30 replies to this topic

[Se7enS1ns]

Er, sorry to be thick but at what stage of renovation does an old engine become a new engine, if at all? Se7enS1n's 1976 car has a 1300 rebuilt engine, right? How much rebuilt? How old was it before you rebuilt it?

Well im not sure how old the block is, or when it was bored +60thou to 1330, but guaging the wear of the bores id say only a few years. My idea of a rebuild was a fresh hone of the bores, not major but enough to remove glazing and give the oil something to bite to. Fresh set of rings, big ends and mains shells, thrust washers, and a freshly ground crank, set of cam followers and the obligatory lick of paint. Everything else was within tolerances.

I've heard that the Halfords Classic Oil that comes in that attractive Mini labelled tin is actually "Comma Oil".

You're probably right, i've no idea what Comma Oil is, mind.

Edited by Se7enS1ns, 26 September 2007 - 04:19 PM.

[Teapot]

've heard that the Halfords Classic Oil that comes in that attractive Mini labelled tin is actually "Comma Oil"

Comma Oil os based in Kent and has been going for 30 years. My local motor spares shop sells Comma wax-oyl type stuff instead of Waxoyl.

If you google for waxoyl, by the way, you find two suppliers each claiming theirs is genuine!

[taffy1967]

You're probably right, i've no idea what Comma Oil is, mind.

It's just another brand name that's all.

[taffy1967]

If you google for waxoyl, by the way, you find two suppliers each claiming theirs is genuine!

I believe it used to be Finnegans Waxoyl? But now it's Hammerite Waxoyl and it's obviously now owned by the famous Hammerite paint people?

[taffy1967]

Well that "Comma Oil" link has answered a few questions, because this is the cheap oil I saw for a fiver at Wilkinsons: -

Cheap Oil link

And I imagine this is the Classic stuff that Halfords also supplies: -

Classic Oil link

[Teapot]

Nice to unravel these mysteries! I expect every oil brand can be traced back to a goblin in the woods doling the stuff out of a magic well

[Grayedout]

The fact that its blackening now suggests it is mineral.

In what way ???????????

Thats a very broad statement to make.....can you elaborate ?

[Se7enS1ns]

Haha damnit, i wa hoping this thread would drop off the page before Grayedout came and banged our heads together.
Yes, elaborate!

*Cunningly diverts attention so doesnt get told off*

[Grayedout]

Trying my best to ignore it but there comes a point !!!

[Se7enS1ns]

Go on the sir, clarify for me if you will, and put an end to this post for us please.

Is Halfords classic car oil actually mineral, and would it be deemed suitable for the bedding in of a rebuilt engine?

[Grayedout]

Yes 99% sure it mineral.....you will find very few 20W/50 synthetic oils and if you do they wont be cheap !!!

Yes it should be okay for running in but probably on the higher end of the spec.

Ideally you want the cheapest 20w50 you can find for the initial stage but change it often.

[Se7enS1ns]

Right, thankyou Sir you're a gent, that'll do for me. Topic closed.

Quick, MOD, close this bloody topic before it kicks back off again!

[GraemeC]

That's me off down Wilko's then for 10 litres of their not so finest.
After I've used that I'll move up to the Comma Classic stuff (I'm sure it'll be cheaper than the exact same stuff from Halfords - or it will from my factors with my discount!).

[Grayedout]

The following is stolen from ML Motorsports who REALLY know what they are talking about !!

"When we prepare a new engine we set the static timing with the engine at tdc, rotor arm pointing at no1 plug lead on the cap etc,

Backfill the oil pump through the top union of the oil transfer pipe on the front of the block, I use an oil can and give it a 4 or 5 shots of oil, refit pipe banjo bolt, remove plugs and spin up engine on the starter unitl the oil light or gauge shows pressure.

Start engine and adjust timing so the engine will run happliy at fast idle, let the engine warm up for around 20-30 minutes, make sure you have a accurate temp gauge and observe the warm up process, if theres any leaks stop the engine and rectify straight away,

You also need to ensure the mixture settings are as lean as possible, to avoid washing the new bores and rings with excess fuel.

Depending on the bore quality,sizing etc the engine may start to overheat and slow down due to friction build up you must increase the idle speed to suit as if the engine is allowed to slow down and stop the rings will be damaged at next start up if it will! if this occours keep increasing the speed until eventually the engine speed will start to increase on its own telling you it has moved past this critical phase of running, if the temp starts to go over 3/4 drive the car gently and note if the temp goes down, if it does return home shut it down and let the engine cool, I normally wait an hour or so then re-torque the head studs and the next day re-set rocker clearances.

After re-torquing the head the car can be driven with a rev limit of 3000 rpm

Again the carb settings must be right for driving using a lean needle or depending on whats being used the needle for a std engine, we use a gas anylser up the tail pipe throughout the starting up and tuning process to ensure the fuelling is as lean as possible.

For running in we use the following method as a minimum:

1st 500 miles max 3000rpm then change oil (cheap 20/50)

2nd 500 miles max 4000rpm then change oil to good quality 20/50

After 1000 miles rolling road tune

Mixed driving town and open roads is best"

[Se7enS1ns]

Thanks for that mate, much appreciated i'll make note of that. Differs slightly from Calvers method, but the essentials are all there.

One for the FAQ's mods?