33 replies to this topic

[yorkshirechris]

Right, here's a list of things which I think MIGHT fail my MOT. Can I have an informed opinion on if I'm right or not please? The MOT isn't due till Feb 23rd, but I'm worried that if it's going to cost me hundreds of £ then I'll start saving up now.

So are these things an MOT fail?

1. When I put full lock on (either way) and set off, or accelerate, there's a clicking/clunking/knocking coming from the front wheel arch at both sides. It gets faster the faster I go. I've been told this is the CV joints that need replacing. Is this true, if so, are they an MOT fail? If it isn't true, what could it be and is it an MOT fail?

2. Right hand side front wheel catches slightly on the front of the arch when on full lock and the weight is on the front (i.e. braking). It's only noticable if you actually drive the car, I think if they have it on a 'flat' level and turn the wheel it shouldn't catch. Failure? Very trivial I know.

3. One of the rear brakes squeaks, but it's only usually when it's cold, and only usually when the weight is on the back, i.e. braking when reversing around a corner with the weight on that side... not sure exactly what it is, it's drums on the back, failure?

4. Rear screen de-mister doesn't work great... only one bar works!

5. I have a DIY dash inside and I've been told that it's an MOT fail because there isn't holes so you can see the indicator lights flashing when they're on? Also because of the same ill-fitting dash I can't see exactly what speed I'm doing if it's between 30 and 70 unless I duck down slightly (basically, you can't see the numbers 40 50 60 at normal driving position).

6. Wipers only work when flicked to the 2nd position, and don't park when you flick the stalk back. But they WORK, isn't that the main thing? (I've got a new stalk coming tomorrow but if that doesn't solve the problem, will it fail the MOT? the wiper motor and park switch are both brand new by the way).

Apart from those niggling things I can't see (bearing in mind I'm no mechanic) why they'd fail him. The floors are solid and have been hammerited inside and out - and waxoyled on the outside. The rear subframe has had a patch welded on, but the guy who did it assured me it will pass, it's a seam-weld, and has been undersealed, hammerited and waxoyled over. All the electrics are fine apart from the bits mentioned - the fog lights, hazards, indicators, brakes, sidelights, headlights, full beam, dash lights, interior light, etc all work fine. Boot floor is fine. The only other things I am worried about are stuff like ball joints, radius arms etc but I guess I'll just have to wait and see what they say about them because I don't have any jacks or tools to test or replace those bits.

Thanks...

Chris

[minislapper]

1. Yes if there is movement in the joint or they can hear any noise when spinning the wheel

2. Doubtful

3. Only if poor performance

4. No

5. Yes

6. No

[Sam Walters]

Right, here's a list of things which I think MIGHT fail my MOT. Can I have an informed opinion on if I'm right or not please? The MOT isn't due till Feb 23rd, but I'm worried that if it's going to cost me hundreds of £ then I'll start saving up now.

So are these things an MOT fail?

1. When I put full lock on (either way) and set off, or accelerate, there's a clicking/clunking/knocking coming from the front wheel arch at both sides. It gets faster the faster I go. I've been told this is the CV joints that need replacing. Is this true, if so, are they an MOT fail? If it isn't true, what could it be and is it an MOT fail?

2. Right hand side front wheel catches slightly on the front of the arch when on full lock and the weight is on the front (i.e. braking). It's only noticable if you actually drive the car, I think if they have it on a 'flat' level and turn the wheel it shouldn't catch. Failure? Very trivial I know.

3. One of the rear brakes squeaks, but it's only usually when it's cold, and only usually when the weight is on the back, i.e. braking when reversing around a corner with the weight on that side... not sure exactly what it is, it's drums on the back, failure?

4. Rear screen de-mister doesn't work great... only one bar works!

5. I have a DIY dash inside and I've been told that it's an MOT fail because there isn't holes so you can see the indicator lights flashing when they're on? Also because of the same ill-fitting dash I can't see exactly what speed I'm doing if it's between 30 and 70 unless I duck down slightly (basically, you can't see the numbers 40 50 60 at normal driving position).

6. Wipers only work when flicked to the 2nd position, and don't park when you flick the stalk back. But they WORK, isn't that the main thing? (I've got a new stalk coming tomorrow but if that doesn't solve the problem, will it fail the MOT? the wiper motor and park switch are both brand new by the way).

Apart from those niggling things I can't see (bearing in mind I'm no mechanic) why they'd fail him. The floors are solid and have been hammerited inside and out - and waxoyled on the outside. The rear subframe has had a patch welded on, but the guy who did it assured me it will pass, it's a seam-weld, and has been undersealed, hammerited and waxoyled over. All the electrics are fine apart from the bits mentioned - the fog lights, hazards, indicators, brakes, sidelights, headlights, full beam, dash lights, interior light, etc all work fine. Boot floor is fine. The only other things I am worried about are stuff like ball joints, radius arms etc but I guess I'll just have to wait and see what they say about them because I don't have any jacks or tools to test or replace those bits.

Thanks...

Chris

one should be sorted mot or not you need to get fix it as they could simply give way and it will leave you stranded. and yes it will fail an mot as its play in the wheels.

two isent a problem

three: the brakes only have to be balanced side to side and actually work.

four doesnt matter anyway.

five: now thats a problem, mot or not you need to get it sorted.

[insamoufonyx]

1. Yes if there is movement in the joint or they can hear any noise when spinning the wheel

2. Doubtful

3. Only if poor performance

4. No

5. Yes

6. No

pretty much summed it up, with number 1 is sounds like it may be wheel bearings absalutely nackerd?

number 5, the speedo shouldn't be a problem, but you do have to have thew flashing directional things on the dash.

