31 replies to this topic

[Matt]

but I dont know the first thing about wiring unfortunately

The original alarm contact switch could be used but I would recommend fitting a diode ( which acts as a "one way" electrical valve) to prevent odd occurences with the alarm system. Hope this helps

i was trying to make it easy so made no mention of diodes

[Danny_California]

Oh I know quite a lot about electronics, im doing physics at alevel and a lot of that is electrical components, and i took a small electronics course last year, but my practical skills are C**p!
How would I go about using the tilt switch option then? Mounting the tilt sensor on the boot door obviously, but ive never seen a system like that.

[M44K TS]

I'd really like it to come on automatically though...

so why dont you fit one with a tilt switch ?

My 306 cabriolet had one of those, aren't they basically ball bearings?

If you decide to go for one, i know 205's and some 306's use them, just go hunting for one in a scrapyard

[Bungle]

mine came from a local motor factors

[Silicon Skum]

A tilt switch is easy, you can get them from maplins:

http://www.maplin.co...o...y&doy=16m11

The current handling is a bit low if you plan to use ordinary automotive type bulb, so use a small relay to switch the bulb current. Would be fine to drive LEDs directly though.

OR you could use a magnet attached to the boot lid and a reed switch mounted near the boot seal, also Maplins:

http://www.maplin.co...;doy=16m11#spec

......Magnets:

http://www.maplin.co...o...y&doy=16m11

The current handling on the reed switch is fine to use with auto bulbs (up to 2 amps), and other types (LEDs, Neon etc.)

OR you could just use the same type of switch used for the alarm or door switches :

http://www.minispare....aspx?pid=37613

May need a longer stub on the switch than this one, or you could modify to suit (stick a bit on). Also rated for auto bulbs (interior light switch.....).


The choice is yours!

Any of the switches above will work as you want, as for the light it's self - anything you want. I used a couple of high brightness LEDs hidden in the oposite corners of the boot, it gives a good light to see by, but also looks cool as you can't see where the light comes from (LEDs give a spot light effect).

SS

[M44K TS]

only problem with reed switches is that dampness kills them


Working with them every day (intruder alarm systems) it's unreal how many go faulty, especially this time of year due to moisture/dampness

[lemmingzappa]

only problem with reed switches is that dampness kills them

quite ironic really

[Danny_California]

I like the reed switch idea, but I did think that myself when I first saw it, was just gonna ask how they would be affected by the damp!
I think the LEDs would give far to focused a beam, something like the interior lamp would give a wider, more practical glow. Although I suppose you could prove me wrong there with a bit of experience lol and maybe a picture

[Silicon Skum]

only problem with reed switches is that dampness kills them


Working with them every day (intruder alarm systems) it's unreal how many go faulty, especially this time of year due to moisture/dampness

That can happen to the cheapy ones that are sometimes used in alarm systems if used incorrectly (they were only ever designed to be used indoors in a nice warm, dry average house). Still carp though.

The sealed glass type should not be affected by the dampness - at least no more than an ordinary switch would be.

Although I suppose you could prove me wrong there with a bit of experience lol and maybe a picture biggrin.

No can do, as the mini is parked up for the winter, I've nicked the LEDs out of the boot for other uses. I have a couple of blue LEDs spare, I could hook them up and take a pic though, but not too sure if it would be worth it - blue light might not show up too well on the camera.....light would also look dimmer than it realy is.

I'll see what I can come up with if you really need a pic, but trust me - the high brightness white LEDs are MORE than enough to see what your doing (actually painfull to look at directly!). You could always use a single 6watt "Luxeon star" LED...........if you want something that is INSANELY BRIGHT!

SS

[Bungle]

my boot light from a motor factors had a mercury tilt switch

[Danny_California]

only problem with reed switches is that dampness kills them


Working with them every day (intruder alarm systems) it's unreal how many go faulty, especially this time of year due to moisture/dampness

That can happen to the cheapy ones that are sometimes used in alarm systems if used incorrectly (they were only ever designed to be used indoors in a nice warm, dry average house). Still carp though.

The sealed glass type should not be affected by the dampness - at least no more than an ordinary switch would be.

Although I suppose you could prove me wrong there with a bit of experience lol and maybe a picture biggrin.

No can do, as the mini is parked up for the winter, I've nicked the LEDs out of the boot for other uses. I have a couple of blue LEDs spare, I could hook them up and take a pic though, but not too sure if it would be worth it - blue light might not show up too well on the camera.....light would also look dimmer than it realy is.

I'll see what I can come up with if you really need a pic, but trust me - the high brightness white LEDs are MORE than enough to see what your doing (actually painfull to look at directly!). You could always use a single 6watt "Luxeon star" LED...........if you want something that is INSANELY BRIGHT!

SS

Thats alright mate, dont worry about it, you've been more than helpful!
I like the reed switch idea, if you reckon the glass sealed units will stand up to the damp then its worth a shot. That way I dont have to weld a switch into place like the alarm, and I can leave all the alarm wiring alone. Think an interior light will look a bit classier under close inspection than a pair of leds sticking out. Plus that way I can get a switched one to save battery.
I'll get this underway as soon as I've got the time/equipment, and post up some pics of it.
Cheers guys!

Edited by Danny_California, 16 November 2007 - 10:19 PM.

[Silicon Skum]

my boot light from a motor factors had a mercury tilt switch

I don't think your actually allowed to buy mercury switches anymore, they were (or were attempting to be) banned from common sale quite a few years ago, due to the fact they could be used for bomb making (tamper proof detonators), and had been by the IRA on a number of occasions. Also because they are liquid mercury filled.....and it a known toxic substance.

I still have a few in my parts draw, hand little things, with quite a good current handling.


SS

[M44K TS]

even heavy duty roller shutter contact's suffer from damp ingress which eventually leads to failure. And these are totally silicone sealed

[Andykettle]

As someone stated previously, Connect the red (positive) side directly to the battery terminal and the negative to the boot alarm switch, it DOES NOT affect it in anyway. I have done it myself to my freinds mini and works perfectly and is the simplest most straight forward way.
Basic picture i know but is all you need.

Edited by Andykettle, 16 November 2007 - 11:49 PM.

[kwacktastic]

I fitted a boot lamp in my '96 Sportspack and had problems with the alarm as a result. At first I didn't realise it was anything to do with the boot lamp, but soon worked it out. See my earlier entry for more details:

Alarm / boot lamp issue

The lamp itself is a standard 12v bayonet type interior lamp installed into the RHS of the boot (built into the boot liner kit). It gets its supply directly from the lighting circuit meaning the boot lamp will only work when the car lights are on. I thought this was the best solution as the boot is frequently left open for long periods when working on the car and this avoids a flat battery.

Good luck with your plan,

Kwack

Edited by kwacktastic, 17 November 2007 - 03:39 AM.