25 replies to this topic

[Teapot]

Me too would like to know the definitive answer. We've got a queue here, Mr Expert.

[wolfys_mini]

in my mind its too much paint around that area.

so surely all you need to do is to take it bck t metal, sealer inbetween the gap, prime and then paint on top. but not too much paint.

[rsk289]

i'd like to know how to remedy this, too!

The paint on the seams under reggie's headlights has split

Both sides need to be taken back to bare metal, and the seam should be sealed with a good quality PU sealer such as Sikkaflex. The sealer can be left low to preserve the seam, then primed. It should not be filled with bodyfiller. It shouldn't crack like that again. But it must be clean, bare metal underneath. There is, unfortunately, no substitute for preparation!

Roger

[Teapot]

Brilliant, Roger, thanks. I've copied this to me little notebook

Edited by Teapot, 08 January 2008 - 08:45 PM.

[panelbeaterpeter]

Evening! Right this area is a complete pain on just about all minis! it was never sealed on any minis apart from I believe the very first ones made. (correct me if I'm wrong anybody) I always have always sealed it, as it's an obvious rust trap, but it's always cracked, even when you do it properly, eg; prime it, apply wet on wet seam sealer and then paint it.
It's body flex that cracks it, not bad quality workmanship, although it's obvious that it's highly unprofessional to fill the gap with body filler as opposed to sealer, as it has virtually no flex. Also, if it's original it will be welded, but spot welded lower down, where the leading edge of the wing joins the scuttle.

For appearances, it looks best without sealant if it's a neat panel join, but if you want to keep rust at bay, it's best sealed and just live with the crack! After all if the correct sealer has been used, the sealer itself won't have cracked, just the paint. On mine, I very carefully dropped paint into the crack, to seal it and it's worked so far! In future I'll probably seal it, but push the sealer lower down the join, so when it cracks it's not visible.

Edited by panelbeaterpeter, 08 January 2008 - 09:20 PM.

[Senile Old Git]

This seems an issue that is affecting many people.


I do have the same problem personally, what it the best method to remove this seam sealer once it has stated to crack and deteriorate?

[rsk289]

This seems an issue that is affecting many people.


I do have the same problem personally, what it the best method to remove this seam sealer once it has stated to crack and deteriorate?

The seam sealer remains stiff but flexible. If it's a good quality PU, it shouldn't come unstuck easily - that's why I apply it to bare metal before priming, so the paint can't form a weak link and crack. Removing PU is a serious pain - it sticks extremely well!
You need a paint factors to buy it - it comes in mastic-gun type tubes, or 'sausages' for air guns. Unfortunately it's difficult to seal for re-use once a tube is started, but I always have a tube on the go in the workshop as it has a thousand and one household uses! Stick two bits of metal together with it, and see if you can get them apart a week later....

Roger

[WiredbyWilson]

to my knowledge theses panels gaps shouldn't be filled? i remember seeing something in miniworld about it a while back. but when i rebuilt my mini i had to replace a scuttle end, and made sure the water could run between the scuttle and the wing, thus i have no water trap. all bare metal was painted prior to fitting the wings to seal the metal.

but i think on later minis PU selare or similar was used, and alas there is no way of preventing this flexing and as a result the paint will crack, as pete said a careful bit of touch up is the only solution without removing all sealer and repainting which is costly and time consuming.

[pinch]

this join was only sealed on very early minis. i've had the front end replaced on my mini nearly 4 years ago, and because it was never sealed there, there is no problem of cracked paint. to prevent rust i just squirted a small amount of aerosol Dinitrol Cavity wax in the gap, and so far so good. the paint on the seams under the headlights has cracked a little, but i guess having lowered suspension doesn't help with this, as more vibration is transmitted to the panel joins. some people's front wheels rub on the arches when they turn, and this will cause problems very quickly.

Edited by pinch, 10 January 2008 - 02:14 PM.

[Senile Old Git]

Dragging this back up, I think this sealer cracking in the wing to scuttle joint is really unsightly.

I suppose I am lucky as I can (sort of) spray a car and mine needs to be done again, so I gently cut at the sealer with a stanley knife as close to the metal as I could, then got a thickish dinner knife with a serrations and then gently sawed the sealer away. I then carefully poured thinners on the remaining sealer, this did soften it enough to allow all to be removed.


Added jenolite a few times as rust was beginning to form. Once that process was completed injected primer (dam handy wife is a district nurse) into the joints. Once painted I will follow Pinch's idea about injecting Dinitrol into the gap.

All that took me 2/3 hours a side, but hopefully does a long lasting fix............ Here's hoping!

[SolarB]

when i rebuilt my mini i had to replace a scuttle end, and made sure the water could run between the scuttle and the wing, thus i have no water trap. all bare metal was painted prior to fitting the wings to seal the metal.

Ah ha! I was planning to do this when I replace my front end. Do you get any water and rubbish coming up from underneath?