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Engine Stalled


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#1 mmr

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Posted 21 December 2007 - 08:03 PM

I've gone through a lot of headache and research before decided to upgrade my 998cc engine to a used 1.3 A+ recently. Since the engine has been strip I decided to do some tweaking and add some perfomance parts. Below some items added/done :

1. Kent Cam MD286
2. Lighten flywheel and back plate
3. Duplex timing chain (non adjustable)
4. 3.44 final drive
5. Modified roller tip rocker (don't use spring)
6. 1275 GT head. Port and polished.
7. Change the subframe
8. Change all the bushes.
9. Change swivel arm
10. Install Hi-Los front and rear
11. Change rubber cone
12. Install HWL perfomance absorber
13. Renew LCB exhaust

I did not change the piston as it still looks good. Cylinder also standard and smooth. I just change the piston ring. Carburator still standard and my 1.25 Twin SU rebuilt still on going.

Here what happen after my first test 20km drive out. I maintain not more that 70kmph

1. The engine rather jerky and lumpy when slow. I believe that is chracteristic of KC 286 cam. (286 rev is 2000 - 7500)
2. Engine don't like to idle and it will die so I have to play a lot with the acclerator and clutch. I guess timing need to be higher.
3. Engine easy to start
4. Engine temperature is good. Not more than half of the temperature gauge although I was stuck in a traffic for a while.
5. Car will pull to the left when I lift the accelerator when cruising at higher speed. I guess it is due to I did not fix an engine steadier.
6. Suspension is solid

Now come to the horrible part.

When I slow down at tol gate suddenly my engine rev so high. I guess maximum. My accelerator pedal not functioning. Floored. I quickly turn off the engine. White smoke came out slightly from the rocker cover. I discover that the carb spring that control the rev is missing. My mechanic brought the spring and fix it. Engine start ok but on the way back to workshop it stalled. Got to be towed to workshop. Engine had to be striped again and to my horror, one of the con rod gone black. Con rod bearing out. My mechanic says it is due to the oil pump is non high compression that cause the problem. Don't you think that breather suppose to manage the over compression issue? I'm puzzled. Can it be that bad due to the just oil pump? Is it because he did not fit the cam and crank properly?

Now the engine has to be rebuilt. The crank has to be machined. New piston ring I guess. New HC oil pump. New con rod bearing. Not to mention need new gasket. Although 286 cam give good torque but I don't think I can't use aircond with it. My mechanic standard stage 3 cam. Anybody know how this cam perform? There is marking Stage 3 on the cam.

Well guys, I hope you can give your opinion and advise. I have thrown so much money already in my Mini and feels frustrated. Appreciate your advise.

Edited by mmr, 21 December 2007 - 08:27 PM.


#2 mk1leg

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Posted 21 December 2007 - 08:14 PM

all ways when you rebuild an engine always oil bearings as you build it up and when turning engine over for first time disconect coil and remove plugs and turn engine over and you will here when oil has been pumped allthe way round as engine noise changes reconnect coil and plugs and try to start engine and listen to motor for odd noises..................good luck.......................... :P

Edited by mk1leg, 21 December 2007 - 09:43 PM.





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