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Clutch Master Prob?


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#1 MiniMrMan

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Posted 22 September 2007 - 10:17 PM

Ok, just fitted a new clutch to my vtech after i killed the last one with some slicks and a 1/4mile bit of road.
It don’t work... I am i being thick again or what? The clutch is a different type to what i had before, it is a 4 paddle jobby. Now i think the friction plate is maybe a bit thicker than the previously, because basically the clutch will not disengage when the pedal is pressed? I am using AP Racing master and was working perfect with the standard clutch.
I am thinking I need to extend the shaft that connects the pedal to the master and therefore extend the amount of fluid that is pushed to the slave?
Would this work or am i just totally wrong?
Thanks, don’t think that makes much sense but i think you may get the idea?!

#2 markrally

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Posted 22 September 2007 - 10:46 PM

sounds like you have the clutch plate in the wrong way round??

#3 jacko299

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Posted 23 September 2007 - 09:01 AM

have you taken off the reatining clips? we had a problem like this with a vauxhall nova, couldnt tell what it was until they shot off and fell out the inspection hole!

#4 MiniMrMan

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Posted 23 September 2007 - 09:10 AM

The clutch is all in the right way, and it should work... It does work, I can see everything by removing the rubber boot over the clutch arm. Its all moving, the only thing i can think is that it is not moving enough.
The fun. I have to make it work asap, as im off to be on the next mini films dvd on monday/tuesday!

#5 markrally

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Posted 23 September 2007 - 10:14 AM

Is the slave cylinder an external type or a centrifuguial type on the input shaft?
If its external, put a spring on the clutch release arm so its pulling on the clutch so the slave cylinder is only retracting back so far so that when you apply you clutch again you are in contact with the pressure plate immediately and not takin up the frreplay, as we have had this with the bike engine release cylinders and now chris fits a pressure spring to stop too much retraction.
if all else fails fit a std mini clutc cylinder as its a lot bigger than the AP 14mm diameter one you have and should move the clutch slave cylinder more.

Cheers

Edited by markrally73, 23 September 2007 - 12:38 PM.


#6 MiniMrMan

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Posted 23 September 2007 - 11:45 AM

Is the slave cylinder an external type or a centrifuguial type on the input shaft?
If its external, put a spring on the clutch release arm so its pulling on the clutch so the slave cylinder is only retracting back so far so that when you apply you clutch again you are in contact with the pressure plate immediately and not takin up the frreplay, as we have had this with the bike engine release cylinders and now chris fits a pressure spring to stop too much retraction.
if all else fails fit a std mini clutc cylinder as its a lot bigger than the AP 14mm you have and should move the clutch plenty.

Cheers


Thanks. It is an external type. There is no play on the end of the clutch arm it preloads the daiphram as soon as it moves, I can see this through the rubber boot around the arm. The slave will only move 50mm whatever you do, i have tried spacing where the clevis pin goes into the master, and still only 50mm on the other end.
Its like it needs to move like another 5mm!

#7 MiniMrMan

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Posted 23 September 2007 - 11:49 AM

Oh yeah, and i dont have a spare mini master. doh.

#8 markrally

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Posted 23 September 2007 - 12:41 PM

Oh yeah, and i dont have a spare mini master. doh.



only £20-30 from your motor factors on monday morning.

Can you rig up a clamp or something to wind the clutch out manually so you will be able to measure if it will actually release the cluch at all? some 10mm thread bar, a plate and some nuts so you can wind it out instead of your master cylinder just to check?

cheers

#9 MiniMrMan

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Posted 23 September 2007 - 01:09 PM

This is doing my tree in now.

Right i just tied something that takes the master/slave out of the question... i think.

I started the car in gear with clutch down...started fine!? BUT you can hear the gears chatering-it is still catching the clutch plate, just not enough to move the car, just enough to stop you cahnging gear without grinding. Also once the clutch gets warm from it catching it catches even more!? Er, What to do??

#10 Monte Busa

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Posted 26 September 2007 - 12:51 AM

So what happened with your clutch Andy? Did you make it to the filming?


This is doing my tree in now.

Right i just tied something that takes the master/slave out of the question... i think.

I started the car in gear with clutch down...started fine!? BUT you can hear the gears chatering-it is still catching the clutch plate, just not enough to move the car, just enough to stop you cahnging gear without grinding. Also once the clutch gets warm from it catching it catches even more!? Er, What to do??



#11 MiniMrMan

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Posted 26 September 2007 - 09:59 AM

[quote name='Monte Busa' date='Sep 26 2007, 01:51 AM' post='662446']
So what happened with your clutch Andy? Did you make it to the filming?

No, after waiting on the RAC for 5hours I got my car back to zcars. Chris recons it is the clutch plate the wrong war around after all that! Im nots so sure.. It went together so easily. But if it is it is. Im a spanner.

No i missed the filming. Be right, save me tyres for my use.
The dvd guy said he might be doing another one next year. Mine will hopefully have carpets and a supercharger by then.

#12 Spoonz

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Posted 30 November 2007 - 10:59 PM

its in the wrong way round, can tell u that now, ive fitted one to a k20 in a civic, its an easy mistake, (cough)
hopefully you didnt damge the pressure plate by over stressing it, but your find out when you take it out,

your not a spanner if you didnt, the plate is almsot identical both sides , its just got the springs furth out on one side which causes the issues.

ie look at the pic http://www.weaksauce.../t_17401_01.jpg

. spoonz




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