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Electrophoretic Coating Remove Or Not?


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#1 v21ash

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Posted 20 February 2008 - 03:00 PM

I have searched this and other forums and the internet and all I have come up with is conflicting answers so I am still non the wiser. :)

I am almost ready to start lining my panels up ready for welding and was wondering about the electrophoretic coating on the panels, do I remove it and start with bare metal then use an etch primer etc? Or do I leave it and prime over the top of it? On all of the joints that are to be spot welding I am going to take them back to bare metal and coat with weld thru zinc primer regardless.

Can anybody tell me which way to go, what are the pro’s and con’s of removing the electrophoretic coating? Does etch primer or zinc rich primer have better corrosion properties than the electrophoretic coating? What would a professional bodyshop do?

Some people say remove it, some say leave it, but no-one gives a reason for removing it or leaving it. :o

#2 GreaseMonkey

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Posted 20 February 2008 - 03:03 PM

I dont think you have to remove the e coating on the panel if it is a heritage panel because they coat it with the proper stuff, if it is heritage you only need to remove it where you are going to weld it but if it is a non genuine panel i would advise that you remove it all and put it in primer.

#3 v21ash

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Posted 20 February 2008 - 03:18 PM

Thanks, yes all panels are either genuine rover or heritage (wouldn't dream of using anything else), it does look to be good stuff as it takes some getting off, even with a DA air sander. :) Better than i've seen in the past on non gen panels.

#4 panelbeaterpeter

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Posted 20 February 2008 - 06:12 PM

No need to take it off. Abrade it with red scotchbrite, or if there are bits of cr@p in it, give it a quick 500. Etch prime any bare areas where you may have gone through, then ideally you would prime it, flat it and topcoat it. I usually use wet on wet, which is basically a primer which doesn't need rubbing down in order for the topcoat to adhere. Saves lots of time, just nib out any bits of cr@p that might have landed in it, and away you go. This is only available in 2k to be applied with a gun in a booth environment, not for home use really.




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