The front of my Park Lane took a minor front shunt about eight years ago. The handling was fine and it looked... characterful so I left it. Now I may decide to change the wings, I need to straighten the front. Thought I'd stick these photos up in the hope of suggestions on how to put it right, and what the actual damage maybe.
This must be a fairly common problem, especially in town, as really really really nice people in really really really big cars seem to think it's OK to bump a Mini a few times as they park infront/back of it.
You can see that the impact seems to have been greater on the passengers' side. The gap between the bulkhead and front of the engine compartment is shorter by 15mm on that side.
There are uneven gaps between the flitches and the subframe on the left and right.
Drivers' side
Passengers' side
Although the subframe seems (measured it) to be square, scarily the gap between the back of the subframe and the bulkhead is not parallel. Could this just be the mounts?
Have you been here before? Ahhh...
Front Shunt
Started by
Pepys
, Feb 19 2008 05:50 PM
6 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 19 February 2008 - 05:50 PM
#2
Posted 19 February 2008 - 08:28 PM
Seems like you've had quite a shunt, the front could be pulled back out, if the subframe mounts were loosened prior, it "should" move back into place when pulled if that's what's causing it. Saying that, if the front end is rusty, then it'd make more sense just to replace it.
#3
Posted 20 February 2008 - 05:37 PM
Thanks for the reply. Do you think it would be better all round to take the front off anyway? There isn't much rust but I think the scuttle's going to need to be replaced. Cheers.
#4
Posted 20 February 2008 - 06:08 PM
It all depends how much money and time you've got. It would definitely be a better job to replace the front, plus you'd have to if you were replacing the scuttle anyway.
#5
Posted 21 February 2008 - 10:46 AM
I bought a mini a few years ago with similar damage, have you lifted the carpets and checked the lower bulkhead/floor pan where the subframe mounts? As mine had bowed in and tucked the subframe under slightly, causing the same misalignment across the back of the subframe.
All i did was remove the subframe and belt the floor pan with a sledgehammer and a block of wood until it was straight, all lined up a treat when i put the subframe back.
For the extra money it is well worth replacing the front panel.
All i did was remove the subframe and belt the floor pan with a sledgehammer and a block of wood until it was straight, all lined up a treat when i put the subframe back.
For the extra money it is well worth replacing the front panel.
#6
Posted 21 February 2008 - 02:27 PM
Thanks for the replies...
I've been looking for a good reason to replace the front, the problem is that I Waxoyled it so there is no rust. There is rust right in the centre of the scuttle which, added to the squiffy front, adds up to a good reason for a new front.
I haven't had a look at the floor, but will do. What do you do, get the subframes square and then take the front off? I thought I might check with the plumb line method suggested in the Haynes manuals. If you get the sub frames right does it follow that the shell is good? There's never been any funny gaps with the doors or bonnet. Cheers...
By the way, had a quick gecko at your project for your sister Pete... she's a lucky girl!
I've been looking for a good reason to replace the front, the problem is that I Waxoyled it so there is no rust. There is rust right in the centre of the scuttle which, added to the squiffy front, adds up to a good reason for a new front.
I haven't had a look at the floor, but will do. What do you do, get the subframes square and then take the front off? I thought I might check with the plumb line method suggested in the Haynes manuals. If you get the sub frames right does it follow that the shell is good? There's never been any funny gaps with the doors or bonnet. Cheers...
By the way, had a quick gecko at your project for your sister Pete... she's a lucky girl!
Edited by Pepys, 21 February 2008 - 05:28 PM.
#7
Posted 17 March 2012 - 07:52 PM
Hi Pepys, got your message. Looks like you,ve had a bit of good advice already. My current project has also had a front end bump at some time in the past, as I found the front had all been replaced previously but the toe board was still bent on the left. I would say you are really gonna be better off replacing the front panel and wings anyway. You will need to either straighten out the passengers side inner wing, replace the half inner wing (radiator vents part) or replace the whole inner wing. Also the most important bit is to check the toe board is straight. I removed my subframe, put a large block of wood (e.g 6" X 6" square) on the out side of the toe board and hit from the inside. You'll need to give it some good hard hits to straighten it though as its thick metal. Keep trying subframe untill it fits/aligns easily. Check rear of subframe hasn't bent either. The method in the Haynes manual would also be good as an additional check. If the door gaps are still ok then I would say the shell is ok. Hope that helps a bit.
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