The Understains
Started by
Teapot
, Aug 21 2007 09:49 PM
12 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 21 August 2007 - 09:49 PM
This is the scrappiest bit of the rear underside of my pickup where the fuel tank normally goes, so while the tank is out I'd like to clean and seal the whole area from side to side. None of the rust has actually eaten through. What's the best way about it, please?
#2
Posted 21 August 2007 - 09:54 PM
If you have an small angle grinder that you can get up there with, use it with one of those stiff wire brushes on the end. nothing removes rust and paint faster and better. then use rust killer, then zinc rich anti rust primer, then hammerite paint on top. Should keep it at bay for a bit!
#3
Posted 21 August 2007 - 09:55 PM
depends on how long you have... and what budget, you could go at it with a wire brush, sand blast it paint with hammerite... up to you.
#4
Posted 22 August 2007 - 03:17 AM
As above... strip to bare metal. Sometimes the thicker undercoating can be chipped off with a putty knife leaving only residual deposits to clean up with white spirit and ScotchBrite pads. A heat gun and putty knife can help remove thicker deposits that won't chip off.
Once bare, treat the rust with phosphoric acid then prime and paint. I don't know if this is an option in the U.K. but over here a common coating to underbodies (and truck beds) is a urethane textured spray often referred to by its brand name, RhinoLiner. It forms a very tough uniform coating.
Once bare, treat the rust with phosphoric acid then prime and paint. I don't know if this is an option in the U.K. but over here a common coating to underbodies (and truck beds) is a urethane textured spray often referred to by its brand name, RhinoLiner. It forms a very tough uniform coating.
#5
Posted 22 August 2007 - 06:52 AM
Do not use hammerite. It is too brittle and you will end up with a rotten area in a short length of time.
Use a few coats of good primer then orginary paint to seal the primer then cover the area in waxoyl or stonechip-type stuff. This does not go brittle and crack or flake off so will continue to keep the area covered.
Use a few coats of good primer then orginary paint to seal the primer then cover the area in waxoyl or stonechip-type stuff. This does not go brittle and crack or flake off so will continue to keep the area covered.
#6
Posted 22 August 2007 - 07:58 AM
i would suggest some sort of stone chip its like under seal wurth do one i believe which can be painted over
#7
Posted 22 August 2007 - 08:04 AM
OK thanks. I've been using the search button as well and now have a plan. The pinned FAQs are full of knowledge but it always helps to know just how to apply it to your own little task.
Another related question just before I get cracking: here is the fuel tank -- the bottom side which gets most exposure, so it's a bit grungy. The other sides are in pretty good condition. Something abrasive, wipe clean and then rust cure? Then stonechip?
Another related question just before I get cracking: here is the fuel tank -- the bottom side which gets most exposure, so it's a bit grungy. The other sides are in pretty good condition. Something abrasive, wipe clean and then rust cure? Then stonechip?
#8
Posted 22 August 2007 - 08:18 PM
Clean it up like you would bodywork. Rust proof then cover the thing in waxoyl, especially the part which sits against the bodywork of the car which you can't get to easily unless you take the tank off again.
#9
Posted 22 August 2007 - 08:32 PM
but over here a common coating to underbodies (and truck beds) is a urethane textured spray often referred to by its brand name, RhinoLiner. It forms a very tough uniform coating.
I think this is what you mean ...... http://www.line-x.com/
We have it done to our new heavy goods and vans at work. Its brilliant stuff. We had a chemical carrying van lined inside, you can wash it out, everywhere is sealed, every gap and crack. brilliant. If i bought a new shell, id have this done to the underside and floors inside before i did anything else.
#10
Posted 22 August 2007 - 09:59 PM
OK thanks again. Jordie, there is a Rhino Liner (see here) as well as LineX. One or other look as if they'd do a good job sealing the load bed. I'll investigate further.
#11
Posted 22 August 2007 - 10:02 PM
Aye, look the same sorta thing. If i ever get some space to do a full shell rebuild, im gunna get mine done.
#13
Posted 23 August 2007 - 08:40 AM
Ow my brain hurts
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