
Bmw K1100 Head Conversion
#16
Posted 05 November 2007 - 10:32 PM
#17
Posted 05 November 2007 - 10:52 PM
With regards to the first questions...
I contemplated using carbs but for the effort it takes to sort out and PITA of balancing them it realy isn't worth it especially as everything is ready for injection.
The TB's are available on the 'bay for very little money so if your haven't got them it won't break the bank. One thing you will have to spend a little extra on would be the ECU and accompanying sensors etc.
I really woldn't worry too much about the clutch if your looking at 110bhp an Orange should be fine. A grey plate is easily capable of alot as mentioned above, and a double grey is just not good for thrusts..lol
If your going down the route of using a kit, I can't recommend specialist components enough, John's a real genuine bloke and always has enough time for questions, and their products are top quality!!! If your using a kit then you will have to use the original cam as they have an idler pulley fitted to it and you may aswell keep the original oil pump in that case, besides there is no advantage in having an electric oil pump apart from at start up.
With regards to 'box and drops, standard item should be more than capable if in good condition, but for piece of mid I would fit a cross pin diff.
#18
Posted 05 November 2007 - 11:32 PM
I think what I'm gonna do is as follows;
Get a bog standard good 1275 block and gearbox.
Fit a cross pin diff, keep the cam or the other associated bits it powers.
Get the K1100 block, throttle bodies and sensors from my dad's spare bike (if he lets me!)
Get SC to do the machine work on the head and block, maybe go for a rebore to 1293 and a new set of pistons at the same time if the block needs it.
Buy the SC 16v kit
Fit a megajolt ignition system Ford EDIS and trigger wheel set up.
Put together and hey presto!
In the future could look at modifying the cams and porting the head, but I think I'll walk before I try running.
I don't mind the hijack if it's on topic, the thought of a turbo twin cam 16v A series is mouth watering!
#19
Posted 06 November 2007 - 12:12 AM
if your fitting the throttle bodies yourl need a managment system to controll the fueling, the megajolt is just ignition so an ECU including ignition and fueling will be required
some machine work will be required on the pistons aswell to allow for valve clearence, once you know ur dad will sell the bike buy the guide, makes a good read and then it will really allow you to plan what to do on the engine and finalise the spec
#20
Posted 06 November 2007 - 12:59 PM

Edited by matty..., 06 November 2007 - 01:02 PM.
#21
Posted 22 February 2008 - 11:21 PM
I'm building an engine with a K1200 head my self at the moment which I'll using for circuit racing.
There are too many parts to run though in one message that you need to do but I'll try!
It's best to leave in the 'A' cam for the oil pump but grind off the lobes to reduce flung weight.
Using carbs is the most simplest route, I'm using DTAFAST ecu which is good but not easy to set up.
Don't using SC, because you will only be disappointed when parts don't fit.
Morspeed are better but not perfect, some parts may not fit.
For manifold only use maniflow and buy direct you'll get it quicker and cheaper.
SC stainless steel one is made wrong and doesn't fit!
For your gearbox, if you want big power a straight cut dog gear set is best but at a big price.
You must increase block to box studs from 1/4 to 5/16, a lot of work but needed.
A grey pressure plate is a must with a paddle clutch plate. Not every bodies cup of tea because
it's like a switch.
And that only the start. It took me 18 month to set up before I started building and I'm allmost completed.
Looking for turn over next month. 180bhp is the target.
I hope that is some help.
Best of luck.....
#22
Posted 23 February 2008 - 11:35 PM
#23
Posted 24 February 2008 - 01:41 PM

I really can't see the point in using carbs as your losing one of the main advantages of fitting a K head? A 'K build' is not a cheap project (no matter how much you make yourself) so its definitely worth while going the full hog and injecting aswel...
Just my 2p worth...
#24
Posted 27 February 2008 - 02:10 AM
#25
Posted 27 February 2008 - 11:19 PM
Each to there own?
#26
Posted 28 February 2008 - 05:20 AM
#27
Posted 01 March 2008 - 01:33 AM
He has had a kit from 'another' company along with there manifold, and none of it fitted, he is a very knowlegable man who has raced proffesionaly for years and years.
He then came to myself and had a complete engine conversion which i admit was slightly ill fitting due to my kits being designed for the K100/K1100 heads and the K1200 is slightly taller, so adjustments had to be made. the maniflow manifold is far far superior and fits perfect but is harder to obtain as they are very busy, too busy to make 1 manifold.
to be honest we are seriously thinking about stopping the sale of DIY kits as we have sold 38 to date, and only 5 of these are up and running, i personally think they are a misleading item as once you get into the conversion properly you will find the £650 kit turns into £3000+ to actually get it running properly.
we have sold 24 complete dyno'd engines all over the world and although thats out of most peoples budget its the only way to ensure its done 100%
Edited by Engine_tuner, 08 March 2008 - 11:30 PM.
#28
Posted 01 March 2008 - 08:43 AM
Michael
#29
Posted 02 March 2008 - 02:13 AM
#30
Posted 02 March 2008 - 04:02 AM
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users