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Problem selecting reverse gear...


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#1 yorkshirechris

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Posted 12 July 2007 - 12:18 PM

I've noticed this weekend that sometimes it's hard to select reverse gear in my mini...

it moves into place but upon lifting the clutch doesn't move at all... can't really hear any noise as if it's grinding either

Also, since I've had the car, it occasionally shudders when either changing up or down to 1st and 2nd gear.. usually at high revs

:P

Are these problems likely to be connected and from the vague description could anyone guess at what the problem actually is?

Cheers

#2 minislapper

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Posted 12 July 2007 - 05:32 PM

Try pumping the clutch pedal and see if it then goes into gear easier. Clutch could need bleeding.

Also check under the car and make sure the gear selector lever isn't damaged and that the roll pin is still in its proper place.

#3 yorkshirechris

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Posted 12 July 2007 - 05:41 PM

Try pumping the clutch pedal and see if it then goes into gear easier. Clutch could need bleeding.

Also check under the car and make sure the gear selector lever isn't damaged and that the roll pin is still in its proper place.


I wouldn't know which is the gear selector lever or the roll pin if they hit me in the face... any pictures please?

#4 minislapper

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 06:41 AM

You got a Haynes manual yet? If not, you'd do well to get a copy. Gear selector.....get under the car. You can't miss it. The roll pin holds said selector to the gearbox.

#5 yorkshirechris

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 03:06 PM

You got a Haynes manual yet? If not, you'd do well to get a copy. Gear selector.....get under the car. You can't miss it. The roll pin holds said selector to the gearbox.


Is the gear selector the part at the bottom of the actual gear stick, attached onto the underneath of the car with two rubber shocks & bolts? If so, this is probably damaged slightly because a couple of weeks ago I broke the shocks whilst driving (by bashing the gear knob back on the stick) and it hit the ground for about 50yds... Is it a fragile thing or would it survive such a thing?

#6 minislapper

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 07:45 PM

Erm yes, that's probably a LOT to do with your current problem. What do you mean you broke the shocks by bashing the gear knob? Don't understand what you mean.

If you've hit the ground with the underside of the car, you might want to check you've not damaged the sump too.

#7 yorkshirechris

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 08:54 PM

Erm yes, that's probably a LOT to do with your current problem. What do you mean you broke the shocks by bashing the gear knob? Don't understand what you mean.

If you've hit the ground with the underside of the car, you might want to check you've not damaged the sump too.


Cutting a long story short I had the gearknob off (this was the old one which was ill-fitting) and thought I'd put it back on properly... but I hadn't, so when driving the gearknob came off in my hand... not realising the gearstick is quite fragile I attempted to force the gearknob back on the stick by whacking it (silly I know, lol) onto the stick. The gearstick then fell down through the floor. Basically by whacking it I'd snapped the bolts/rubber shocks which held that part of the box onto the underneath of the car (directly underneath the gearstick). It dragged on the floor for approximately 20yds at about 2-10mph whilst I pulled over, got out my AA card & mobile >_<

Having called the AA out he strapped the box part to the floor just to get me home. It was then fixed (2 new rubber shocks bought & fitted by steve@minifixit ... seem to be there more than I'm at home at the minute! lol) and a new gearknobfitted for good measure.

I didn't hit the ground or a brick or anything so nothing else should be damaged. The shuddering in 1st/2nd has always been a problem since I've had the car, it hasn't just started or got worse since that "accident"..

have you got MSN mini slapper?

#8 minislapper

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 09:33 PM

You could have said all that to start with >_<

Sorry, don't have MSN.

Shuddering in low gears can be a clutch problem, nothing to do with the gear change thing.

The unit is held to the floor by 4 bolts if I remember correctly. Not sure (if it was fitted correctly) you'd be able to knock it off just by bashing the gearknob. Maybe something wasn't fitted correctly to start with. If the selector unit has been put under strain I suppose it's possible it has caused some other damage other than just a straight repair. Steve knows what he's doing so I'm sure he's done a good job.

If the reverse problem has only started since the gearknob incident then it would suggest that something's not right.

