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Sand Paper Keeps Cloging


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#1 blue redtop

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 10:00 AM

hi,
my mini has been hand painted with something like gloss,it is terrible.
i have no electric in my garage so i went out and brought a cordless sander to make the job a bit quicker.
the problem is the sandpaper clogs up after 2 sec's.
ive even tried wetting it with water and a splash of fairy but the sticky stuff on the sand paper comes of and it fulls apart.
has anyone got any tricks/tips that can help me.
thanks
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#2 ratty

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 11:03 AM

I suggest you hire/borrow a petrol compressor thats caperable of running a DA sander

I dont know of any random orbital sanders that are cordless but you could use a small genny to power one

Edited by ratty, 22 November 2007 - 11:04 AM.


#3 Ethel

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 11:13 AM

Could it be the sander is melting the paint?

Production paper, Wet 'n Dry, is pretty speedy when used wet start with a really course grade.

Might be worth trying a test patch with your new paint, if it reacts with the brush paint you may need to strip the lot.

#4 blue redtop

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 11:36 AM

just been out and gave it a test with the new paint and sofar there is no bad reaction,so thats good.

ive got a orbital sander at work but ive got 3 months off work so i cant use it,and no electric in my garage.

ive gone through a tenners worth of sand paper just on the drivers door.

i dont know what to do. ;D

#5 Rodders

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 11:43 AM

if the paper is clogged and not ripped you can unclog it and use the paper again, it will take time but save you some money. I have used a wire brush for this when I have needed to at work,

As for stopping it clogging in the first place I cant help Sorry.

#6 imabitnaughtyxx

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 11:47 AM

are you wanting to strip whole panels??
to get to bare metal, from about 20 coats of paint including what looked to be wedgewood satinwood, we used nitromors, came right off in one go! very inpressive and cheaper than sandpaper anyday!

>waits for the usual no-alls to contradict as usual<

#7 blue redtop

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 02:16 PM

cheers for replies.

I'm just trying to make it smooth without taking it down to the metal to much.
its covered in runs at the min from the owner before me hand painting it with a brush.

Ive got some nitromors but will that be OK to use on fiberglass? the doors have been reskined in the past and replaced with a fiberglass skin.


I'm dreading whats under all the paint.
so far Ive done the passenger door and the rear passenger panel where the wheel arch is and found no filler yet but time will tell.
cheers all
jay

#8 Ethel

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 02:22 PM

I think Nitromors would eat fibreglass, not that I'm about to try it to find out ;D

#9 dklawson

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 02:26 PM

I'm just trying to make it smooth without taking it down to the metal to much.
its covered in runs at the min from the owner before me hand painting it with a brush.

Ive got some nitromors but will that be OK to use on fiberglass? the doors have been reskined in the past and replaced with a fiberglass skin.


Hi. I usually limit my posts to the tech forum but saw your thread at the top of the list when I logged in.

If the previous owner brush painted the car it's likely to have been done with an enamel. It's very hard to sand brushable enamel with out it tearing OR loading the sandpaper like you're experiencing. As unpleasant as this sounds, you really need to start with fairly coarse paper so it doesn't load as quickly and clean it with the wire brush as suggested above. All of the enamel will need to come off before you attempt a respray. Once you get the bulk of the enamel off, switch to finer paper to get a matte finish on the sub-paint and develop a surface to apply high-build primer to.

I assume Nitromors is a chemical paint stripper. Most fiberglass and body fillers are polyester based (not epoxy) and will therefore be softened or lifted by strong paint stripper. If you use it, be prepared to re-do the body work done previously.

#10 blue redtop

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 02:58 PM

thanks for all the info.
so nitromors is not good with fiberglass or filler, that's a shame.

i think ill use it where i can because after having a proper look at the paint on the car i think it will be best to take as much of the paint off as possable.the paint that has been brushed on isnt really sanding off its more like ripping of and leaving a edge so its not smooth.(like the kind fell said in the post above).

Ive never used nitromors (the misses has on a table).
will i need to scrape the paint or wash it off with water,

cheers.

#11 Bungle

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 03:06 PM

is it damp where your working

if the paint or sand paper is dam then the sanded off paint cant blow away as dust

it just sticks to the sand paper

#12 blue redtop

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 03:14 PM

is it damp where your working

if the paint or sand paper is dam then the sanded off paint cant blow away as dust

it just sticks to the sand paper


it has been raining today but the garage I'm working in is totally dry.
i think its just the paint like dklawson said.

i think ill go for it and remove the lot. then ill see how rusty it is and repair the parts that need repairing.

its just strange why someone would brush paint a car.

cheers for your input.
jay

#13 blue redtop

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 08:08 PM

just a quick one!!!!
has anyone ever rattle canned there mini?.
just wondering how much it costs in primer and paint cheers.

#14 MiNi FiZ

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 08:14 PM

just a quick one!!!!
has anyone ever rattle canned there mini?.
just wondering how much it costs in primer and paint cheers.



http://www.theminifo...x...c=40061&hl=

#15 ROD

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Posted 22 November 2007 - 08:15 PM

just a quick one!!!!
has anyone ever rattle canned there mini?.
just wondering how much it costs in primer and paint cheers.



It can be done,but it'd be better to hire/borrow a compresser and a spray gun and do it with this :kiss:




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