15 replies to this topic

[Kernal H]

Hello...

Sadly after replacing the slave cylinder my clutch still doesn't want to move The old did look very dodgey tho, and clutch feels smoother but still not disengaging. How can I free it without taking the whole thing apart???

Thanks

[adcyork]

Before you do anything just check that the clutch arm on the bell housing moves a decent amount. If all is well there then the only other option is to replace the clutch (looking at about £40 from motorfactors) as it would seem that the diaphragm is worn out, it happened to mine. Doing it in the car is a bit of a sod but it is doable.

Edited by adcyork, 22 September 2007 - 03:58 PM.

[Kernal H]

Yea it moves more than it did with the old slave on there... I don't think there's any leaks in the hydrolics now. How hard is it to replace the clutch? They're that much to buy but could I do it on my own?

[adcyork]

Are you sure you've bled the clutch properly? you might still have air in the system. It's not a hard job at all its just really awkward. I did it on my own yea. You just need a flywheel puller, trolley jack, torque wrench that goes upto about 200NM i think and a good selection of spanners, sockets, a breaker bar comes in handy, oh yea and a good old haynes manual.

[Big_Adam]

Do what I did with my stuck clutch.

The clutch plates can rust together. Warm the engine up to temp. Then take the handbrake off then turn the engine off. Put the car in gear and then start the car with your foot planted down on the clutch pedal.

Then a big violent thing happens and the clutch plates unstick,

[Kernal H]

Im pretty sure I've bled the system right... no air was coming out just fluid. Will the car jump forward if I do what Big adam says? It's on ramps atm is all. How should I wait until the engine is warm? I think the thermostat is gone as it never reads anything! I'll try the warm engine thing tomorrow

[Big_Adam]

Yep, it's going to jump....or drive off.

Warm up give it 10-15mins.

To be sure, you can get the car into gear WITHOUT the engine running? Just to make sure. If you can then do my method.

You'll want a clear area to do it in as the car might just start driving. Meaning anything in front of you is what your going to be running into. Just have your foot planted on the clutch when your start. It's a very violent thing to do but it worked for me with no damage to the clutch.

[Kernal H]

Yea it goes into gear fine when its not running. Would it be ok to do on a slope (basically any road here is on a hill!) more likey to be facing up hill.

[Jammy]

Is it a pre-Verto clutch (long clutch arm, slave on top of the trasfer casing)? Have you adjusted it properly?

[jack_marshall]

We did the same but had the front of the car on axle stands, handbrake on.

Same way but stops the car driving off.

[ginigwunkle]

if it never reads anythin then its the sensor not the thermo, would boil if thermo....

try the ball at the end of the long arm... maybe v work / broked like mine was ...

the clutch is a bugger,

undo all the top mounts on engine remove horn and things in the way to the left of engine, then the clutch side lower ones, remove rad top mount, bottle jack the sump to tilt the engine and then remove the clutch cover8 or so bolts....takes years!

check for wear, slave cyl push rod, long arm as said before(both ends) release bearing, if all ok then remove the clutch/flywheel setup...flywheel remover and a lil whack and the lot pops off hopefully(fingers crossed)

replace the clutch plate, diaphragm clean everything and put back,

torque the flywheel assembly to 125lb then replace everythin in the reverse order......

simple, last took me bout an hour n half....

[Kernal H]

Is it a pre-Verto clutch (long clutch arm, slave on top of the trasfer casing)? Have you adjusted it properly?

It's a verto clutch... just replaced the slave cylinder. Can that be adjusted or no? The old one looked buggered even if it did work. The new slave looked to be more "free".

We did the same but had the front of the car on axle stands, handbrake on.

Same way but stops the car driving off.

Is that as effective? I thought it was the sudden jolt to the system that made it unstick, and if the wheels are off the ground then it get that jolt... (??)

if it never reads anythin then its the sensor not the thermo, would boil if thermo....

try the ball at the end of the long arm... maybe v work / broked like mine was ...

the clutch is a bugger,

undo all the top mounts on engine remove horn and things in the way to the left of engine, then the clutch side lower ones, remove rad top mount, bottle jack the sump to tilt the engine and then remove the clutch cover8 or so bolts....takes years!

check for wear, slave cyl push rod, long arm as said before(both ends) release bearing, if all ok then remove the clutch/flywheel setup...flywheel remover and a lil whack and the lot pops off hopefully(fingers crossed)

replace the clutch plate, diaphragm clean everything and put back,

torque the flywheel assembly to 125lb then replace everythin in the reverse order......

simple, last took me bout an hour n half....

The haynes manual makes it seem more complex lol. Had you done it before? I don't have anything like a clutch/fly puller. Well maybe somewhere in the garage I'm using but I'd never find it!


Thanks for the replies

[Ethel]

If the clutch hasn't been used in a while it could well be sticking and might clear with some abuse of the starter motor...

Put the car in gear and hold the clutch in then turn the engine over.

DO NOT attempt this without all four wheels on the floor and ample clear space in front of the car!

[Kernal H]

I'll roll it out onto the road then try it... would it be ok to do on a slope? I could chock (sp?) the back wheels so then the handbrake isn't needed.

[adcyork]

If anything i'd say doing it on a hill would be more effective as it'll be harder for the car to start driving away. Just make sure you use good chocks.