Thanks for that.
The fuel gauge is the correct type for the sending unit you posted a picture of previously. The power wire is also properly run between the stabilizer's "I" terminal and the gauge. You'll need a second wire between the other "I" terminal and the temperature gauge... once you sort out the issue with the stabilizer.
I have corresponded with people with the late model programmable Smiths tachs from Caerbont. However, I have not worked on them personally. I remember that there are multiple switch settings for the type of ignition system you have. Some support documents are on the Caerbont web site. If you didn't get copies from the previous owner I encourage you to visit the Caerbont web site and download the information from there.
As mentioned previously, your next step is to figure out if there is anything wrong with the stabilizer and/or replace it so you have 10V to the gauges.
Help to get the Gauges Working
Started by
I-B-Quick
, Jul 20 2007 10:02 AM
17 replies to this topic
#16
dklawson
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Moved Into The Garage
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Posted 09 August 2007 - 12:14 PM
#17
I-B-Quick
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Posted 09 August 2007 - 09:32 PM
Bit of an update.
I can confirm the voltage stabilzer is at fault. With the fuel sender correctly wired now and by by-passing the stabilzer I finally have a reading on the fuel gauge. I'm hoping I will have the same result with the temp gauge but need to start it up over the weekend to find out.
Not out of the woods yet though as the rev counter switches appear to tie up with the instructions on the Caerbont web site but that didn't work and there are still several disconnected wires to identify in the loom.
But there seems some light at the end of the tunnel.
I can confirm the voltage stabilzer is at fault. With the fuel sender correctly wired now and by by-passing the stabilzer I finally have a reading on the fuel gauge. I'm hoping I will have the same result with the temp gauge but need to start it up over the weekend to find out.
Not out of the woods yet though as the rev counter switches appear to tie up with the instructions on the Caerbont web site but that didn't work and there are still several disconnected wires to identify in the loom.
But there seems some light at the end of the tunnel.
#18
dklawson
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Moved Into The Garage
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Posted 10 August 2007 - 12:16 PM
You can test the temperature gauge without running the engine. With the ignition on, return to the temperature sending unit. Disconnect the wire attached to it and connect the bare connector to chassis ground while a friend watches the gauge. If it goes to "hot", then the wiring and gauge are OK. Of course, this does not test the sending unit itself.
Did you mention earlier what type of ignition you have? From memory, the new Smiths tachs have at least three combinations of switch settings possible for different ignition types. Perhaps you just haven't got the right one dialed in yet.
Did you mention earlier what type of ignition you have? From memory, the new Smiths tachs have at least three combinations of switch settings possible for different ignition types. Perhaps you just haven't got the right one dialed in yet.
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