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How Do You Properly Fit...


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#1 BiMU

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 10:03 AM

I bought the minispares adjustable tie bars with the accompanying bushes. Now... am I right in thinking that I first loosen nuts.
  • Then jack up the mini
  • Remove the wheel
  • Take off the old tie bars
  • Adjust the new ones to the same length
  • Refit new ones
  • Put wheel back on
  • Mini back on the ground
  • ...Then re-tighten tie bar?
Is this all I need to do?

Thanks in advance!

Jason

#2 Ethel

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 10:10 AM

That'd do it. You may not even need to remove the wheel but you might need new, longer, bolts to fix them to the bottom arm if the ends of the new tie rods are thicker. of course, you'll also be fitting new bushes ;D.

If you later adjust their length slacken the nut at the subframe end so the bushes don't get twisted as you turn the rods to adjust the length.

#3 BiMU

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 10:17 AM

That'd do it. You may not even need to remove the wheel but you might need new, longer, bolts to fix them to the bottom arm if the ends of the new tie rods are thicker. of course, you'll also be fitting new bushes ;D.

If you later adjust their length slacken the nut at the subframe end so the bushes don't get twisted as you turn the rods to adjust the length.



Ah thanks alot. Will have a bash at it now!

#4 BiMU

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 12:05 PM

Ok had a go... thing is cant seem to get the but out... any ideas?

Attached File  TieBar.gif   243.77K   3 downloads

#5 Ethel

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 12:08 PM

Ok had a go... thing is cant seem to get the but out... any ideas?

Attached File  TieBar.gif   243.77K   3 downloads


Can you release the front of the rod first? Then it should move enough on the balljoint to get clearance.

#6 not so mini dan

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 12:08 PM

Undo that nut holding the arm on, should drop off and you could then knock it through with something.

#7 minivanman

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 12:16 PM

Its easiest to split the ball joint, comes straight out then.

#8 icklemini

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 12:50 PM

... - then get the castor angle setup (as this is one reason for fitting the tie-bars in the first place!)=

TTFN,
Dave

#9 Jammy

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 12:51 PM

And camber set up!

#10 icklemini

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 12:54 PM

tie-rods dont set the camber...

but adjusting the castor (via the tie rods) does effect the camber....

oh and the tracking will be out too...

Edited by icklemini, 21 September 2007 - 12:55 PM.


#11 Jammy

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 01:00 PM

Yea, sorry thats what I was getting at. If you change the castor the camber changes to, so whilst the tie-rods shouldn't be used to set the camber, they will change it when adjusted.

#12 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 01:24 PM

why dont you just turn the hub so the CV is not in the way !!!! Doh!

#13 BiMU

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 02:54 PM

why dont you just turn the hub so the CV is not in the way !!!! Doh!


Hehehe! I finally did it... and yes I did turn the hub DOH!... Problem is that I couldn't for the life of me get the otherside done. I couldn't get the bolt out, its seized or something because I've tried wacking it with a hammer and so on and its still doesnt budge!

So now I have a adjustable tie bar and a standard one. sdlfkjads;lfgkja;lfgj

I'm going to have a go at it again in a while... any suggestions!? I should really do a Project Thread as I'm continually replacing stuff!

#14 Jammy

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 02:54 PM

WD40 and heat.

#15 BiMU

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Posted 21 September 2007 - 03:07 PM

WD40 and heat.


So blow-torch! GAH I thought this was going to take 30mins to do!

Isn't it a bit close to the rubbers and joints? GRRRRR!




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