16 replies to this topic

[Bam]

Any tips on removing the clutch master cylinder? I cant get that stupid pin out from the pedal!

[minimanclive]

If you're working upside down in the footwell. Try undoing the master cylinder from the bulkhead, lifting it up and getting to the pin from that side. You might need an assistant to push the pedal down to help with access to the pin from the engine bay.

[Bass Man]

Drivers seat out, put some cushions on the runners

Flat on your back, reach in with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out.

There is a reasonable amount of contortion involved, I have to do mine again because it is leaking......

I replaced the split pin with a R clip, it seems to have worked fine.

[Bass Man]

If you're working upside down in the footwell. Try undoing the master cylinder from the bulkhead, lifting it up and getting to the pin from that side. You might need an assistant to push the pedal down to help with access to the pin from the engine bay.

Does that work? Does it come up far enough?

If it does I might try this next time.

[Ethel]

It can't come up far enough to poke through the hole but some may find it easier to work through the hole.

I've got little mitts and find reaching round the side of the pedal box is a little less cramped, wiggling the pedal lines the holes up so pushing the clevis out is easier. Definitely use an R clip to replace the split pin.

[Bam]

Ok thanks guys!

Ill try both ways.

[pogie]

I changed the clutch master cylinder on my Mini last weekend.

I found that pulling the cylinder up through the bulkhead didn't get me anywhere near the split pin so I attacked it from under the dash and I also took the steering column out to give me more room. I used a pair of snips to cut off the split pin right next to the pivot pin and then used a pair of extra long needle nose pliers to pull the remainder of the split pin out. The long needle noses also came in handy for refitting the pivot and split pins. Changing anything on the pedles has got to be the trickiest jobs you can do on a Mini.

Edited by pogie, 12 July 2007 - 01:01 PM.

[dklawson]

Regardless of what method you use to get this out, follow BassMan's advice and replace the cotter with an R-clip (hitch pin) when you reinstall the parts.

While it's out, make sure the clevis pin isn't badly worn and likewise that the clevis on the master cylinder is a good fit to the pin. Wear here will give you excessive pedal travel before the master cylinder starts actually working.

[Bam]

Regardless of what method you use to get this out, follow BassMan's advice and replace the cotter with an R-clip (hitch pin) when you reinstall the parts.

While it's out, make sure the clevis pin isn't badly worn and likewise that the clevis on the master cylinder is a good fit to the pin. Wear here will give you excessive pedal travel before the master cylinder starts actually working.

Ok ta. Im replacing it because I blew the old one appart! clutch fluid was comming out the cap and going everywere.

[pogie]

While it's out, make sure the clevis pin isn't badly worn and likewise that the clevis on the master cylinder is a good fit to the pin. Wear here will give you excessive pedal travel before the master cylinder starts actually working.

Absolutely, mine had loads of wear, and as getting the master cylinder is such a pig of a job, you might as well change the clevis/pivot pin while you are there. I also put a new pedal in as the there was about 2-3mm play in the pedal hole with the new clevis pin and if you translate that to the end of pedal and you get a lot of free movement.
The pivot holes in the old master cylinder also had a lot of wear, as did the slave cylinder push rod. The worst parts were the pivot arm knuckle and where it fits into the clutch plunger, both of these were worn to excess and needed replacing. I fitted a new clutch well, the only parts of the clutch system that I didn't replace was the cooper pipe between the master cylinder and the flexi hose and the pedal rubber.

[Jupitus]

Quick note: Never try to replace the clevis pin with a nut and bolt...

[Guess-Works.com]

I concur about the R clip thing... saves shoot loads of time in the future

[dklawson]

Quick note: Never try to replace the clevis pin with a nut and bolt...

Out of morbid curiosity... what terrible thing happened to you or your car?

I have taken bolts, cut off the threads and cross-drilled them to be clevis pins. That has always worked well for me when I needed a pin the right length. I'd never thought about using them with a nut.

As we speak, my Mini's seats are held in with 1/4-20 hex head bolts with the threads cut off and R-clips inserted through cross-drilled holes. That makes getting the seats in and out a breeze.

[Jupitus]

Quick note: Never try to replace the clevis pin with a nut and bolt...

Out of morbid curiosity... what terrible thing happened to you or your car?

I have taken bolts, cut off the threads and cross-drilled them to be clevis pins. That has always worked well for me when I needed a pin the right length. I'd never thought about using them with a nut.

As we speak, my Mini's seats are held in with 1/4-20 hex head bolts with the threads cut off and R-clips inserted through cross-drilled holes. That makes getting the seats in and out a breeze.

Ummm... well..... I read it somewhere!!!

Seriously though, I think there was mention of using a nut and bolt combo on the brake or clutch and it getting snagged up or something.....

Also, you would do it properly with pin through etc etc etc... I meant just a simple nut n bolt

Edited by Jupitus, 13 July 2007 - 08:20 AM.

[Guess-Works.com]

I think the clue there was DK removed the threads....

If you just stick a bolt through, then overtime the threads will compres and leave you with a worse fit than a worn clevis...

Same could be said for using full threaded bolts where shanked bolts should be used, for example in engine steadies and brackets...