used resulting in reduced clamping force. This excess stored energy also has to be overcome to push the spring overcenter when you press the clutch pedal, in esence making the pedal feel harder. This puts strain on the thrust bearings and the release bearings. Its probibly not as noticable on a standard diaghragm but when you get to the likes of the orange and especialy the grey and double grey, you are asking for trouble if its not sorted.
So if the spring is not flat the clamping force of the clutch is reduced and the pedal feels harder.
One thing i have learnt over the years is that the slightest wear on any and every part of the clutch mechanism will give you a problem. So if you can see or know of wear on any part of the clutch, replace it, its not helping. And i mean EVERY part, the actuating arm, the clevis pins, the plunger, the friction plate the flywheel and the backplate. I have seen people extend the push rod on the slave cylinder as well as bending the actuating arm, all of which are over looking that real problem and to be honest a bodge.
So if the spring is not flat the clamping force of the clutch is reduced and the pedal feels harder.
One thing i have learnt over the years is that the slightest wear on any and every part of the clutch mechanism will give you a problem. So if you can see or know of wear on any part of the clutch, replace it, its not helping. And i mean EVERY part, the actuating arm, the clevis pins, the plunger, the friction plate the flywheel and the backplate. I have seen people extend the push rod on the slave cylinder as well as bending the actuating arm, all of which are over looking that real problem and to be honest a bodge.
#7
Posted 27 June 2007 - 11:36 AM
Could not agree more about that... wear in the mechanical pivots, especially the pins is a killer...
#8
Posted 27 June 2007 - 11:42 AM
Yeah, when I had an A-Series I renewed absolutely everything on the clutch, it worked perfectly, although thank you for the advice! I think it'd be worth pinning that section you just wrote MS. I was asking about the Vauxhall lump, as I've got the engine out to fit a new gearbox. Just took the clutch off and the friction material was almost down to the rivets. The pressure plate is the same age so I think I'll be fitting a new one!
Ta
Tom
Ta
Tom
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