16 replies to this topic

[_Ad_]

Just spraying a Suzuki GS750 for my dad with black cellulose and was just wondering what is the recommended length of time I should leave it to dry for before coloursanding and polishing?? I'd estimate I put about 12 coats on all together, bare metal respray.

Cheers!

[panelbeaterpeter]

Leave it until you can apply pressure with the end your finger nail and it doesn't mark it at all. That's how I tell if paint is dry enough to polish.

[roofless]

give it a day or so.

relax - admire - feel proud in your achievement and dont rush and c*ck it up due to impatience - like what I did.

have you used a lacquer over the top?

[_Ad_]

Sounds good enough to me lol!

Cheers mate

[_Ad_]

give it a day or so.

relax - admire - feel proud in your achievement and dont rush and c*ck it up due to impatience - like what I did.

have you used a lacquer over the top?

I've sprayed a few bikes before but this one is going to be up to on the road concours standard so I need get it spot on really!

Just wanted see what other peoples opinions were on it

No laquer its just a 1k gloss top coat.

[_Ad_]

Heres a side panel I sprayed about a week ago and cut back today, hoping I can get the tank the same!!

Attached Files

•  DSC00782.jpg   98.88K   44 downloads

[_Ad_]

Oh another quick question... I had a problem before on another bike where the celly paint would stay fine for a few days after spraying then develop indents and ruts, crazing really in the surface, what would cause that? All the prep was fine, but I didn't bare metal any of that one so could it of been what was underneath the primer causing it?? Really puzzled me!

Attached Files

•  DSC00784.jpg   142.56K   27 downloads

Edited by _Ad_, 30 July 2007 - 07:39 PM.

[roofless]

panel beater peter will know more on this front but I would hazard a guess at reactions between paint types. or a problem with the thinners you are using perhaps?

All I know is I've cocked up more paint jobs than a little due to rushing and I was told to be far more patient - its paid off and by using lower pressures, better paint, more thinners and longer drying times I've had some pretty good results recently.

A decent gun helps as well - ditched my Kestrel second hand gun for a new Sata and its made hell of a difference in final finish.

[roofless]

Heres a side panel I sprayed about a week ago and cut back today, hoping I can get the tank the same!!

looking good - you should be well proud of that.

[_Ad_]

or a problem with the thinners you are using perhaps?

Thats what I was thinking to be honest but theres no reason why they should've caused it really as they were the most expensive top gloss thinners I could get locally and everything was mixed accurately. Could've been a faulty batch I suppose.

[Woody]

This sound like the pait you used reacted with the paint that was allready on the tank , the thinners in the paint attacks what is under , soaking in as the paint dries breaking down what is under it , take it back to bare metal or use an isolator coat like barcoat

[_Ad_]

That would make sense really, definitely bare metalling it anyway when I get round to it

[R1minimagic]

I've had this before and it is really annoying. The primer coat is absolutely perfect but it gets some small crazing when you put the top coat on. I switched to a different primer and it was fine so i dont use that primer anymore.

[_Ad_]

Yeah that could be another reason.

Anyway I've got this one all done now!!

Not come up bad seen as though they're it's original 30 year old panels!

Edited by _Ad_, 31 July 2007 - 08:52 PM.

[panelbeaterpeter]

yeah it's a reaction between the two kinds of paints. The top coat kind of "melts" the old paint underneat and it has a bit of an argument. Always best to strip totally and re-prime or as woody says, use barcoat, but even that is always a bit dodgy if you ask me!