20 replies to this topic

[Jammy]

Hmmmm, we really need an FAQ on this!

[Ethel]

Hmmmm, we really need an FAQ on this!

Q. Ignition

A. Chuck it all in the bin 'n fit Megajolt

There you go

[1984mini25]

Couple of strange things happened, rev counter didnt work (hadn't reconnected two white/black wires to negative side of coil!?), indicators worked but didnt flash (assumed flasher unit blown but then fixed themselves after i tidyed up the wires), all lights stopped working (blame falls on dodgy fuse box which i must fix).

Rev counter - Reconnect those wires and the rev counter will work again.
Indicators – probably corroded connections some were
Fuse box – get a new one, there not expensive, and when you come to fit it, clean or replace any corroded connectors and smear some grease over the back of the fuse box, as this will do 2 things, 1st it will stop the fuse box from rotting out the bulkhead and 2nd will also help stop the fuse box it’s self from corroding.

After sorting idle speed and roughly doing timing - (couldn't find marks to line up with strobescope - will ask my boss one lunchtime) all was good.

Hears a pick of the timing marks on the bottom pulley on the radiator end of the engine. Once you’ve found them turn the engine over by rocking the gar in gear and blob a bit of tip-ex on the notch in the pulley and another ton the relevant timing mark, which will make it easier to see them with the strobe, rather than lighting up all the grease/muck.

If I remember correctly it should be some were between 8 and 10 with the vacuum line disconnected at idle.
[attachment=44963:timing_s...ft_pully.JPG]

Havent taken her on the motorway yet but will see if she runs faster as before she couldnt go much more than 60 on the flat (juddering).

Have fun; I’ve had mine up to about 95 - 100 with the same ignition fitted.
Even if because it’s a 998 it takes a little while to get there.

[YellowPeril]

cheers matey - i had your email printed out with everyones favourite electronic dizzy pic of internet.

Managed to sort out indicators, rev counter and lights when doing it and will look at timing next weekend or when i get the time! - i was looking on the other side of the engine under the removable viewing plate!!

Regarding fuse box, I am thinking of instead of changing like for like, going for an 8 "blade fuse" fuse box and putting my front spots, and 2 other in-line fuses all in the same box. Figure i'll sort out all the wiring with better gas tight crimps instead of the plastic fast on covers that are on at the mo.

cheers for the help guys

[1984mini25]

The only problem with changing to blade fuses is the ratings are different, the glass ones will blow at what ever ratting, but the blade ones ratings are for continuous current, not when they blow. So you can’t just change the fuses for the same ratings as they are different and won’t act as the safety feature they were designed for, as by the time the fuse blows the wiring will all ready be toast.

What would be better is to keep the standard fuse box, but also add a second blade fuse box with power directly off the starter solenoid (first point from the battery) and use that for all you live feeds for the accessories, that way keeping all the new wiring separate from the rest of the car and should prevent overloading.

[baker_boy]

sorry to hi-jack this a little bit but i have a 1098 which i believe is an a series nt a+. what elec. ignition kit could i use for mine?

cheers