[yorkshirechris]

Well the DIY Dash can be taken out before the MOT so that's not a problem.

So basically just the Knocking/Clunking to sort out, is it CV joints or bearings?

[nurseholliday]

Only thing I'm qualified to answer on is speedo.

The way I sit when I drive, and my height, and my lowering bracket means that the steering wheel obscures the speedo almost entirely for everyone who sits in my car apart from me. Which means that unless the MOT tester sat exactly how I do, and he is the same height, then he wouldn't have been able to see the speedo, but my Mini didn't fail for that so I guess the speedo isn't a fail.

[panelbeaterpeter]

If there is noise from the CV joints and they need replacing, it will be a fail if they spot it. If you're lucky it could be an advisory.

[yorkshirechris]

If there is noise from the CV joints and they need replacing, it will be a fail if they spot it. If you're lucky it could be an advisory.

Mmmm I wonder if I could sweet talk the tester and tell him I already have the parts on order to get it sorted... and I'd appreciate an advisory so I don't have to have a re-test

[panelbeaterpeter]

Hmm possibly, but it would be best not to mention it IMO.

[yorkshirechris]

Alright

What's a reasonable price to get 2 CV joints supplied and fitted?

[blue redtop]

ive never hearsed of a can failing its mot on clicky cv joints.ive had loads of cars pass with them clicking.

as long as the gaiters arnt split the cv joints should pass with flying colours.

[panelbeaterpeter]

Alright

What's a reasonable price to get 2 CV joints supplied and fitted?

Probs around £100.

[yorkshirechris]

For both?

[Shifty]

Right, here's a list of things which I think MIGHT fail my MOT. Can I have an informed opinion on if I'm right or not please? The MOT isn't due till Feb 23rd, but I'm worried that if it's going to cost me hundreds of £ then I'll start saving up now.

So are these things an MOT fail?

1. When I put full lock on (either way) and set off, or accelerate, there's a clicking/clunking/knocking coming from the front wheel arch at both sides. It gets faster the faster I go. I've been told this is the CV joints that need replacing. Is this true, if so, are they an MOT fail? If it isn't true, what could it be and is it an MOT fail?

2. Right hand side front wheel catches slightly on the front of the arch when on full lock and the weight is on the front (i.e. braking). It's only noticable if you actually drive the car, I think if they have it on a 'flat' level and turn the wheel it shouldn't catch. Failure? Very trivial I know.

3. One of the rear brakes squeaks, but it's only usually when it's cold, and only usually when the weight is on the back, i.e. braking when reversing around a corner with the weight on that side... not sure exactly what it is, it's drums on the back, failure?

4. Rear screen de-mister doesn't work great... only one bar works!

5. I have a DIY dash inside and I've been told that it's an MOT fail because there isn't holes so you can see the indicator lights flashing when they're on? Also because of the same ill-fitting dash I can't see exactly what speed I'm doing if it's between 30 and 70 unless I duck down slightly (basically, you can't see the numbers 40 50 60 at normal driving position).

6. Wipers only work when flicked to the 2nd position, and don't park when you flick the stalk back. But they WORK, isn't that the main thing? (I've got a new stalk coming tomorrow but if that doesn't solve the problem, will it fail the MOT? the wiper motor and park switch are both brand new by the way).

Apart from those niggling things I can't see (bearing in mind I'm no mechanic) why they'd fail him. The floors are solid and have been hammerited inside and out - and waxoyled on the outside. The rear subframe has had a patch welded on, but the guy who did it assured me it will pass, it's a seam-weld, and has been undersealed, hammerited and waxoyled over. All the electrics are fine apart from the bits mentioned - the fog lights, hazards, indicators, brakes, sidelights, headlights, full beam, dash lights, interior light, etc all work fine. Boot floor is fine. The only other things I am worried about are stuff like ball joints, radius arms etc but I guess I'll just have to wait and see what they say about them because I don't have any jacks or tools to test or replace those bits.

Thanks...

Chris

Hi Chris.

1 /As someone else have said a noisey CV WON'T FAIL a ticket


2/ Wheel catching on arch will, if the tester notices paint missing on the arch or signs of rubbing he should investigate further, however(and I don't condone this!!)If all evidence was removed prior to test it may slip through. The main problem may be with your Tie Rods? an easy enough fix.

3/ If the rear brake shows signs of dragging when the tester spins up the drum, that could be a fail/advise

4/ Not a fail!!!

5/ Speedo being obscured shouldn't be an issue, however having no indicator light warning lamps is!!

6/ I don't think this is a fail, however again it may depend on the tester and it may get an advise.


I hope this helps

Sean

i

[yorkshirechris]

Sean,

It only rubs on very full lock, usually just when the weight is on that side i.e. braking. After doing a few thousand miles on brand new tyres (so very thick tread depth) you can't even notice that theres been any wear on the outer edge of the tyre. However, the plastic arch has rubbed through slightly where the tyre hits it.

They're the same wheels and tyres as were on the last MOT (at least I trust the guy who sold me it that they are, he was a honest person) and they didn't even give an advisory on it.

It's not a problem with the tie bars or bushes because they've all been replaced and it's still a problem.

In the long term I plan to get hi-lo's on the front and I'll get them set to a slightly higher ride height which will overcome this rubbing.

Also I do have indicator light warning lamps, and they work, but I just can't see them because of the dashboard!