DIY head modifying
Started by
Brawlyrox
, Feb 16 2005 01:03 PM
21 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 16 February 2005 - 01:03 PM
Anybody ever had a go? I know I need a dremel or a drill with those type of attachments? Is it relatively easy, is there any online guides to doing mini heads?
Cheers Nick
Cheers Nick
#2
Posted 16 February 2005 - 01:57 PM
theres an section in vizards "modify" manual about modifying heads and AC Dodd has done an excellent article on the miniclassic forum
#3
Posted 16 February 2005 - 02:42 PM
ask flappyplasticbits
#4
Posted 16 February 2005 - 02:43 PM
You'll struggle with a dremel, the stones wear out in no time. You need something like this for the heavy work - head tools , then use a dremel for the final touching up.
Phil. :grin:
Phil. :grin:
#5
Posted 16 February 2005 - 03:27 PM
thanks all!!
#6
Posted 16 February 2005 - 04:55 PM
Very boring and time consuming!!!
Make sure to take care and not cut bits that you shouldn't! It's practically impossible to put metal back into the head, unless you really want to weld..
Not much else to go wrong really, so just buy a spare 1275 head and go crazy!
Make sure to take care and not cut bits that you shouldn't! It's practically impossible to put metal back into the head, unless you really want to weld..
Not much else to go wrong really, so just buy a spare 1275 head and go crazy!
#7
Posted 16 February 2005 - 09:21 PM
Speak to me nick
#8
Posted 16 February 2005 - 09:39 PM
I did mine with a dremel, took flippin ages, the next one I'm gonna get myself an air powered die drinder. Been looking for ages for a valve seat cutter so I can also increase valve size and quicky re-seat valves after replacing guides, but if you know someone who's got one then just as good...
#9
Posted 16 February 2005 - 10:47 PM
this sounds INCREDIBALY scetchy lol but what ever floats your boat, whats actualy involved?
#10
Posted 16 February 2005 - 10:52 PM
hmmmmmmm very intresting im gona be doing this soon to a spare mpi head
#11
Posted 17 February 2005 - 11:51 AM
thanks alot everybody, rich talk to me on msn
im hoping to get all the bits together if im any good and do some heads!!!
im hoping to get all the bits together if im any good and do some heads!!!
#12
Posted 17 February 2005 - 04:04 PM
Keep us posted, and piccies would be good, but also there was a good tip above, get yer-self a copy of the vizards manual, gives good advice on what's worth doing and what's not..
#14
Posted 17 February 2005 - 07:08 PM
The last one i did took 5 days of grinding with diamond burrs in an air driven die grinder - I dont think a dremel will be up to it really.
Visards book is good for getting the shape idea from, but knowing how far you can take the ports out is done thru experience and trial and error.
I posted a thread on here a while back with loads of pics on a head I was doing for Simon, is it still available Nick?
Nick, how quick would you need this head doing mate? I guess it'll be going on the turbo engine?
Visards book is good for getting the shape idea from, but knowing how far you can take the ports out is done thru experience and trial and error.
I posted a thread on here a while back with loads of pics on a head I was doing for Simon, is it still available Nick?
Nick, how quick would you need this head doing mate? I guess it'll be going on the turbo engine?
#15
Posted 17 February 2005 - 08:15 PM
It took me a good 3 hours (continuous, about 2 days worth of work altogether) to shape the chamber, one intake port, and the area around the exhaust and inlet valve ports on that one chamber.
That cylinder ports/ chamber are about 70% complete now.
This was done using a pneumatic die grinder with a large carbide bit to do the major grinding, and then a dremel with flexible shaft and a small carbide bit to do all the precision work afterwards...
Removing the beak takes longer than I thought it would (you might really want to do this mod if you plan on using the head for turbo since the beak removed will not only improve airflow in the chamber, but will also lower your compression significantly!)
That cylinder ports/ chamber are about 70% complete now.
This was done using a pneumatic die grinder with a large carbide bit to do the major grinding, and then a dremel with flexible shaft and a small carbide bit to do all the precision work afterwards...
Removing the beak takes longer than I thought it would (you might really want to do this mod if you plan on using the head for turbo since the beak removed will not only improve airflow in the chamber, but will also lower your compression significantly!)
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