Maybe it's worth taking everything apart and making sure nothing is bent before it's assembled properly again?

#9 yorkshirechris

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 09:42 PM

You could have said all that to start with :thumbsup:

Sorry, don't have MSN.

Shuddering in low gears can be a clutch problem, nothing to do with the gear change thing.

The unit is held to the floor by 4 bolts if I remember correctly. Not sure (if it was fitted correctly) you'd be able to knock it off just by bashing the gearknob. Maybe something wasn't fitted correctly to start with. If the selector unit has been put under strain I suppose it's possible it has caused some other damage other than just a straight repair. Steve knows what he's doing so I'm sure he's done a good job.

If the reverse problem has only started since the gearknob incident then it would suggest that something's not right.

Maybe it's worth taking everything apart and making sure nothing is bent before it's assembled properly again?


I suspect the clutch, because it's biting near the top (i.e. it won't "take" the gear until my foot is almost off the clutch, if you get me) would that be an indication the clutch may be going? It's strange because I don't have to force the car into gear, it slides straight in but it's not really loose either, the gear change seems perfect it's when I take my foot off the clutch when it shudders. I might be jumping over my on knowledge here but does that mean the gear "selector" is fine?

The actual bolts didn't snap when I bashed it but as steve told me (and the AA man) the rubber splits easily as it's just basically a bonded piece of rubber.

I daren't take anything apart because 1 i don't have any tools and 2. it's my daily drive and don't want to end up it being off the road because of silly me again >_< haha

#10 Ethel

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 09:52 PM

Reverse doesn't have syncro so it's usually the first to show trouble if your clutch is sticking. the juddering and trouble with 1st 'n 2nd would suggest this too. It could just be clutch hydraulics try puming the pedal a couple of times before you change gear to see if that improves things.

Even just having the engine idling too fast can cause gear selection problems.

There's a mild steel plate on the bottom of the rod gear selector assembly with a little tab welded to the inside that you lift the gearstick over to select reverse so if bouncing down the road has dinted that plate that too could effect selecting reverse but I think you'd notice as your lever would be stiff...

Anyone else want to? Ok, suppose I'll have to then - Oerrr Missus!

#11 yorkshirechris

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 10:31 PM

Reverse doesn't have syncro so it's usually the first to show trouble if your clutch is sticking. the juddering and trouble with 1st 'n 2nd would suggest this too. It could just be clutch hydraulics try puming the pedal a couple of times before you change gear to see if that improves things.

Even just having the engine idling too fast can cause gear selection problems.

There's a mild steel plate on the bottom of the rod gear selector assembly with a little tab welded to the inside that you lift the gearstick over to select reverse so if bouncing down the road has dinted that plate that too could effect selecting reverse but I think you'd notice as your lever would be stiff...

Anyone else want to? Ok, suppose I'll have to then - Oerrr Missus!


After servicing the car was idling at about 800rpm (i've got a smiths rev counter) but several weeks after it started idling at around 1000 and now sometimes it's as much as 1100-1200, is this normal? it's strange, I can have it sat there engine running, idling at 1000 or 1200, and then rev it up slightly (say to 1500, 2000) and it'll drop back down and idle at 800-900 for a second and then go back up. Is there something wrong or am I talking complete waffle?

My lever isn't stiff thanks... not that I've noticed >_<

#12 minislapper

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 10:43 PM

Throttle cable sticking? Either at the pedal end or the carb end?

#13 Ethel

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 11:03 PM

Sounds like it's running a bit rich, is your tailpipe sooty?

A blocked air filter would also cause it to run rich was that changed?

#14 yorkshirechris

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Posted 14 July 2007 - 10:43 AM

Sounds like it's running a bit rich, is your tailpipe sooty?

A blocked air filter would also cause it to run rich was that changed?


Yes the air filter was changed. Depends what you mean by sooty, I wouldn't say it is personally.

#15 Ethel

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Posted 14 July 2007 - 11:00 AM

Sooty as in black, as if you held something over a candle, it would show on your plugs too.

What carb have you got does it have a lifter pin for checking the mixture?




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