18 replies to this topic

[Mincento]

On monday dad took my equinox (1275 SPi on a 96) to work it was fine on way there in fact he quite liked it and said it was better than my arosa

on the way home though things changed, two streets from his works all of suddent he couldnt go into second and when he tried it made a rotating metal knocking noise, naturally he cruised it home and when i spoke to him at night while at work he told me about it, i assumed he was exagerating the problem so when i got in i took the car out and sure enough there is a light metal rattling/knocking noise when setting off and then when you go for 2nd it makes it really loud and you can feel it and cant actually engage second

next morning i was pulling it out the drive to pull it donw the bottom but on reversing out there was a loud bang and total loss of drive , tried it again but nothing so coasted it down the drive organised an engine crane then 20 minutes later started it up and reversed it up the drive then tried 1st and that also worked so parked it neatly and left it there

today came to have a look at it and drive 2M's and all of a sudden there is aloud bang and a loss of drive but it does drive both backwards and forwards just every time it bangs you have to take it out of gear go throught the gate then put it back in

i will say that since having the car i noticed that the exhaust system is that poo designed that it sits pressed against the selector box underneath, also when setting off from junctions and then going into second or changing gear hard in general there has been a thud which we pretty much narrowed down to engine mount at the bottom on passenger side which funnily enough i was doing this week

Mate thinks its the gearbox, and has exploded in some way (it certianly sounded like it) i think it could be a CV joint but that may be hopefull thinking on my part

im tottally peed off with the car at present to be honest, i brought it to replace my arosa till i get my new 172/182 in feb but at this rate the arosa is going nowhere

wayne

[Sprocket]

wich gear does this happen in? second? are you sure its not just popping out of gear? Its very common!! my last gearbox suffered this

[Guess-Works.com]

That sort of intemittent 'locking' sounds like the double roller breaking up...

[annodomini2]

Does it rev freely in neutral or does it do the same thing?

[cowboy]

send it to guessworks for an overhaul

[Mincento]

happens in first or reverse (only gears can use on drive)

thats another thing try to start it and it kills itself like when you start a car in gear, put clutch in and starts up fine and revs freely but as soon as you start releasing clutch it starts to die (but doesnt move) this is in neutral on the gate but im not sure if its permanently locked in gear in some way

a mate came down and tried it last night while i was at work and he apparently is definate its the diff?

the engine does need to come out doesnt it?

wayne

[Guess-Works.com]

Yup, engine out....

[Mincento]

Yup, engine out....

********...... > thats my weekend sorted then

cheers for replys

wayne

[Ethel]

At least it's a Mini - when the gearbox on my van died I was looking at anything from £400 to £2100 for a replacement.

[Mincento]

At least it's a Mini - when the gearbox on my van died I was looking at anything from £400 to £2100 for a replacement.

whats annoyed me most to be nonest is there is 1 weeks insurance left on it and im not going to get use it again obviously till fixed which isnt likely to be before wednesday

and as above the arosa is meant to be forsale now as insurance is up in a month so was taking out a policy on mini and using that as daily driver till feb but at this rate im not sure i trust it enough to go and spend a years premium on it

just had a look and from what i can see either way i will have to bleed brakes etc as well? as if it goes out through the bottom (subframe off jobby) then i will have to disconnect brake lines and if i take it out through the top i will have to disconnect and remall all the servo

wayne

[mini-majic]

instead of taking the subframe off with the calipers on meaning that you would have to bleed them after you could just take the calipers off and then rebuild it with the wheel on and not the calipers so as that when you drop the subby out you can wheel that around on the wheels easily but then you dont have to bleed the brakes as you havn't removed any pipes





Maybe.......

Edited by mini-majic, 03 August 2007 - 09:16 PM.

[Sprocket]

instead of taking the subframe off with the calipers on meaning that you would have to bleed them after you could just take the calipers off and then rebuild it with the wheel on and not the calipers so as that when you drop the subby out you can wheel that around on the wheels easily but then you dont have to bleed the brakes as you havn't removed any pipes





Maybe.......

The caliper hoses are connected through the subframe. Either way you take the engine out you will need to blead the brakes, subframe out you have to disconnect the brake lines, engine out the top and you have to disconnect the master cylinder and servo

[Mincento]

instead of taking the subframe off with the calipers on meaning that you would have to bleed them after you could just take the calipers off and then rebuild it with the wheel on and not the calipers so as that when you drop the subby out you can wheel that around on the wheels easily but then you dont have to bleed the brakes as you havn't removed any pipes





Maybe.......

The caliper hoses are connected through the subframe. Either way you take the engine out you will need to blead the brakes, subframe out you have to disconnect the brake lines, engine out the top and you have to disconnect the master cylinder and servo

exactly what i thought, but which would you do?

im starting in the morning and im almost set on taking out throgh the bottom at the moment, but my brother thinks i should take it out through the top to save faffiing around with the frame as well?

wayne

[cowboy]

if you have an engine hoist then take it out of the top.

if not do what i did, take the subframe off the car.

you will only need to remove 1 brake pipe, thats the one going to the front brakes from the regulator on the bulk head

then all the wires from the engine
steering ball joints from the hubs,
shock absorbers
speedo cable
heater hoses
cables, acc , choke, heater
gear selector
remove the exhaust. i also removed the carb and the manifold
fuel pipe to pump

i think thats if

[Mincento]

if you have an engine hoist then take it out of the top.

if not do what i did, take the subframe off the car.

you will only need to remove 1 brake pipe, thats the one going to the front brakes from the regulator on the bulk head

thanks for that advice i was under the impression i had got to disconnect the brake lines underneath the car and assumed one for each side, pleased i only have to concentrate on one


then all the wires from the engine nearly all done but seems to have more connections than my corsa sport did

steering ball joints from the hubs, got to do this (you mean track rod ends dont you?)

shock absorbers easy

speedo cable was gonna disconnect from dash and drag though?

heater hoses all done, brother got coolant everywhere

cables, acc , choke, heater accelerater done, cant find the choke one and heater is done

gear selector got to do the dreaded roll pin

remove the exhaust. i also removed the carb and the manifold started on exhaust but cat joints are too tight and dont want to snap the flanges , SPi inlet and TB are massive so have got to come off

fuel pipe to pump got to rememeber to depressurise the system and then disconnect both pipes

thanks again for replys

wayne